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Improving fuel economy

Doesn't warmer intake air actually increase fuel economy? I know its not ideal for max horsepower, but less of the combustion would be "wasted" in heating the air/fuel mix. I had heard of some folks running Saturn SL's purposely with warm air intakes to improve economy.
 



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Doesn't warmer intake air actually increase fuel economy? I know its not ideal for max horsepower, but less of the combustion would be "wasted" in heating the air/fuel mix.
That plus the idea that a warmer charge of air is less dense per unit volume which means less fuel is being introduced into the combustion chamber per ignition cycle in order to complete the computed air-to-fuel ratio.
 












The non-ethanol station I filled up at sold 87 non-ethy gas. I found a station that is alot closer and has 93 octane non-ethy gas.

Judging from my last non-ethy tank I know it increases mpg, but would the 93 octane give additional increases? Or would it just add more power and no increase in mpg?
 






Fuel Economy

If you are trying to improve fuel economy you have to consider the impact of adding ethanol to your fuel. Since alcohol only has 66% of the energy that gasoline has you will get poorer fuel economy with fuel that has alcohol in it versus pure gasoline.

I use a simple formula when deciding which fuel to get. Since we are really about mp$ not mpg you should buy the fuel that gives you the best bang for the buck.

If the price of pure gasoline is less than 1.07 times the price of 10% ethanol/gasoline buy the pure gas. This gives you the best mp$.
 






Which octane to buy

Buy the lowest octane your vehicle manual says to buy. Higher octane prevents pre-ignition in higher compression engines. Putting 93 octane gas in an engine designed to use 87 octane is a waste of money. It will not increase power or fuel economy.

If your engine is pinging (pre-ignition), and you are using the recommended octane, you may have something wrong with your engine, but I suspect you would see a check engine light.
 






That plus the idea that a warmer charge of air is less dense per unit volume which means less fuel is being introduced into the combustion chamber per ignition cycle in order to complete the computed air-to-fuel ratio.

That is the equivalent of having a smaller engine. Less air(mass) being ingested to mate with less fuel, it would help if the lower power was still enough for the usage. So it has potential depending on how the truck is driven.

The same for ethanol, it provides a little less power, but if less is needed than maybe the final fuel cost is lower. I doubt that, but the idea is worth investigating.
 






Well done Dale on the thread, rethinking the potential fuel mileage gains to be found.

As for fluid temps, there are different goals for different vehicles, drivers, and conditions. I want the most power and reliability, so I prefer the lowest temps possible.

The fluids need to heat up enough to cook off condensation, but that's more about being sure to avoid too short of trips. There should not be any significant condensation in an engine if it's driven a decent amount. I'd shoot for oil temps of 180-210.

The trans is different, I don't believe there is any need to raise ATF temps to 200, or 150 degrees. There is virtually no air space inside a transmission, condensation should be none, irrelevant. I think a trans and ATF should function perfectly fine at 100 degrees, so I'm planning to get mine as low as possible. I'm going to try to modify a thermostatic oil adapter to open much sooner than 160, say 100-110 degrees.

I think Al's best attribute for gas mileage was the timing of his engine. He never worked on his timing chains, so it was the stock timing. He always had an unusually high fuel mileage, even to start with. I think that was a random ideal timing his engine had. What that ideal timing is, that's debatable.

I'm sure though that to be productive in finding the best timing, you will have to use a more accurate TDC finding method. The TDC tool in the "kit" is not accurate at all, it's easily off by several degrees from one time to the next that you use it. The best method to set the crank to TDC, is to use a piston stop tool and a degree wheel attached to the crank. Doing that you can set timing and know that it's accurate compared to the last and next time it's done.

If you are going to alter the timing, first locate true DC with a degree wheel and piston stop. Do that first, and find out where the existing timing is set at. I bet each engine tested is different.
 






A/C usage

Here are the results for the last two tanks of fuel:

233.9 miles/14.248 gals = 16.4 mpg
previous tank:
217.4 miles/12.699 gals = 17.12 mpg
Average for last two tanks
451.3 miles/26.947 gals = 16.75 mpg

I attribute the decrease for the last tank due to less boulevard driving and more A/C use. I hope to install the new Truck Plugs soon.
 






BTW Dale, how does your oil look? You do still use an Amsoil air filter yes?

I ask because I just installed my 2nd Amsoil air filter in my Lincoln. The oil has never been transparent after driving the car the first day after an oil change, with other air filters. I now have transparent oil again, like my 99 Explorer did with the Amsoil air filter.

I really like having oil clean enough that I can see through it. The air filter quality is super important.
 






Amsoil air filter

BTW Dale, how does your oil look? You do still use an Amsoil air filter yes? . . .

Don, so far I haven't had time to modify the air filter box to accomodate my 4 inch diameter intake so I haven't upgraded to the Amsoil drop in air filter. I know that the filter is superior to about everything else with regards to air flow restriction and filtering. I really think that the Amsoil drop in filter is the best solution and I need to order a couple before they are discontinued.
 






I recommend it for everyone. I love checking the oil and have it look clean, that's amazing. It's so common to see black or brown oil on a dipstick, and wipe it off like you think you are getting some contaminants out of the engine.

This oil is still new, 150 miles still, but it so clean you could drain it and pour it into a clear jar, and convince someone it's new oil. Two years ago my Explorer had oil that was transparent at 9,000 miles, that's when I began planning for the pre-lubing pump, external filter etc.

With oil that clean you can feel more comfortable to run a lighter weight oil, 0-20 etc.

Have you begun to plan for retiming the SOHC cams, using a degree wheel? I'm not planning anything for my SOHC truck, but I would have done that if I got into it again. I may have to to sell it, depending on mileage etc.
 






Champion Truck Plugs installed

I had a few hours available this afternoon so I replaced all of my Autolite AP103 single platinum electrode spark plugs with Champion 4401 Truck Plugs (see posts # 10 and #11 of this thread). The Autolite plugs may be the same ones that were installed by the tow truck driver who sold me the vehicle. I compared cylinder #1 plug wear with cylinder #4 and there was no obvious difference after 8,000 miles even though the current flows in opposite directions. I gapped all of the Truck Plugs at .056 inches (the maximum specified in my shop manual) and torqued them to 180 in-lbs. Using numerous combinations of short socket drive extensions I was able to replace all of the driver side plugs without removing the wheel and inner mud flap. On the passenger side I didn't even attempt to remove the most accessible plug (#1) without first removing the wheel and mud flap. The engine started and idled fine when I backed my Sport out of the garage. I'll see how it does tomorrow when I run some errands. I only have 20 miles on the current tank of gas so it will be interesting to see if the fuel economy changes.

I ordered twelve more of the plugs at closeout prices (they are obsolete) which should last for as long as I have the vehicle. In the future I'll pull the # 5 plug (the easiest to access) every 5,000 miles to see how it's wearing.
 






2000streetrod are you still using the stock plug wires? Any updates after changing the plugs?
 






stock plug wires

2000streetrod are you still using the stock plug wires? Any updates after changing the plugs?
Yes, I am still running what I suspect are the original stock plug wires. The Truck Plugs seemed to have little - if any - impact.

Here are the results for the last two tanks of fuel:

217.3 miles/13.262 gals = 16.4 mpg
previous tank:
233.9 miles/14.248 gals = 16.4 mpg
Average for last two tanks
451.2 miles/27.51 gals = 16.40 mpg

I drove very little on boulevards and further increased my A/C use. I'm organizing my garage in preparation for reconfiguring my external ATF and engine oil routing.
 






We both get the same city mpg, but you have me beat on the highway. Oh well, keep us updated.
 






Buy the lowest octane your vehicle manual says to buy. Higher octane prevents pre-ignition in higher compression engines. Putting 93 octane gas in an engine designed to use 87 octane is a waste of money. It will not increase power or fuel economy.

If your engine is pinging (pre-ignition), and you are using the recommended octane, you may have something wrong with your engine, but I suspect you would see a check engine light.

Are you sure vehicles don't adjust to this? at least to a point? I know a few years back, vehicles had a "knock sensor"which would adjust the spark timing according to need, so you could actually get slightly better performance with higher octane fuel but for the price difference it still wasn't worth it in terms of value.
 






Doesn't warmer intake air actually increase fuel economy? I know its not ideal for max horsepower, but less of the combustion would be "wasted" in heating the air/fuel mix. I had heard of some folks running Saturn SL's purposely with warm air intakes to improve economy.

Let's just say it takes a certain amount of power to move your vehicle at 70mph...with cooler air your getting more power, and needing the same power as usual to cruise at 70mph. I would think this means more efficient with cooler air. To a point of course, not talking sub zero temps here, I know the MAF senses how much air is passing by, if it is sensing air temp then it is adjusting the mixture perfectly all along at any temp.
 






Are you sure vehicles don't adjust to this? at least to a point? I know a few years back, vehicles had a "knock sensor"which would adjust the spark timing according to need, so you could actually get slightly better performance with higher octane fuel but for the price difference it still wasn't worth it in terms of value.

Knock sensors only cause vehicles to retard timing to prevent damage due to knocking. They will not cause a vehicle to run more aggressive timing for octane higher than they are tuned for, and higher octane fuel is less energetic.

Let's just say it takes a certain amount of power to move your vehicle at 70mph...with cooler air your getting more power, and needing the same power as usual to cruise at 70mph. I would think this means more efficient with cooler air. To a point of course, not talking sub zero temps here, I know the MAF senses how much air is passing by, if it is sensing air temp then it is adjusting the mixture perfectly all along at any temp.

Negative. You are running the same RPMs regardless, therefore producing more horsepower at a given RPM is irrelevant unless that is not enough power to maintain that RPM. With cooler air, you can get more air and fuel into the cylinder. This is how cold air intakes give you additional power. With warmer air, you get less fuel and air in the cylinder, which means less power, but using less fuel at a cruising RPM where you only need a small percentage of the power your engine is capable of producing to maintain that speed.

By the way, the MAF works by heating wires. As wires get hotter, resistance increases. Air passing over the wires cools them, which lowers resistance. So, the MAF is just checking the resistance of the elements in the MAF. This is how it gauges airflow in conjunction with the IAT.
 



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