Solved CA Smog was at the limit last time, would disabling overdrive help?

[fast_dave]

@myf16

My Ex was never dyno Smogged in 17 yrs of ownership.

No roller dyno test for EX's here in the SF Bay Area PRK - tailpipe test 100% (Same as @Fix4Dirt in So Cal).

They're extremely tough up here with SMOG enforcement - where are you in Nor Cal that they're so strict?

Same as you, based on my previous test results, I too knew 2 years before the final test that I was going to fail.

Just sayin' if all else fails - $1,000 for vehicle retirement - had to finally go that route with mine after 215,000 miles.

Sucked to have to go that route BUT the process was extremely easy & payout was quick.

LINK: Consumer Assistance Program

 

[Fix4Dirt]

@myf16

My Ex was never dyno Smogged in 17 yrs of ownership.

No roller dyno test for EX's here in the SF Bay Area PRK - tailpipe test 100% (Same as @Fix4Dirt in So Cal).

They're extremely tough up here with SMOG enforcement - where are you in Nor Cal that they're so strict?

Same as you, based on my previous test results, I too knew 2 years before the final test that I was going to fail.

Just sayin' if all else fails - $1,000 for vehicle retirement - had to finally go that route with mine after 215,000 miles.

Sucked to have to go that route BUT the process was extremely easy & payout was quick.

LINK: Consumer Assistance Program

yep just stick the sniffer in let it isle then its 2500 rpm iirc? but no roller.

 

[C420sailor]

Vehicle retirement? $1000? What?

 

[J_C]

Yeah how does that $1K work? Can I just buy 50x $300 beaters, get them to fail smog, and make $700 on each?

Wait, do they have to pass smog to be registered in the first place? I suppose that's a bit more work but should still be easy enough to then make them fail.

j/k since I'm not in CA, but I found the answer:

Applicant Requirements

You must not have retired another vehicle through CAP as a sole owner OR more than two vehicles as a joint owner within the past 12 months.

Smog Check Requirement

Note:
... The Smog Check failure must not be due solely to an ignition timing adjustment, or a failed gas cap function test, or a tampered emissions control system where the tampered system is the cause for failing the Smog Check inspection.

 

[Josh P]

Vehicle retirement? $1000? What?

It means take it dry with no kiss behind the ear. $1,000 in CA would be $3,000-5,000 in a state with no emissions testing.

 

[C420sailor]

The state pays you to get rid of the vehicle? Or do you pay to dispose of it? I’m lost

 

[Josh P]

The state pays you to get rid of the vehicle? Or do you pay to dispose of it? I’m lost

State pays you

 

[myf16]

I used my new smoke machine today. What a fun tool. Smoke came out of the idle air controller, which is an aftermarket replacement part I installed maybe 5 years ago to fix a rough idle. I have ordered a new IAC to install Sunday.

Smoke was also emerging from the area around the bottom of the EGR valve. I really don't want to try to remove the EGR due to rust. And I'm not sure where the smoke is coming from or if it's enough to be concerned about. Seems to me that the exhaust gas has positive pressure and could never cause a vacuum leak or be a source ot surplus oxygen.

I saw no smoke coming from anywhere else, and with this smoke generator (at about 1 psi) I think I would have.

Advice?

 

[myf16]

For test preparation, I cleaned the MAF, changed the plugs to nickel, and changed the oil. Downstream O2 sensor is fluctuating almost exactly the same as the upstream, so it's either running too rich for the converter to handle or the converter is not working. Long term fuel trim is close to +20 percent, so I suspect it's running rich. Fuel pressure is about 30 psi but steady on the original fuel pump. Vacuum gauge is normal and steady at idle, but the idle is not 100 percent smooth.

I put 22 inch diameter tires on the rear, but it still failed HC at about 1.2 times the very low limits. I discovered after the test that the parking brake had been engaged. Crap. The smog guys didn't blink an eye at 50-series tiny tires on the rear.

I'm officially stupid. The wheels for my tiny tires have hubs that are 2mm too small. No problem, I thought, I just tightened the lug nuts more. Now the wheels won't come off.

Help! What trickery is needed to remove wheels that are smashed onto the slightly too large hubs? I tried rope and a cable puller with at least 500 pounds of force applied. They didn't budge.

 

[Turdle]

Try to get the center hub very cold. The metal will shrink.

Dry ice?

 

[C420sailor]

a 2mm interference fit…ouch

Carefully heat the wheels. Aluminum expands 3x as much as steel—hopefully that’ll give you the clearance you need.

 

[myf16]

Try to get the center hub very cold. The metal will shrink.

Dry ice?

I think I’d have a chance with a liquid nitrogen squirter. Today I will see if a tire shop can put the Ford on a lift and pound the wheels off.

 

[J_C]

Pounding "might" damage the hub bearings.

 

[myf16]

The tire shop succeeded so quickly I could hardly believe it. I tipped them generously. Some jobs are just not DIY.

Tomorrow I will install a new IAC valve and run another smoke test.

Edit: My small wheels were installed on top of aluminum spacers, so the thin inner rim of the spacer gave way to the harder allow of the wheel. Otherwise I never would have been able to get the wheel to mount solidly. I was able to tighten the nuts enough to get the spacer rim only about 3 mm deep into the wheel center. That 3 mm depth provided more than 500 pounds worth of friction. But all's well that ends well.

Edit2: The IAC valve is installed and did not leak any smoke. The EGR leaks a lot of smoke from underneath. Could that alone cause my high long term fuel trim?

 

[3xowner]

Don't live close to an area that does registration renewal without smog? Lots of the eastern area of San diego has it that smog is not required to register, but upon selling it you are still required as the seller to provide smog cert less than 90 days to the buyer. Many counties have areas such as this.

perhaps, another approach is let it fail, then spend the money to replace parts. I believe that if you have enough of a cost in doing such, the then will grant an exception.

A few times I had an evap code, but I reset everything and watched not to get the evap monitor checked by driving on a low tank of gas. So the evap monitor stayed in the incomplete mode as you are allowed one monitor "not ready" or "incomplete"

Just food for thought

 

[myf16]

In a youtube on EGR valve replacement I got a good view of the underside of the valve. It has several holes around the circumference. That's where smoke was coming from, all around. Clearly my EGR diaphragm is broken and is letting unmetered air into the system. I will replace the EGR valve in a month or so when I have time. That should bring my long term fuel trim back down. It looks like I will need a 1-1/16 inch crowfoot wrench but no other special tools. I will report results here in 6 to 8 weeks.

I do love my new smoke machine.

On the other question, it's true that renewal in rural CA counties does not require smog testing every 2 years. I don't have a mailing address in one of those counties. If I did I wonder how the insurance would work. Someday I will probably accept the $1000 to retire the car, but it's rare for a running vehicle to be worth less than $1000. They offered my that for my 1990 LS400 which has only 150k miles on it and runs like a dream. No thanks.

 

[fast_dave]

On the other question, it's true that renewal in rural CA counties does not require smog testing every 2 years. I don't have a mailing address in one of those counties. If I did I wonder how the insurance would work. Someday I will probably accept the $1000 to retire the car, but it's rare for a running vehicle to be worth less than $1000. They offered my that for my 1990 LS400 which has only 150k miles on it and runs like a dream. No thanks.

Sounds like you have a plan w/ the EGR and I hope it all works out for you.

Just sayin' - I'll bring you up to speed in case things don't work out for you as it'll probably be a shock to your system as it's a bit different on how they treat a LS400 VS a Ford Explorer. I know from experience that it was a shock for me...

OK - The Ford Explorer V6's are officially classified as a Gross Polluter in the PRK.

The last couple of years of Smog Test notices I had received all of a sudden had GROSS POLLUTER printed out in bold at the top of the Smog Test Notification paperwork (Despite my Ex passing every smog test). I kept all of the smog tests, and it was easy to see as years rolled by, and the engine wore out, the HC counts elevated incrementally each time my Ex was tested.

After my Ex failed the smog test, and I went to DMV to examine my options, I asked about the Gross Polluter "branding". In short, that means that over the years, DMV has recorded a high incidence of Explorers not only failing smog, but when that occurs despite getting an extension, most of the time they are not able to successfully pass smog.

What that means for you, if that occurs, is the following.

If you fail the smog test and your tags are about to expire, the most you can get is a 30 day extension on your current tags. That is a one-time deal. The days of getting temp tags over and over and dragging it out with the excuse "I can fix it BUT need to keep driving it to work in the meantime" are over.

That's why it's a rarity these days to see a vehicle on the PRK roads with Paper Temp. Registration Sticker in the rear window. They make it tough on you because they want "high emitters" off the road.

If you don't pass smog within 30 days of being issues the Temp Paper Tag, and you're caught driving with out of date tags...

Anyways - that's why I took the $1,000 from the Air Resource Board and put it towards buying a new car.

Hope that helps and good luck!

 

[myf16]

I already paid the renewal fee on time. Does that have any effect? I will be 7 weeks past expiration when I am ready to redo the smog test. I won’t be driving it anywhere except to a smog test.

 

[fast_dave]

^^^ Seriously, that's between you and DMV - I dunno. When you're notified you're EX is due for a smog test, the paperwork sez you need to pass smog first, and only then send in your registration money. The smog shop sends DMV the info electronically the same day you pass, and then DMV then waits for your payment, and mails you your new tags in a couple of days.

Mine had failed smog right before my tags were due to expire in approximately 2 weeks. I talked to DMV about what little options they provided. I saw clearly that they were playing hardball, and that it was going to cost lots of $$$ and time. They want these off the road, and I needed a vehicle to get to work.

Luckily my wife gave the thumbs up to purchase a new car, and I took the $1,000 and put it towards it.

We had a good run - 15 years and 215,000 miles...

 

[EB4X]

I'm in Far Left Cali too, my registration was due in SEPT ....paid the fee upfront before due date.... ended up getting it smogged in MARCH ! ! ...long story...needed CAT etc.... Not a problem for me!
Tell them you'll put a rainbow sticker on the back and they'll give you a 6 month extension ! LOL
Fast Dave...so you have zero 2nd gens now? Say it isn't so!