2002 Explorer Power Window Problems

[cevers1]

All of the power windows in my 02 XLS stopped working the other day. It's a good thing that they are all in the "up" position, but I cannot control them from the driver door switch, or any individual door switch. I tried them several times with the window lockout switch on and off, nothing works. I looked through the manual a few times, and Power Windows are not listed anywhere in the fuse charts. My friend is a tech at Carmax and he told me to check fuse 6 (60amp) under the hood, but that fuse was fine.

Does anyone know if there's another fuse anywhere else (maybe in the interior fuse block)? Anyone else had this problem?


Thanks in advance.
Chris

 

[daprez1963]

Had the same problem but it only affected one window...took it in and they found that the MASTER SWITCH on the drivers door was bad and it cost $130 for part and labor.

 

[rrgone]

Check fuse #17 in the central junction box (under the dash on the driver's side).

 

[cevers1]

Checked fuses-all okay

Pulled off driver side window switches- tested Blue/black wire (+) and used chassis for ground and got 12 volts.

Checked same blue/black wire (+) and used black wire (-) on back of window switch for ground and got 0 volts.

Open ground wire suspected...checked driver side door wiring grommet, found that black wire was pinched/ cut. Soldered wire back together, problem solved!

Thanks for the help with the fuses.

 

[xchris]

I've got the same problem but...

Using this thread as a guide, I pulled the switch and tested across the blue/black wire and a known good chassis ground and got 0 volts. That means I'm not getting power as far as the switch, right? So there's got to be a fuse or breaker upstream that's bad, right? BTW the two fuses mentioned here look fine.

Need help guys

 

[rrgone]

I've got the same problem but...

Using this thread as a guide, I pulled the switch and tested across the blue/black wire and a known good chassis ground and got 0 volts. That means I'm not getting power as far as the switch, right? So there's got to be a fuse or breaker upstream that's bad, right? BTW the two fuses mentioned here look fine.

Need help guys

Power to the main window switch routes thru the accessories delay relay. Look in your Owners Guide for fuses for that relay. It varies with build date for the '02 models. Mine shows fuse #6 (60a) with an additional 30a circuit breaker in location 62 in the junction box under the hood, and fuse #17 (15a) in the junction box under the dash.

You need to test for power at the main window switch on the lt blue/blk wire with the key in the on position. Otherwise the acc delay relay may be open if the truck has been off for a few minutes. If still no power at main window switch and all fuses are good you could have a bad acc delay relay (but other things like puddle lamps would also be out) (EDIT uddle lamps are powered thru Battery Saver Relay not Acc Delay Relay), or the lt blue/blk wire could be broken which most likely is in the boot between the door and door jam.

Good luck. Let us know what you find out.

 

[cproko_1]

I'm having this problem with the front passanger side door. The driver side switch has been the only one working for about a month and now its gone. When I took the door panel off of the passenger side and hit the down control for the windo I can hear a slight click. Does this sound like the motor or a possible pinched wire? Any help is appreciated.

 

[dfehrmann]

ok. I had the same problem and all off the windows stopped working. None of the switches worked. I pulled fuse #17 and #6. Both were good. Upon replacing the fuses....the windows now work! Did something get reset? Is this a temporary fix?

 

[bluev8]

Try checking the main power cable inside rubber gland, between body and door,drivers side.next to door hinges. I had same problem, wire had broken, quick and cheap repair.

 

[dfehrmann]

Thannks. That's what happend. The ground and power wire was kinked and broken.

After I pulled the fuses out, I had the drivers' side door wide open. This must have reconnected the broken wires, allowing the circuit to close.

 

[jerlin]

This is my first post. I tried to research previous posts, but did not find a question similar to mine. My apologies if there is a duplicate. I had replaced the switch on the driver's window of my 2002 XLT about 2 months ago. Recently the window went down and would not come up. When activating the switch, the motor would click and get hot. Replaced the switch and the window works fine. Could there be a problem with the motor that caused the new switch to fail so quickly, or could it have just been a bad switch? A friend suggested measuring amps of the motor in line with the circuit breaker or fuse for the motor to determine if there is an unusual load on the motor. My question is this. What should be a normal amp reading for the motor?

 

[snickstx]

I need some help testing my master switch. My drivers rear window won't roll down from the door switch or master switch. All other windows work fine. I've swaped the rear door switches and still not working so door switch isn't the problem. I did have problems with the master switch years ago but it was fixed under warranty. If somone can relay the basic steps to test at the master switch and at the rear door harness with a multimeter I would greatly appreciate it. I'd like to make sure it is the master switch before I spend the money for a replacement.

 

[BigRondo]

I need some help testing my master switch. My drivers rear window won't roll down from the door switch or master switch. All other windows work fine. I've swaped the rear door switches and still not working so door switch isn't the problem. I did have problems with the master switch years ago but it was fixed under warranty. If somone can relay the basic steps to test at the master switch and at the rear door harness with a multimeter I would greatly appreciate it. I'd like to make sure it is the master switch before I spend the money for a replacement.

Here is a great link for testing the windows, thanks to theofam for this great link

http://www.scribd.com/doc/14896086/2002-Explorer-Power-Window-System-Diagnosis

It's for the '02 but should help you out. it's kind of long. I downloaded it so I will always have it on hand.

Hope this helps out.

 

[snickstx]

Thank you very much and to theofam for a wonderful resource. Now I've just got to dig out my multimeter.

 

[BigRondo]

Thank you very much and to theofam for a wonderful resource. Now I've just got to dig out my multimeter.

Have you thought about checking the wires in the boot between the body and the driver's door?

 

[snickstx]

I have pulled back the boots for the front door and the back door and didn't see any obvious breaks. I went ahead and ordered a throw away multimeter for $4 because my good one is in storage. I'm really hoping it's just a bad master switch and not a hidden wiring problem or bad motor. I guess I'll found out sometime next week.

 

[BigRondo]

Keep us posted.

 

[snickstx]

With the help of the alldata above and a chinese multimeter I've found that ckt 316 is open, probably a broken wire. I have pulled back the boots on both doors but can't really see much, nothing obvious. Since this is a common failure point is there a better way to inspect the wires there without pulling panels, or worse, the doors?

Also, can anybody give any direction on the routing of this harness. 316 is to the left (driver's side) rear door. Does it just branch off at the kick plate and travel under the door sill to the b pillar? I haven't added or modded wiring to this truck, yet, so I'm not sure how it would get a break anywhere else but in the doors. I guess it's time to buy a shop manual.

 

[BigRondo]

Yea, it's tough trying to find the broken wires. I don't know how ckt 316 is routed. Taking off the door panels isn't that difficult.

Here is a great thread for removing the door panel, thanks to borland for the awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249253

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

Hope this helps.

 

[DavetheExplorer]

Checked fuses-all okay

Pulled off driver side window switches- tested Blue/black wire (+) and used chassis for ground and got 12 volts.

Checked same blue/black wire (+) and used black wire (-) on back of window switch for ground and got 0 volts.

Open ground wire suspected...checked driver side door wiring grommet, found that black wire was pinched/ cut. Soldered wire back together, problem solved!

Thanks for the help with the fuses.

have the exact same problem. I Soldered them back together but now when I try the driver window button I hear a buzz sound and the other doors a bell still no windows work.