How to: 98 5.0 AWD Auto to 5spd M5R2 and 4406 M

[Spdrcer34]

For getting air to rear, through the console, I would look at the 1st Gen's rear air duct.

It starts at the center-line of the Explorer, under the dash. It then turns and lies flat against the transmission tunnel in the passenger foot well area. Then as it gets closer to the rear air duct, it turns again. It turns back up to the center line of the vehicle, under the console.

You can see how it starts in this pic...


Ryan

 

[CDW6212R]

Did you keep your truck that way, or use the 95-01 console etc? I liked that air housing, but I wasn't planning to use any console or rear air outlets.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Nice work, Nick! I had always dreamed of this swap, if my 150k+ trans ever craps out and I have the time, I may do this. Nice finish on the wiring harness and pedals, looks like factory!

 

[Nick26]

For getting air to rear, through the console, I would look at the 1st Gen's rear air duct.

It starts at the center-line of the Explorer, under the dash. It then turns and lies flat against the transmission tunnel in the passenger foot well area. Then as it gets closer to the rear air duct, it turns again. It turns back up to the center line of the vehicle, under the console.

You can see how it starts in this pic...

thanks for the tip, as of now I have some 3" dryer tube that I am going to try and make work. If that doesn't work out I will go searching for a 1st gen tube.

 

[Nick26]

Nice work, Nick! I had always dreamed of this swap, if my 150k+ trans ever craps out and I have the time, I may do this. Nice finish on the wiring harness and pedals, looks like factory!

thanks, the wiring harness is just shink wrap and electrical tape.

 

[Nick26]

Just to update, I have put over 1K miles on it now with no problems.

I got rid of all my check engine lights which is good but I kind of have an occasional misfire happening. Tell me if this sounds right to you guys... the guy at Bama chips said nothing needs to be done special for a manual vs automatic to the engine tune, the RPM curve and everything stays the same. The only thing he did special for me was delete the check engine lights that I had on. However I don't really remember this "misfire" like symptom happening before the swap so I was almost wondering if the engine was trying to compensate for shift points or something and that is what the hiccup is. I'm going to try changing the fuel filter next, the fuel pump in this truck did die once but banging on the gas tank brought it back to life so I am wondering if maybe that it's on it's way out now.

Also I haven't got the shift boot done yet because I am going to take the shifter back off to move the knob back and up and inch in both directions so I am not reaching so much.

Attached is a picture of the block plate I got. I am just going to hang on to it in case I ever tear it down again I will put this one in. It looks like it is the right one but I don't know for certain. Apparently I measured 10 3/4" to the center of the top starter bolt hole when i had the tranny off(http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink) and I measured 10 5/8" on the block plate I got in the mail. So I think it was just a quick fuzzy measuring job and they are actually the same. If they were different I think it would be an inch or so different (the 157 tooth flywheel starter hole is kind of more obviously different). Also for what it's worth when I ordered it i checked with the guy about my application like 3 times and he said this would work.

Other then that I just put all new shocks, tie rod ends, and sway bar bushings on it, as we as putting the overload leaf back in my leaf springs. I took it out for flex when this axle was in my V6 truck but now that it's in this one I can feel the springs wrapping up.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Don, I used the WHOLE `97 set-up in my Explorer. But if/when I do a Manual Swap, I will use the 1st Gen Air Duct to feed the rear.

Ryan

 

[moneyguy]

great write up! right now i'm having problems with my AWD Tcase and looking for options. for the misfire, check your plugs. if they're white or there's white residue coming from your exhaust, its running lean. had the same problem on a '96 F150 and it had a bad fuel pump.

 

[derek54401]

95 302 m5od-r2

hey guys, i located a 95 m5-r2 out of a 302 f150. will this tranny work for the swap? it's a really good deal that i dont want to pass up.

 

[Nick26]

hey guys, i located a 95 m5-r2 out of a 302 f150. will this tranny work for the swap? it's a really good deal that i dont want to pass up.

technically it will bolt up but the shifter will practically be under the dashboard and I don't think you can just swap tops to the M5R2 so it pretty much won't work unless you want to fab up you own shift linkage.

 

[Nick26]

By the way i finally finished up my center console with rear air and my shift boot. I still plan to make a video for you guys, but I have to finish my exhaust too.

 

[Nick26]

and installed...

 

[rwenzing]

hey guys, i located a 95 m5-r2 out of a 302 f150. will this tranny work for the swap? it's a really good deal that i dont want to pass up.

technically it will bolt up but the shifter will practically be under the dashboard and I don't think you can just swap tops to the M5R2 so it pretty much won't work unless you want to fab up you own shift linkage.

Other thoughts:

The 96-back 4x4 M5ODR2 is about 1.5" longer overall than the 97~2003 4x4 M5ODR2 (which is roughly the same 28" length as the AWD 4R70W). So, if you have an AWD Ex, the 95 trans would push everything back far enough so that you would almost certainly need to do some work on driveshaft lengths.

If you wanted to do the BW4406 transfer case swap, its shift linkage does not work without modification on the 96-back 4x4 extension housing. Because of the 1.5" added length, you might also run into space problems for the T-case vs fuel tank nose.

I don't know about a 2WD 5.0 Ex with a 95 2WD box but, as Nick pointed out, the shifter position is a big negative even if the rest of the swap could be worked out.

 

[moneyguy]

right now i'm aquiring parts to do a 2wd 5spd swap on my 5.0 awd. so i would need a tranny from a 97-03 4.2 v6 f150? i like where the shifter comes out in yours. its the perfect spot. also, anyone know if the auto 2wd and the 5spd 2wd are the same length?

 

[Nick26]

right now i'm aquiring parts to do a 2wd 5spd swap on my 5.0 awd. so i would need a tranny from a 97-03 4.2 v6 f150? i like where the shifter comes out in yours. its the perfect spot. also, anyone know if the auto 2wd and the 5spd 2wd are the same length?

if your only going 2WD you could probably just get a mustang tranny, like WCT5 or a 3550, and then just modify the cross member appropriately, which will probably have to be done regardless.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Using a Mustang T5 the shifters positions is almost 12" farther back, placing the shifter in sheetmetal of the transmission tunnel. And NOWHERE NEAR the hole and/or cover that Ford put in there from the factory.

Ryan

 

[Nick26]

I wouldn't say no where near... here's a first gen with a T5, granted it's butted up against the cup holders, but it is in the right general area, it would just take some center console modifications:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=825178&postcount=344

 

[Spdrcer34]

There are pictures posted all over the Ranger sites of guys swapping in T5's into their Rangers....

There is 1 alternative that places the shifter in the correct location.

Using a S-10 Tail housing.

A 3550 (or is it the 3650?) has 3 different shifter locations. Using the forward position is the correct spot for the RBV's.

Ryan

 

[moneyguy]

i did think of using a mustang tranny, but the shifter location changed my mind. i like where it comes through the cubby area. almost perfect spot without too much console modifications.

 

[derek54401]

misc clutch parts

which pilot bearing and throwout bearing did you end up using?