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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
If it spins like you said it did, it's shot. Order the kit. Low fluid won't cause it to rotate freely, it would cause it to chatter when cornering.
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It'll show you what you're in for. As I said earlier, I replaced one of the spacers with the best of teh used clutch plates and my LS is almost locker tight.
Edit; BTW, I did it while everything was still in/on the truck.
im going to say that with my 33's and 3.73's together work pretty damn good together. i can still cherp the tires and can still accelerate fast. i dont feel much different then stock. but thats just my two sense. i have had it like this for 8 months or so and its still doin great with the auto trans.. i will eventually regear to 4.56 when i can afford it.
I'll be at my place in Woodinville this weekend, got some manual hubs waiting to go in. Unfortunately I won't get to the ls this weekend.
That's some good information thanks for that. Along the same note, is there an ls rebuild how-to on here anywhere? Or is there really no use for one? Becuase if there isn't one on here, and some people may find it helpful, I may be so inclined to do one when I do my rebuild sometime in the next month.
That link was a 'How To'. That's what I used to guide me.
If you're changing to manual hubs don't tighten the bearing nuts too tight or you'll be replacing them next month. You'll get extra compression when you tighten the lock nut so the inner nut can be only hand tight.
Yea I saw that the link was a how to, just was wondering if it would be worth it to put one on here. But I guess if we just send that link to everyone that works. Thanks for the bonus about the hubs.
Yea I saw that the link was a how to, just was wondering if it would be worth it to put one on here. But I guess if we just send that link to everyone that works. Thanks for the bonus about the hubs.
if you plan on actually using ur 4x4 get manuals. my 4x4 with auto hubs was used twice....then they broke. then i got manuals! they work great and are warrantied for life through warn....i think....atleast mine were. i have 153,x.. miles and my limited slip still works.
I've had my autos for 3 1/2 years and the 4x4 has yet to fail. But they are starting to go as I found out recently when they started to like to slip out. So that's why, as I said in a previous post, I have manuals waiting to go in.
Back to topic, I stopped by Randy's Ring and Pinion today to pick up the rebuild kit for the limited slip. I got what the guy said was the same as the ford part but this one was by yukon. Looking at it, it appears that I got 6 friction disks (so 3 a side) and 8 steel splined disks, no shims. Will no shims cause an issue? Also, when I restack, I hear a good idea for tighter lock would be to use an old friction disk and only put 1 steel disk between each friction disk, also, good idea? Just looking for the details to what stack patterns work best, keeping in mind this is my daily driver as well as roader.
That's exactly what I did, drives wonderful and the LS works as advertised. You'll barely notice a slight 'push' when trying to turn tight at residential speeds.
That's ok, I am doing the rebuild tomorrow as I am only down here till sunday and though it should only take a couple hours I always prefer to leave an extra day in case something unexpected happens. Unless someone warns otherwise I will just do it without any shims. Question on that though, in the link you posted that has the how-to process it mentions a shim then the friction pad steel disk pattern, do you just put a steel disk in place of the first shim? Or leave the friction pad as the first piece?
Limited Slip fully operational. Thanks for your help guys. That S-spring gave more fight on its way out than back in, but that could be because I left it all inside until I had pulled the gears and clutch packs out. Then I realized there was no way I was going to get it all back together without taking it all out. I did re-use the stock shims, stacking from outermost from the gear shim-friction pad-steel disk-old friction pad-steel disk-friction pad-steel disk-friction pad-then the gear. Thanks again (and it is nice and tight)
. Unfortunately I won't get to the ls this weekend.
