DTC: C1155 Speed Wheel Sensor LF Input Circuit Failure

Ornery · May 10, 2013

ABS light has gone from intermittent to always on. Paid $16.00 to pull the code: "C1155 Speed Wheel Sensor LF Input Circuit Failure"

I'll check ohm reading of the sensor this evening, though at the moment I don't know what it should read. I did read that spinning the wheel with the meter on it, should show a change, so I'll try that. Also, read about checking voltage going through the sensor with wheel still (5-12V) and in motion. Merely looking for different voltage in each case. I'll clean the connections of course. The mechanic who pulled the code, said it would reset when driving twelve MPH after correct repair was done.

Or, do I just throw a $180.00 hub assembly at it and call it a day? Since I'm flippin' broke, I'd prefer to verify that assembly is really needed, first. The truck was purchased used about 3,000 miles ago, and has 88K on it now.

polizi212 · May 10, 2013

Ornery, I would just give rockauto a call and order the new wheel speed sensor its only about 100.00.!!! but on the other side you could buy a new hub assembly then you have a spare!

Ornery · May 10, 2013

$$$$$$$$$$

That's what I'm afraid of. Just spoke with our engineers here. Wondering if that sending unit was a simple proximity switch or something. $100.00 is too much for it either way. I figured I could change out the cable to it, if it was just a broken wire or something.

The one engineer said his older Ford truck had a bearing causing the same problem. Had no slop in it that could be detected, but groaned when turning. I have no slop in mine, and hear no noise, but haven't listened too carefully, 'cause I never get to drive it!

So basically, if that cable's ohms and voltages are the same as the right side, I might as well buy the hub, eh? I'm leaning toward the $175.00 Timken or Motorcraft if it comes to that.

Ornery · May 11, 2013

Might Be Fixed

It was raining yesterday, with no room in the garage, so I couldn't have at it till this morning. Thought I'd start by "cleaning the sensor". Yep, I figured I'd just crawl under there, follow the cable to the sensor, unbolt it, pull it out, clean it and slap it back in. Yeah right! Those of you who have tackled this already know it ain't going down that easy. It's flippin' buried behind the caliper, which I wasn't inclined to pull apart just on a hunch. Even getting that out of the way is no guarantee I'd be able to free the sensor.

So, I decided to ohm it. Followed the cable to the connector next to the battery. Pulled that apart and noticed the dreaded green powdery residue on the pins. Broke out my Caig DeoxIT®, #D100L-2DB and coated the pins and female connectors. Plugged and unplugged it several times and buttoned it up. Started the truck and no ABS light. Drove around the block and parked it.

I would feel more confident the problem is solved, if it weren't for the answer to the question I then asked my wife, "Was the ABS light on last night when you drove the truck?" Her answer was, "Um, it was on yesterday sometime, but I don't know if it was on last night."

Ugh. Last time I drove it, the light was on from startup to shutdown, with several errands in between. So, at this point I feel about 70% sure it's fixed. For now, I'm holding my breath...

polizi212 · May 12, 2013

Chances are good you got that issue resolved with a good cleaning. Yes getting to that sensor on the hub is a PITA to say the least.

Ornery · May 14, 2013

Apparently Fixed

Been a few days and ABS light has not even flickered. Normally would have seen it a few times by now. So, I'm 99% sure that poor connection was the culprit.

Thanks for the input Polizi.

I had a couple links to very nicely priced hub assemblies for folks who aren't as lucky. Unfortunately, their is a policy of not allowing links to Amazon, Ebay or Craigslist sales that aren't owned by Elite members. So, all I can say is, search Ebay for the title "MOTORCRAFT HUB-67 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assy" where you can snag a true Motocraft hub assembly for $165.03, no tax and free shipping.

I'd appreciate any future links to a fair priced scanner that can read these ABS codes. The ones available at the moment are a little too pricey, but things change over time.

Happy Motoring!

polizi212 · May 14, 2013

I too would like a low cost abs scan tool all I have is a OBD II scan tool with no ABS. But I do have a local Autozone that has the ABS tool so at least I have some access to one. That price you found on that hub is a great price I may just buy one for a spare!

Ornery · May 17, 2013

Sonuvabitc...!

Argh, wife just called and told me the ABS and Wrench Icon flashed on for about fifteen seconds. First time it's come on in a week. I told her to let me know if it EVER came on again. I certainly thought this was over.

So, some folks have said Autozone may be able to scan this. Will there be a code if the light isn't on? Can they read a "Pending" ABS code? Would the old code have cleared itself by now? It's been driven daily at least three miles in each direction since cleaning the connection.

I'll try Autozone first, then back to our trusted mechanic if they can't pull anything. Suggestions welcome!

Edit: Just spoke with an Autozone associate, who said the ABS light would have to be constant on to pull the code. I'll call our mechanic tomorrow to see if his equipment can do better...

Fire488 · June 11, 2013

Same boat I'm in, but mine only comes on in the rain. Both front hub assemblies were replaced(easy job by the way) and the problem started about 4 months into the new hubs. The connectors look clean to me with no oxidation at all.The light has been on for 5 days straight now and I am hoping that a code can be pulled. I'll keep you informed.

Explorer_PL · June 11, 2013

I had the same issue, it ended up being the harness going from the hub up to the engine compartment. Me being lazy, when I was replacing one of the hubs, left the old wire in. Luckily, I had the new one still in the garage. It was also internment. When I stuck my hand there and wiggled it, it would set the light on.

Ornery · July 25, 2013

Light is coming on intermittently again. It will be off for a week, then come back on for a day. Finally came on for my wife this evening on the way home from work. Told her to head straight to AutoZone and leave it running. Pulled code: C1155 again.

Started the truck and had my wife watch the light while I manipulated the cable from one end to the other. Light never flickered. I figured it may need to have the wheel spin for the computer to verify it's working. Told my wife to drive around the block and see if the light turns off. She didn't even get out the drive when it went out.

I'm curious how that cable is connected inside the sensor jacket. Is it soldered, crimped or what? I bet that's where the problem is. If I cut that cable an inch or so from the sensor, and replaced it all the way up to the connector under the hood, I could still be missing that connection right at the sensor. I ain't coughing up $175.00 if I don't have to. If the light comes on again, I'll start pulling things apart. There will be pictures if I get to the bottom of this.

Ornery · July 26, 2013

Looks Like I'm Buying A Hub

Thought I found the problem when I used more Caig DeoxIT in the female connector by the battery:

After finding that goop, I just knew I nailed it. Jumped in the truck to drive around the block and watch the light go off... Never went off!

Pulled off the caliper and bracket. When I tried removing the sensor...

Guess I'll be replacing the stinkin' hub. But, how do you get this damn nut off?

At least I have company:

He usually puts his ball in a bucket, but this will do instead:

Turdle · July 26, 2013

I love the setup to, and the last picture!

Someone is tired of all this nonsense. Throw the ball !!

Ornery · July 26, 2013

Hah, our furry son. Takes me twice as long to do anything, because I'm constantly tossing the ball. Don't mind a bit!

I think I figured out how to get that nut off. I'll have at it while it's still on the ground. Still won't be easy, but that's got to be the way to do it without hurting the half shaft. There's usually visible threads beyond that nut, right? Whew, that is really in rough shape. Bad enough I have to cough up the money for the hub. Don't want to have to replace the shaft on top of it! And, I'm just doing the left side for now. Got a wedding for my oldest son this August, and we are seriously BROKE! Really bad time for this issue. I'm tempted to let it slide, but I figure if we're going to do it at all, might as well be now. Anybody have a HUB-67 coupon?

Explorer_PL · July 27, 2013

Whoa -

where is the axle nut again ?

I guess you deal with a lot of road salt ?

Ornery · July 27, 2013

Just pulled the wheel off to check size of existing nut, which is 1.212" (30.78mm?) across flats. New Ford #W705967S439X, I just picked up, is 1.234" (31.34mm?). So, it is quite corroded, but was a ******* size from the start. Well, I guess 1-1/4" is right, but that's a little sloppy. Anybody else a little annoyed that you need both SAE and Metric wrenches on hand to do even the simplest jobs?

Explorer_PL · July 27, 2013

If I recall correctly, when I did my bearings front and back, the front nut was 32 mm, and the rear was 35 mm.

Ornery · July 27, 2013

That's close, 1.26". 1.25" is still .016" larger than even a new nut. Not nearly enough to round it over with a 6-point socket. Just hoping the fine threads stay intact during removal. I'll heat it, quench it with PB Blaster, then heat it as close to cherry red as my little MAPP gas torch can get. Squirt more PB Blaster on it and break it loose with an impact wrench. Soon as it's loose, I'm using a ratchet wrench with lots of oil. Holding my breath and crossing my fingers.

Then, I still have to deal with the three hub bolts and bust it out of the knuckle bore. I don't mind the challenge, but the spending is painful. Paying a dealer to do this would actually cause me physical illness!

Explorer_PL · July 27, 2013

The dealer would say you need new half shaft and the hub and 7 hours of labor = about $ 1,300

Ornery · July 27, 2013

I just offered a fellow on "Bonanza" $158.00 and free shipping for a Hub-67 (4L2Z-1104-AA). Not an absurd offer, because it was available for that price on Ebay in February this year. He only wants $171.00 and free shipping now, but I'm a little leery of unknown sellers. The guy is in Ohio, so I hope I can skate on the tax.

What happens now?

Congratulations, x.. has been notified about your offer. After reviewing it, they will accept it, send you a counter offer, or deny your offer.

Sellers usually respond to offers within 1-2 days. If you want to follow up on your offer, visit your My Bonanza page and select Open Negotiations under My Buying Activity.

If you have any questions, contact us at support@bonanza.com and we'd be glad to help.

Never dealt with them before, but I'll give it a shot. That would save me twenty bucks over the best Ebay prices.

Edit: Holy crap, he accepted it, and deal is done! Whoopy!

DTC: C1155 Speed Wheel Sensor LF Input Circuit Failure

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