High Output Alternator Recommendations

[celly]

Is it my red, I could use it for a spare? I chose black, and they don't even paint the whole thing. Show us the terminal if you get a chance when installing it.

Don, it's not as "burgundy" as I thought, but it would complement your truck for sure.

Already installed it (within 20 minutes of getting home from work). Unlike some on this site (and some definitely more than others), I don't take pics/vids of everything I do to my truck. (Since when is an owners manual a mod and don't we already know what they look like?)

Anyhow, all Dom Iraggi did was Dremel down the black ridges on the terminal. That allows the terminal from the wire to lay flat against the alternator and gives more room to bolt it down (can't bolt it down at all with my 1/0 terminals without it).

I'm still using 4 gauge. I plan on switching over to 1/0 tonight. Pics and vids probably not forthcoming.

 

[CDW6212R]

Gotcha, that's well described. I added a wire to mine, like I've done before. Often it takes a little trimming of the boot etc. I've always used a terminal that was sized to still fit in the boot, that's harder with a 0 gauge wire.

 

[celly]

I've always used a terminal that was sized to still fit in the boot, that's harder with a 0 gauge wire.

I've got some beefy Knukonceptz 1/0 terminals mounted and it left barely enough room to tighten it down, but it worked. I actually put a slit in the factory foot so it fits over top the terminal fairly well and secured it with a tiny zip tie. Not perfect, but works fairly well.

I'm waiting on on a few more ring terminals from knu and will finish the "Big Three" when they arrive. I've done the alt to battery and the battery to factory ground. Now just have to figure out where to do the last of the big three (grounding the engine or whatever). Lots of schools of thought how/where to do that.

 

[CDW6212R]

I liked what I did with my 99, it had the battery ground wire cut when I got it. That had gone to the SOHC starter bolt, so I moved it to a nearby frame hole(top of frame) with a self tapping bolt. The cut end I put at the radiator support ground hole, which is the main body ground for the battery. Meaning a dedicated ground from the frame to the body is wise, then you drop grounds to the frame elsewhere on the body. I plan to do that for my amp ground wires under the rear seat, on my other truck. More wires are better than less or just the stock stuff.

 

[ssp.interceptor]

.

 

[jd4242]

I The more power an alternator can produce, the more power it will take from the engine. This is why performance companies sell pulley kits, slow the alternator down and it will draw less power from the engine. Back in the early 1980’s Jim Vance of the Gates Rubber Company invented serpentine belt. The wider serpentine belt transmitted more power to the alternator, allowing for higher electrical output. However all belts have their limitations.

a single V-belt can only generate ~95amps before it will slip.
a 6rib belt can only generate ~180amps before it will slip.

There is no reason to have a 200amp alternator if it will only produce 180.

* For a while Ford offered a 215amp alternator made by Mitsubishi on its diesel ambulance option. However this alternator had an 8rib belt, because its required to generate that much power.
* Currently Ford offers a dual 110amp alternator option on its Super Duty Trucks. And Ford still runs an 8rib belt on that setup to ensure full power from both alternators. However the dual alternator option is controlled by the ECM. The alternators will not work without the computer.

even if you run an uderdrive pulley?

 

[PandorasCustoms]

Hmm.... 180amp MAX? Is this truly the case?
I am not sure how exactly sure how "the more power it can produce, the more it will take from engine" comes into affect.
If power is generated from when the pulley is spinning, then wouldn't the amount of power (Min or Max) be able to be affected if the pulley size were modified?
By increasing the size of the pulley, you would be able to get more interal rotations out a full rotation of the pulley, hence generating more power at Idle then the same alternator with a smaller pulley.
And, this would have no variation in the amount of load on the engine.

(This is concept I have always had regarding this type of information. Am I way off?)

I just don't see how an alternator that is designed to generate power at a much faster rate would be "capped" from a belt slip idea. The belt should have no affect outside of the rotation of the pulley.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ignore that crap from the new guy in post #45. Those are all myths, and I don't want to know where he heard it.

 

[jd4242]

:bsnicker: hahha

Ignore that crap from the new guy in post #45. Those are all myths, and I don't want to know where he heard it.

 

[PandorasCustoms]

I assumed as much, I really didn't think the logic made any sense.

 

[funkeymonkey4x4]

high out put alternators

high out put . . GO BIG OR GO HOME CONCEPT.
I THINK I CAN SPEAK FOR ALMOST EVERY PERSON HERE.
THERE AIN'T NOTHING LIKE LIVING AND THEN LEARNING FOR YOUR SELF.


NO COMPLAINTS HERE OF MY HIGH OUTPUT. 200AMP ALTERNATOR.

MY 92 EXPLORER ---LIL RED STOCK 4X4 WITH A HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR AND 6-130WATT LIGHTS----NO DIMMING OF THE LIGHTS A FEW ELECTRICAL FIRES BUT NOT DIMMING ...HEHE...DAMN I HATE THE WHITE POWDER .. GET A HALON OR CO2 EXTINGUISHER.... THERE EXPENSIVE BUT DEFINATELY WORTH THE MONEY.


I SPEND TOO MUCH MONEY ON THIS ADDICTION . 4X4 IS DEFINATELY NOT CHEAP. I CAN'T KEEP FROM BREAKING THE DAMN THING.

DOES ANYBODY ELSE CATCH AIR IN THEIR TRUCK?

 

[Nasty350LT1]

I got a good replacement alternator from AlternatorPros in Arizona.

http://www.alternatorpros.com/Alternators.htm

Shipped FEDEX overnight at their expense... NEVER looked back

130 AMP @ $145.00 They have bigger ones too.

 

[sniperelite]

Bringing back the thread for the third time...

I am planning on upgrading my alternator to a 200amp before I start going big with lights, subs, sounds, etc.

I have already experienced the lights dimming and flashing after hooking up only a single 12" sub and 1000watt alpine amp when driving under full load and don't want to wait for the day it goes completely dead on me.

So, I am planning on grabbing a new 200amp output alternator off of ebay (trying to keep cost as little as possible) as well as doing the "big 3" wire upgrades.

I have found what I believe is the lowest cost-effective option of upgrading my Mountaineer to a 200amp alternator.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0716482083&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

This is labeled as a 200amp Crown Vic 4.6L alternator replacement, however after doing some research I believe it will bolt up to my 4.6 with no problems. It also comes with a 1 year warranty in case the unit goes bad or is defective so that is a plus.

I am wondering if anybody has any opinions or thoughts on this alternator reguarding quality, durability, longevity, etc...
Also, I have seen some sellers saying if the pulley size is different than stock, to just use your stock pulley. If this pulley is a different diameter, can I take both alternators into a shop to have them swap the pulley from my stock alt to the upgraded alt?

Thanks for any info

 

[celly]

I am wondering if anybody has any opinions or thoughts on this alternator reguarding quality, durability, longevity, etc...

I can't say I came across that seller when I did my research a year ago, but their eBay feedback seems decent (just short of 100%). Have you asked the questions of that seller? I got some of the best answers to my questions from the sellers themselves when I was making my buying decision.

FWIW, my Iraggi has given me zero problems since I installed it, around a year ago.

 

[sniperelite]

Nice and quick reply!

But no, I haven't asked seller any questions reguarding it as of yet. I am almost 100% positive that it will bolt up no problems so idk if I should waste his time with a simple question like that.

What other information should I be looking for from the seller?

 

[celly]

Nice and quick reply!

But no, I haven't asked seller any questions reguarding it as of yet. I am almost 100% positive that it will bolt up no problems so idk if I should waste his time with a simple question like that.

What other information should I be looking for from the seller?

I would think all your questions about pulleys etc could be addressed by them as well.

As far as quality etc, I googled like crazy and ended up on car audio sites and auto enthusiast sites all over the www and came up with all sorts of good info. It took me several weeks to make my final decision.

Watch out for the fanboy posts that favour one amp supplier over another. Some times it feels like people are lemmings when making this purchase decision!

For what it's worth, as much as EF is a great source of all things Explorer, there was limited info on just this site so you really need to broaden your horizons on researching the purchase.

 

[Anime]

What the heck...my old post in this thread must have been deleted...or there was another thread on alternators...?

Anyway, in my search for H.O. alternators, I found something interesting...NAPA sells not just the stock 130A replacement, but they also sell a 200A High Output version especially for Explorers. The kicker is it's $300+, AND requires the purchase of an (overpriced) $119+ "kit" that is nothing more than a set of 2 awg wires...basically what you need for the big wire mod. The nice thing about these, though, is they have a LIFETIME warranty..if you buy that wire kit with it.

200 Amps, premade wire kit, lifetime warranty. I'd say that's tough to beat for $419 + tax, considering the price of the other 200A alternators out there.

My personal experience with NAPA and warranty items has been stellar. Even if they no longer sell the same particular item with a lifetime warranty, they honor lifetime warranties that were valid when the item was purchased.

 

[sniperelite]

Thanks for the good info celly and Anime...

I think EF is a great site for research and has most of everything we need to know about our cars here, however, yes further info can always be found out there on the net depending on how far you want to dig.

As far as the NAPA kit...
I like the fact that the total cost comes out to "420"(For other non-disclosed reasons Lol), however I am trying to keep cost as low as possible. And I especially can't see spending 120+ on two cables seeing as I work in retail and know how much those cables are marked up. The lifetime warranty can't be beat especially seeing how easy it is to find a NAPA store and change it out, but I can't be sure of where I will be even 5 years from now with the car so once again, I can't see dropping that kind of money into it. Keep in mind for the price you spent, you could stock up on at least 3 of these alt's(in-case they go bad) and still have money left to rewire everything well coming out to under $400 total.

Thanks for the ideas and other options guys, another opinion is exactly what I was looking for and found it. I think what I will end up doing is trying this one out with rewiring everything with thicker gauge wire and see how long it wants to last.

I'll chime in a few weeks later after everything is installed and let you guys know how it goes. Thanks again.

 

[gavin]

it looks like O'Reilly's carries the 200amp Powermaster (?) Ford 3g and 4g alts. Not sure on cost, as the website doesn't list it.

Also, napaonline.com is currently listing their 200amp at $424 or so now, at least for me, then the $120 wire "kit"

 

[Anime]

It may be $424 online now, but I'm sure if you talk to the right guy at NAPA, they'll give you way better pricing anyway.

As for those ebay alternators..and starters, too...you get what you pay for. I ordered one before, supposedly OE Ford. Received a piece o' junk made up brand name that reeked of cheap metal. Made in China, of course.

I'm sure there are a few rebuilders who do a decent job, but quality costs, and I doubt there are any who are providing anything other than a repaired alternator or a made-in-China remanufacturered deal for ~$100. As mentioned earlier in the thread, there's a lot of other parts that go into making an alternator not just high output, but heavy duty enough to handle what it's putting out. Not that they're all bad, but it just seems like there's a pretty big business out there in selling cheap alternators that might do what they say...for a year or so until the warranty is up.