Solved CA Smog was at the limit last time, would disabling overdrive help?

[Fix4Dirt]

The state pays you to get rid of the vehicle? Or do you pay to dispose of it? I’m lost

state pays out to retire old vehicle if it failed smog. payout depends on your income and the car its up to 1.5k i thought depending on factors

 

[EB4X]

/\ $1,500 if you're in low income bracket, $1,000 if you have a decent job.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

/\ $1,500 if you're in low income bracket, $1,000 if you have a decent job.

ok wasnt clear on it since i do know it always says up to 1.5 haha and nowhere near retiring this 2g, so never gave it much thought

 

[fast_dave]

/\ $1,500 if you're in low income bracket, $1,000 if you have a decent job.

Read through all of the eligibility points.

You can only get the $$$ is if the vehicle failed smog AND still has current tags...

That's why right after my Ex failed smog, I rushed to get my claim in for the $1,000 before my tags expired a few weeks later.

My claim was approved literally days before my tags expired.

Think of it this way - If the vehicle doesn't have current tags (meaning it's legal to be driven on the road) the state has no incentive to give you the $1,000 to take it off the road.

 

[fast_dave]

I'm in Far Left Cali too, my registration was due in SEPT ....paid the fee upfront before due date.... ended up getting it smogged in MARCH ! !

In my case, DMV sent me next years registration form, which included a a SMOG requirement at a STAR Station, in order for me to apply for next years tags.

Sequentially, you need to A) pass smog first, and that allows you to B) "pass go" and pay for the registration tags.

If you send money for tags, without first passing SMOG, you don't get next years tags - simple.

I don't understand how one can get around that -but hey, it's the internet

 

[EB4X]

This was the third time over say the last 8 years I paid the "registration fee" FIRST (mailed in/and or paid through AAA) on vehicles (before getting it smogged).... to avoid having to pay the late penalty, knowing that vehicles were borderline smog passable and might have delays passing. (Not saying it's something I tend to do again) The other two times I got vehicles to pass smog within a few weeks (after registration due date) at which point the smog station passed test is instantly transferred to DMV network which then automatically processes my registration / mails out tags to me without any action on my end.
(I never had to get smog first to be allowed to then pay registration fee)
Of course the PLAN is to pass smog and then mail / make registration fee payment.....but "my way" works as well, for when you need just a little more time and don't want to go through extension hassles.. having two vehicles I then use other vehicle as daily until registration is done.

 

[myf16]

I had to replace both the EGR valve and the EGR to Intake Manifold O-ring to eliminate the intake leaks. LT fuel trim is down to 10 or so from 15. Idle is still a little rough.

Update: LT Fuel trim is back to 15 on both banks. So weird. But the new EGR valve works and does not leak, so there's that.

Update 2: You need a crow foot wrench to remove the EGR valve. For some reason the 27 mm size was $8 and the 1-1/16 inch was $13. Same brand on amazon. They are the same size differently marked. Do not attempt removal without this tool.

I used the tip from this other thread: 4.0L Upper EGR Tube O-Ring Is Constantly Leaking
i.e. I added the felpro O-ring next to (above) the existing old seal.

I used another tip by bending the dipstick tube bracket out of the way when I could not pull the tube out. The upper EGR gas tube did not want to go all the way to the left, which made it hard to install and also made installing the EGR valve harder. I dropped the screws 3 times and had 3 fun games of hide and seek before I found the trick. Insert the rear screw with the EGR valve tilted up 45 degrees. Then with that screw in place, manipulate the exhaust tube and rotate the EGR valve to horizontal to install the front screw.

I don't know what else to try before the next smog test in 3 weeks or so if I have time.

 

[myf16]

Update: The smog test failed again with almost exactly the same numbers. Any vacuum leak from the EGR diaphragm must have made no difference. EGR operation reduces NOx, not HC. I will need a CARB-compliant catalytic converter or I will have to sell the car to an out of state buyer. Unless someone here has other ideas. It runs perfectly and I do love it.

 

[EB4X]

THESE TWO will legally work on your 96 (REAR >> and has MAKE OFFER OPTION.... go low and see what happens....free shipping :

MagnaFlow California Grade CARB Compliant Universal Catalytic Converter 334106 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for MagnaFlow California Grade CARB Compliant Universal Catalytic Converter 334106 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

And this one will work on your California Explorer as well:
WLK-80708 Catalytic Converter, CalCat, Universal

**AND TO PUT IN perspective....normally a made to fit CALIF COMPLIANT CAT would easily be $600 - $800 bucks... so getting this Magnaflow for around $200 is a smoking deal...

 

[C420sailor]

Have you tried the California delete mod?

 

[Josh P]

Have you tried the California delete mod?

That works too

 

[EB4X]

P.S. My Explorer wasn't passing due to high NOS...this same Magnaflow brought it down incredibly!...below average...
And on HC's...which as mentioned is your problem, it brought my passing reading even much lower.... got a 12 ! at 15 mph test... max allowed is 60....got a 8 ! at 25 mph....max allowed is 51
After this CAT's warmed up...about 3 minutes....I can kneel down at exhaust and sniff and it's like being behind a new car....before I'd get asphyxiated if I tried that for 20 seconds with old CAT! Makes me feel better when stopped at red lights knowing the people behind me aren't suffocating anymore!

 

[myf16]

I need a cat that's listed for test group TFM4.028G2FK at Aftermarket Catalytic Converter Database

There are several, but nothing with the Part Manufacturer listed as Magnaflow. The Pre-1996 vehicles have a lot more choices for cats.

The Magnaflow website says 80708 is not compatible and instead lists a front at $555 and rear at $520, but I don't see those on the official list. Maybe the official list is incomplete.

I have not educated myself fully on this, but I think there are some "trail of evidence" type requirements that the part needs to ship directly from manufacturer to licensed installer or else it loses its pedigree.

 

[EB4X]

/\ Hmmmmm.... my understanding was that the 96 was the same for this....many things the 95 / 96 share, although yes, the 95 is it's own odd-ball on some things like having OBD1 ....
On other potential issue, I brought mine to seasoned muffler shop, pointed out how part number on box clearly comes up as a CARB legal universal CAT and they installed it no problem.

 

[410Fortune]

Fyi 30 psi is pretty low fuel pressure I would like to see more like 34-36 at idle warm

If it’s too low the injectors cannot atomize the fuel properly

 

[EB4X]

This is the best price I came across for your '96 trolling online:
$370

1996 FORD EXPLORER AP Exhaust 910005 AP Exhaust Universal Catalytic Converters | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - AP Exhaust Universal Catalytic Converters with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Catalytic Converters at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[myf16]

I bought an IR thermometer and measured temps for the cats. Upstream tube was 436, after first cat was 456, entering second cat was about 430 and exiting was about 430. I'm not 100% sure the cats were fully warmed up.

I'm reluctant to change the fuel pump given the time needed, but it's not completely clear that the cats are bad or if so which one of the two I should replace.

 

[myf16]

Success finally!

I found a direct fit CARB compliant converter for less than $500 at rockauto. $555 to my doorstep. AP Eastern 916060.

I paid a local muffler shop $300 for removal and installation. Removal was hampered by rust, including an unusable rear flange, and it took them 3 hours.

Smog numbers now are the lowest I’ve seen on any vehicle.

The old front catalyst was halfway disintegrated. In retrospect it’s surprising I could have come so close to passing without a working catalytic converter.

If you think you might need a CARB compliant converter for your gen2, I advise buying it now. I can hardly believe how cheap this was given that the factory and most resellers are out of stock and given that it incorporates two converters. Magnaflow wants $2000 for this part.

 

[myf16]

I think you have a fuel pressure issue

With my new catalytic converter, the HC numbers are close to zero. However the long term fuel trim is 14 on both banks.

I checked the fuel pressure today and it was 1.7 bar (25 psi), both at moderate rpm and at idle. That's consistent with being short of fuel until the computer adds more.

Do you agree that I should change the fuel pump? I'm really not looking forward to that job. Amy tips?

 

[C420sailor]

Looks like it. How old is the pump?