Aftermarket 8.8 diff covers | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Aftermarket 8.8 diff covers

I'll try the high heat clear on my transmission pan for my Lincoln, but that won't be much of a test.

The valve covers will see the kind of heat that cooks most paints. I hadn't decided about my VC's yet, two of mine are the FMS Boss 347 polished covers. I figured I might paint one with the same paint of the truck, and see how long that lasts. But I'd rather have a powder coated color that looks close. Jon did my first plain set with a transparent black, I was hoping it would be much lighter. I'll use that set with a 306 I'll build for my 99 Limited. The other of my four projects is another set of FMS polished VC's, Cleveland pieces I'd like to keep with the polished appearance.
 



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What kind of clear sealant is used on aluminum alloy wheels?

Handles brake heat, rock chips, salt and brake dust for years. :dunno:
 






What kind of clear sealant is used on aluminum alloy wheels?

Handles brake heat, rock chips, salt and brake dust for years. :dunno:

That is a powder coat, and I've thought that same thing many times. They manage to get it on, so how do they do it.
 






I use the slightly larger capacity model from G2. It has made changing fluid much easier. I'd advise to still use a full bottle of friction modifier, even if you use a high end rear diff oil (ex: Lucas, royal purple severe gear, etc) that claims to not require any be added. I went without at first and there was some mild vibration during low speed turning, which went away once I added modifier to the new fluid. Also had to slightly cut the metal tab hanging down that locates the spare tire, as it would contact the top of the cover during full compression of the rear suspension.

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I use the slightly larger capacity model from G2. It has made changing fluid much easier. I'd advise to still use a full bottle of friction modifier, even if you use a high end rear diff oil (ex: Lucas, royal purple severe gear, etc) that claims to not require any be added. I went without at first and there was some mild vibration during low speed turning, which went away once I added modifier to the new fluid. Also had to slightly cut the metal tab hanging down that locates the spare tire, as it would contact the top of the cover during full compression of the rear suspension.

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That is a nice cover ! It must have costed 200$.I notice you have the bilstein shocks.Are they a firmer shock then say a rancho ? I have the expensive rancho's on the front with the adjust knob and they are just way to bouncy.


Also where to you buy your limited slip additive/ friction stuff at ? I got it from ford a few years ago for my factory 373 limited slip.I always wondered if it was just snake oil ya know.Like if it was even needed.
 






I used to run the entry level Ranchos as well, and in comparison the Bilsteins are much more well dampened on bigger hits, especially taking into account my larger, heavier aftermarket wheels. Friction modifier is available from your nearest Ford dealer and with my experience after a fluid change I can attest that it is definitely NOT snake oil, and is required for your rear axle to function properly. For the $5 it costs, it will save you replacing your rear diff down the road.

The cover was expensive, but definitely worth it, since the larger fluid capacity and milled cooling fins keep the rear end cooler. During fluid changes now i notice fewer metal particles stuck to the magnet, although that could be due in part to my proper change interval instead of letting it go for 100,000 miles unchanged like I'm sure the previous owner of my truck had done.
 






How many bottles of that friction modifier do i need ? I take it ford could sell me the gear lube to go along with it ? I have no idea what weight and how many quarts and type of lube it takes.
 






You only need one bottle of the friction modifier, and many sources sell it also, like Summit. The Ford diff/grease is really high and no better than the other best brands, $20 or more for a quart of the synthetic. If you need some quick, buy the best they have at your parts store. Summit and Amazon would be good choices if you can wait a couple of days for shipping.

I prefer Amsoil for most fluids, their Severe Gear grease is about the best. It runs $10-$12 a quart based on the three normal velocities. The Explorer calls for the thickest 75-140 synthetic, for the front you can drop to the thinner two depending on how severe the usage is. I like the 75-110 for my fronts. But buying it is a bit slower, they sell by distributors, so you order from them and it usually drop ships from the closest source/dist. It costs about $15 now for a six month membership that expires, and the shipping and taxes end up being over 10% of the order. I buy some about once a year, and the yearly membership is $30 that I renew manually.
 






You only need one bottle of the friction modifier, and many sources sell it also, like Summit. The Ford diff/grease is really high and no better than the other best brands, $20 or more for a quart of the synthetic. If you need some quick, buy the best they have at your parts store. Summit and Amazon would be good choices if you can wait a couple of days for shipping.

I prefer Amsoil for most fluids, their Severe Gear grease is about the best. It runs $10-$12 a quart based on the three normal velocities. The Explorer calls for the thickest 75-140 synthetic, for the front you can drop to the thinner two depending on how severe the usage is. I like the 75-110 for my fronts. But buying it is a bit slower, they sell by distributors, so you order from them and it usually drop ships from the closest source/dist. It costs about $15 now for a six month membership that expires, and the shipping and taxes end up being over 10% of the order. I buy some about once a year, and the yearly membership is $30 that I renew manually.





I have no problem buying from summit.That's where i got my diff cover.How many quarts are required for a diff cover drop ? So if i understand you, 1 bottle of friction modifier and 75-140 synthetic for the rear ?
 






Yes, and it takes about 2.5 quarts for the rear, so you need to have three. Buy a handy pump too if you think of it, they run about $8-10, fit right onto the quart bottles. Those make it much easier to pump the grease in, you only need to get the hose up above the diff, to the fill hole. Put in just enough to make it run out, then put the plug back in.
 






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As far as how much to put in.....mine took 3 qts and still never ran out of the fill hole so I just stopped at 3 qts. Must depend a lot on the diff cover and if it adds volume to the diff.
 






Yes, the stock covers will need about 2 1/2 quarts. There are more aftermarket covers now that are adding capacity.Those will likely be over 3 quarts, and they should have instructions to indicate how much more fluid you would need.
 






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Clear coated in today and its shiny but looks grey now LOL oh well it will do.I did 3 coats of duplicolor high heat ceramic paint
 


















So funny today i was looking under the truck and didin't realize how dam close the diff cover is to the rear sway bar.WOW.I hope i am ok, I maybe should of checked that before i painted it lol.Man oh man.
 






Ya, my sway bar was pretty tight so I took mine off. My rear superlift leafs were stiff already so it didn't make it sway too bad. Now once I took the front off....different story when cornering, but the ifs actually performs better over bumps and dips when going straight. Love your cover though, 98 Merc!
 






So funny today i was looking under the truck and didin't realize how dam close the diff cover is to the rear sway bar.WOW.I hope i am ok, I maybe should of checked that before i painted it lol.Man oh man.

I just unbolted the rear sway bar from where it connects to the rear sway bar links, which allowed me to rotate it up and out of the way to fit the new cover. Once it was bolted on I simply rotated it back down and reconnected it.
 






So funny today i was looking under the truck and didin't realize how dam close the diff cover is to the rear sway bar.WOW.I hope i am ok, I maybe should of checked that before i painted it lol.Man oh man.

I hadn't thought of those being deeper rearward, the sway bar is there not far behind it. Here's a unique view from above, it shows the stock cover and the EE rear bar. There's plenty of room it looks like for most covers.

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Damn....had your body lifted off the frame for that pic. Good time to clean stuff up. I need to do that
 






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