help phenolic spacer kickin my *ss

[scubajb19]

ok guys i need some expertise here i thought i was gonna do this easy instal and boy was i wrong and now i have my entire engine bay torn apart and have run into problems with this spacer. my first problem is that i cant get the rear long bolt out of the upper manifold, i should be able to do this by disconecting 2 fuel lines, i've just been trying to avoid that. the second problem is that i have an external egr and i dont know what to do about the reach i can tell that it wont reach once this spacer is in place and ofcourse being a steel pipe there is no room for play so what is the fix for this???? any help would be appreciated

thanks
jason

 

[410Fortune]

disconnect the fuel lines, and remember to put the bolt in th eintake before you lower it back in place when you are re-installing

The 5.0L is sthe same way in my BII, if you forget to put th ebolt in the intake before dropping it onto the spacer and lets say you start installing theother 5 bolts, well you'll have to go back and do it again.

Releave the fuel pressure at the shrader valve (I just use a rag to catch the gas, OR you can unplug the fuel pump fuse while the truck is running and let it die, od do the same unplugging the inetrtia switch. Then disconnect the fuel lines, this is not a big deal.

the solution for me was to purchase a new EGR hose from Ford, about $20, it comes unbent and ready to be shaped, so you can bend it to the new shape you need. However I am talking 5.0L here so your EGR tube may be much much harder (plastic upper intake on the OHV right?)

You can likely bend that sucker into submission but you should remove it from the truck, or you can use an adapter from your hardware store to move it up off th eexhaust manifold.

Wgere did you get your phenolic spacer?
Is this a 96 truck with the 4.0L OHV and plastic upper intake?

If so then in my opinion you are wasting your time.
If it has the metal upper, then by all means, get that sucker installed!
Or is this a 5.0L?

ou see your sig says 96 Ranger.
So um what engine is this for?

 

[scubajb19]

sorry old signature, i now have a 2001 5.0 explorer, well i never did undo the fuel lines i worked around them, i got the rear bolt taken care of, i took out the egr valve and pipe, in an attempt to seperate the two (at a mustang hotrod shop) i broke the egr valve, so then the shop sold me for 25 bucks an egr delete blank of kit, blanked off the intake manifold and capped the exhaust manifold, he said i will throw codes but it will run fine, anyways i have it all put together like that now and the only thing i'm left with is this green vacume line that went to my egr valve and now i have no idea what to do with it

 

[410Fortune]

A working EGR = more power and MPG

Check out fordfuelinjection.com if you want to delete it with no codes

Plug the vacuum line

 

[scubajb19]

ok vacume line is plugged and everything is running good thanks everyone for your help

 

[boominXplorer]

more power?

 

[scubajb19]

lil bit, not too noticable though, thursday my mac intake comes in and friday i'm gonna buy a flowmaster 50 series suv performance dual 2.25 in 3.0 out muffler and hack off my tailpipe and take it somewhere to have them bend me a 3" tailpipe then i'll put on my exhaust at my friends house who has a mig welder

 

[Turdle]

my $.02
You will not notice full power potential unless the PCM is operating in closed loop mode. This will not happen without a working EGR

Also, I personally believe the EGR to be one critical component responsible for longer engine life.

If you can fab exhaust, you can fab a new egr tube.

Jon

 

[scubajb19]

i've been planning on replacing it when trying to seperate the pipe from the egr the egr ended up breaking so i got the block off kit as a temporary thingme and the guys at steen racing was looking at it and because it's just pipe threads i should be able to put a 1" pipe fitting inbetween the pipe and egr to achieve what i needed

 

[Turdle]

Good idea
A fitting on the header itself would raise it straight up--yes?

 

[scubajb19]

well it comes off the header at an angle i believe so if you put the fitting off of the header it would push the egr towards the back of the engine bay away from the intake manifold however if you put the fitting between the egr and pipe it should raise it strait up...is this why the ford racing M-9430-E52 shorty headers are only for 96-98 explorers because the later models have the external egr that attaches to the header??? if so does that mean with the delete kit i could use these headers on my 2001???

 

[410Fortune]

You should skip those "headers" and get some Torque Monster headers if you want to remove the factory restrictions and make your EGR work (you are losing power right now because of the factory manifolds.

 

[scubajb19]

headers are a ways off and when they happen i think i have decided for the torquemonster headers i have my mac intake on its way but i have more stuff to do like exhaust and chip before i go onto headers, after the headers though i'm gonna be getting more technical cause i'll start moving into the engine with stuff like a cam and roller rockers... i'm never gonna have any money to go to the bar lol no wonder i'm always single

 

[bluexplorer1]

i've been planning on replacing it when trying to seperate the pipe from the egr the egr ended up breaking so i got the block off kit as a temporary thingme and the guys at steen racing was looking at it and because it's just pipe threads i should be able to put a 1" pipe fitting inbetween the pipe and egr to achieve what i needed

how did this turn out? any advice for anyone who wants to do the 1" spacer but does not have headers yet?

 

[bluexplorer1]

bump