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65 mph on up vibration




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my guess would be universals. They can be pretty deceiving, a good test is to watch rpms. hit 60 and shut off the overdrive when it shifts down you shld feel a change in severity if it stays the same its more than likeley not driveline. i had the same prob for weeks and went through everything changed all the ball joints tie rods new shocks all around , had new tires mounted and balanced, an allignment and torsion bars adjusted. i inspected the universals and they seemed good n tight. Little did i know the bearings inside the rear u joint were all chewed up i think it was like a 12 buck fix. but like i said this type of stuff can be tricky. the second time it happened i had a shop tell me my rig was junk and it needed 2000 bucks worth of repairs they said all four of my brand new tires were bad ( my wifes grandfather owns the tire shop so i knew they were full of it ) under two hundred bucks for a new front d-shaft and about ten minutes of wrench time and its smooth sailing. Good luck though brother hope i helped .
 






my guess would be universals. They can be pretty deceiving, a good test is to watch rpms. hit 60 and shut off the overdrive when it shifts down you shld feel a change in severity if it stays the same its more than likeley not driveline. i had the same prob for weeks and went through everything changed all the ball joints tie rods new shocks all around , had new tires mounted and balanced, an allignment and torsion bars adjusted. i inspected the universals and they seemed good n tight. Little did i know the bearings inside the rear u joint were all chewed up i think it was like a 12 buck fix. but like i said this type of stuff can be tricky. the second time it happened i had a shop tell me my rig was junk and it needed 2000 bucks worth of repairs they said all four of my brand new tires were bad ( my wifes grandfather owns the tire shop so i knew they were full of it ) under two hundred bucks for a new front d-shaft and about ten minutes of wrench time and its smooth sailing. Good luck though brother hope i helped . oh yeah i dont know about yours but ball joints in 2nd gens are kinda crappy they will make youre tires hum and pull and jump around on bumps look for leaning wheels or slop in the joints if they r good get an allignment.
 






Just wondering if you ever found a solution for vibration. I have a 2008 Explorer 4X4 w/85k miles. A vibration that starts at 65 ( not there at 60 ) and continues on. It doesn't change pitch with load or unload or moving wheels left to right. New tires did not change, new front wheel bearings per Ford dealer recommendation. New left front CV, no change. Disconnected front driveshaft from transfer case, no change. I noticed what seems quite a bit of slop wiggling the front half shafts where they go into front diff??? Could the bushings be bad and causing vibration at speed. Had to Ford dealer twice, they still don't have a definite ( maybe front diff ) I can[t keep throwing parts at it. Any ideas. Did Captrivers ever find a solution??? thanks for any input
 






Just wondering if you ever found a solution for vibration. I have a 2008 Explorer 4X4 w/85k miles. A vibration that starts at 65 ( not there at 60 ) and continues on. It doesn't change pitch with load or unload or moving wheels left to right. New tires did not change, new front wheel bearings per Ford dealer recommendation. New left front CV, no change. Disconnected front driveshaft from transfer case, no change. I noticed what seems quite a bit of slop wiggling the front half shafts where they go into front diff??? Could the bushings be bad and causing vibration at speed. Had to Ford dealer twice, they still don't have a definite ( maybe front diff ) I can[t keep throwing parts at it. Any ideas. Did Captrivers ever find a solution??? thanks for any input

One guy on here said a new drive shaft fixed his vibration.

Ford has a TSB on the rear differential.

Many have said that wheel bearings have fixed their problem

Captrivers said that there was 3 insulators that solved his problem. Here are the part numbers that he gave us.

Here's the part #'s and prices for the parts, you'll need 2:
http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/...z-4b425-b.html
and 1:
http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/...-4b431-ba.html

This is a confusing thread...one problem...four solutions.
 






Hello, I have been chasing the same problem with my 2000 ranger. Just so everyone knows what does NOT fix the problem here is what I've done so far...
rotate tires, changed tires and wheels, u-joints, brake shoes, brake drums twice, axle bearings, carrier bearings, axle, COMPLETE axle assembly, shocks, rear leaf springs, hangers and shackles, had driveshaft checked for balance. I am going to change the transfer case next, after that I'm done. I am not going to sink anymore time or money in this pit.
 






Rear drive shaft for me... 2005 mountaineer 109k V8 AWD (still can't believe that part is $400 and ford doesn't do anything about it)
 






Hello, I have been chasing the same problem with my 2000 ranger. Just so everyone knows what does NOT fix the problem here is what I've done so far...
rotate tires, changed tires and wheels, u-joints, brake shoes, brake drums twice, axle bearings, carrier bearings, axle, COMPLETE axle assembly, shocks, rear leaf springs, hangers and shackles, had driveshaft checked for balance. I am going to change the transfer case next, after that I'm done. I am not going to sink anymore time or money in this pit.

I have done the same thing and nothing. If i remove my rear driveline its gone. I have replaced my driveline with a new Denny's drive shaft balanced at 7000 rpms. The rear end is rebuilt as well.

the transmission and transfer case was rebuilt a while back. I don't know if the vibration was present before this, as I'm not usually driving it.

my vertical operating angle is 0.5 degrees equal and opposite, have not checked the horizontal angle.

I plan on have the thrust angle zero'd and then measure the center line alignment of the engine and transmission, and measure the offset from center line on both the transfer case output and rear end pinion.

How could it be the transfer case??? If the horizontal angle works out fine, then what????
 






I think I have it narrowed down to the TC as if both drivelines are removed the TC still vibrates and if just front driveline is installed on a road test it does vibrate or is reduced alot. This leads me to believe the chain is the the problem?
 






Mine seems to have gotten better on its own. The vibration is not s bad as it was. I just learned to live with it.
 






Chasing Vibration

I think I have it narrowed down to the TC as if both drivelines are removed the TC still vibrates and if just front driveline is installed on a road test it does vibrate or is reduced alot. This leads me to believe the chain is the the problem?

I too have been chasing a vibration on my 03 Explorer, Mine seems to be a cycling vibration around 60-80 MPH it will begin then gradually increase and then just cut out with a little kick then will be smooth for about a minute or less then will cycle through in the same manner.

You mentioned the "chain" being the culprit, can you elaborate on that.
What Chain are you referring to?
 






I'm new to this game with a recent purchase of an 05 XLT. The roads during the test drive only allowed me to hit 55. All seemed well.
But then, on the way home, hitting the freeway at , 65, I thought the truck was gonna fall apart.
Damn it.

First order was new , proper , tires. Vibration lessened but is still there. I'll have to pay better attention if I feel it in the wheel, my butt, or the body.

I will play with tire pressure just because. I'll probably take it in for an alignment so that between it and the new tires, I have a baseline.

I have no problem with replacing some parts, if needed. As someone else said within these pages, I paid 4k and not 40k- so expect some coinage thrown.

However, What i haven't found out yet from reading ten pages of Search hits regarding vibration, is, At what mileage does this seem to start? Ours has 127k. Thats nothing. I can't believe that these things were like this since new? I'll keep searching.

Peace
 






Another thing to consider is the tires themselves. In my case, they have a Load rating of 106. If the vehicle sits for a bit, they can and do develop flat spots. Might take a few miles to heat em up and make round again. Just sayin.
Another week or so and I'll tear into this thing for a looksie.
 






have noticed in the past......low atf in power steering will cause steering wheel judder/shudder at around 50-70 mph......just an observation
 






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