Project thread: “Beast”

[TribeZ]

I am in the Torque Monster Header Club!!!

Picked up my donor vehicle today. The truck is dirty and rough, and mechanically well maintained though. Bought it from a mechanic he did the Rockers, Cam, and Header install himself.

It is a 2000 AWD

Engine mods:
1.6 Rockers and valve spacers / covers to match. The Engine fill tube leaks from this install and he said there was not much solution for that? But I think I can get it to seal better.
Stock Cam Shaft swapped for Comp XE 258-14
Brake Rotors Front 2002 Explorer pads with 2011 Ranger calipers ( I cant use anyways AWD and it had bearing spacers in the front for )
Rear is 2002 Pads and 2002 Ranger Calipers, Should be able to transfer these over with small modifications.
Secondary cats removed/ 2.5 Dual in/out but routed into spare. ( will probably chop the muffler and keep it )

It has the CD-Changer in the console which I am stoked to have now. It also has the 2000 Captain powered seats. They don't have the headrest like my 2001 seats, and don't have power heat but I may repair them and see how they look.


Just for my records;

A/C compressor
Radiator
Evap all 3 years old and keep.

Taking it over to another mechanic today to talk about the engine swap. Then anything else needing to swap around I will do myself.
I plan to take all kinds of body molding and most any useable in the future part off of the rig. Then its getting scrapped.

Not my video but from when was first put in.

 

[TribeZ]

Does anyone know how the Door codes and key fobs are attached to the computer?

If I take the security model in the back left tire out, and switch it to another vehicle, will the door codes and key fobs change with it?

finally found my own door codes! so nevermind on swapping those.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, that is the key code module and it's separate from everything else. You can add one code of your choice, and it won't be lost when the power is cut. I'm using the same code for six of my Fords.

 

[TribeZ]

Looking for some opinions on where to invest in my truck next.

I’m at maybe 1k budget currently with more in the future.

Couple options;
Replacing my windshield that’s been cracked for a while ~$300 but I also have a donor vehicle with a windshield that only has a small chip. I just cut the seal, and set the new windshield and seal again ?

Next was these;

https://www.carparts.com/details/Ford/Explorer/Powerstop/Brake_Disc_and_Caliper_Kit/2001/P15KC185536.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=20882398558&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqpSwBhClARIsADlZ_TkzM8Br6KdWuesnfnYlpwVx7OrehC_W83LlX5T8ORsR8CUFL5PHyrEaAlorEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Are powerstop breaks gimmicky ? I just want the red powder coated calipers mainly. But the rotors would be an upgraded over OEM style rotor I assume ?

Then I still have my sonnax zip kit to install for the valve body.

I want to finally properly tune the rig now that it has cam , rockers, TMH, and the dual exhaust should justify a proper tune? I I’ll the valve body upgrade happening after the tune be a bad idea ?

My new head unit shows up today! Finally ditching the stock I have been holding onto for so long. My display still works but the price are player and CD player recently stopped working. I am keeping the stock amp and the upgraded sub I put off the stock amp for now. But I might run all the wires needed for switching to a aftermarket sub and amp same time I put the new unit in.

 

[CDW6212R]

You should go through your car insurance to get a new windshield. I had mine done two years ago for no cost. Most shops used to do it for $250 total, coming to you with the new glass. They use special urethane sealant, you want that very much. The glass itself used to cost just $100 alone.

I'd pass on the high cost brake kit, those pads are maybe $50 a set tops, the powder coating isn't much at all for them, calipers will be OEM. You can buy a nice caliper pain kit for $75, many colors to choose from.

If you can, do the trans work first, then the tuning can include final adjustments to the shifting. They can set the shifts points higher or lower if you like, firm each one up differently etc. I don't know what your new cam rpm range should be, you might ask the cam tech line how it woks with your heads and intake etc. That can help you aim for a certain best shift point with the PCM tuning.

 

[TribeZ]

You should go through your car insurance to get a new windshield. I had mine done two years ago for no cost. Most shops used to do it for $250 total, coming to you with the new glass. They use special urethane sealant, you want that very much. The glass itself used to cost just $100 alone.

I'd pass on the high cost brake kit, those pads are maybe $50 a set tops, the powder coating isn't much at all for them, calipers will be OEM. You can buy a nice caliper pain kit for $75, many colors to choose from.

If you can, do the trans work first, then the tuning can include final adjustments to the shifting. They can set the shifts points higher or lower if you like, firm each one up differently etc. I don't know what your new cam rpm range should be, you might ask the cam tech line how it woks with your heads and intake etc. That can help you aim for a certain best shift point with the PCM tuning.

I have this bad boy now;

• Camshaft Series: Xtreme Energy Computer Controlled
• Usage: Street/Performance
• Cam Type: Hydraulic Roller
• Grind Number: XE258HR
• Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,200-5,200
• Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 206
• Exhaust Duration at .050 inch Lift: 212
• Advertised Intake Duration: 258
• Advertised Exhaust Duration: 264
• Lobe Separation: 114
• Intake Valve Lift: 0.48
• Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.48
• Lifters Included: No
• Valve Springs Required: Yes
• 1.6 rockers

I had wanted to just powder coat my own calipers. I just hate having parts off the truck and like having the part ready to swap over so no down time.

And I don’t have insurance on the truck right now. I was thinking of waiting a few weeks after I start it back up and ask them to replace the windshield but seems shady.

Sounds good, the valve body is priority looks like. Appreciate your advice on the breaks.

 

[TribeZ]

Instead of paying for a shop to tune me, I ordered the Lasota pro racer pack for SCT4 tuning software. He says it comes with one tune free and instructions on tunning myself. Hopefully has much more access then my current options with the scanner. I was running from box and it didn’t even have a pre installed tune. Was basically only good for transmission is timing.

 

[410Fortune]

Did you get valve springs, valve stem seals and new pushrods? You will need them with that cam

 

[TribeZ]

Did you get valve springs, valve stem seals and new pushrods? You will need them with that cam

I cheated, and bought a donor vehicle that had the work done. It’s getting swapped into my rig right now picking it up today. It has 1.6 rockers to match the cam, and new valve covers. I am also considering getting the 1” spacer now and putting that on myself.

Torque monster headers too, was very happy to find such a sexy motor.

When I get it back, I have a new touch screen stereo to install, and I will be taking the valve body out of the older transmission and going to rebuild it with the sonnax kit. I have no worries now using the second valve body, if I mess it up at least it’s not the one in my transmission.

I am getting just the calipers from power stop I can’t resist the red. Keeping my OEM rotors And just using duralast gold ceramic pads for now to sap before camping next weekend.

 

[VR4]

I cheated, and bought a donor vehicle that had the work done. It’s getting swapped into my rig right now picking it up today. It has 1.6 rockers to match the cam, and new valve covers. I am also considering getting the 1” spacer now and putting that on myself.

Torque monster headers too, was very happy to find such a sexy motor.

When I get it back, I have a new touch screen stereo to install, and I will be taking the valve body out of the older transmission and going to rebuild it with the sonnax kit. I have no worries now using the second valve body, if I mess it up at least it’s not the one in my transmission.

I am getting just the calipers from power stop I can’t resist the red. Keeping my OEM rotors And just using duralast gold ceramic pads for now to sap before camping next weekend.

i drilled the separator plate in that trans too. basically j-mod as much as i could (some of the holes were already bigger than recommended). i did not take any accumulator springs out though as i towed with it.

have fun with it. i kinda miss that turd

 

[TribeZ]

Feeling defeated. They got the donor motor in, which was running great while I drove it around for a week before the swap. They got it started up and after a short time overheated. Did a block test and told me my head gasket is bad or I got a blown motor.

Not sure how it goes from being fine to dead between the swap but I can’t afford more work on it. I can’t do the work myself I don’t have the resources. Was really excited to have this thing back. Even bought stuff for it waiting to still install. Not sure what else to do. Won’t find out tell Monday.

 

[97Sandbox]

What exactly did you see with the block test? Do you mean you checked for combustion gas in the coolant, or did a cylinder leak down test?

If it's really just a head gasket, that wouldn't be so bad compared to a warped/cracked head since these heads have all the valvetrain upgrades.

You'll still have to find the source of the overheating of course. Any chance it was a simple oversight like a rag left in a water pump inlet/outlet during the swap got missed during reassembly?

Not saying it's a good solution, but I had a similar situation with my Sport and I'm still driving it. Thermostat wasn't opening and it got way hot and cracked or warped a head. I don't have oil in coolant or coolant in oil though, just combustion gas gets into the cooling system if it runs much over 200F. I swapped to a lower temp thermostat (180 vs original 198) to keep the temps down and have been driving with it that way for over a year now. Like I said, not a permanent fix but may keep you moving till you have more resources available.

 

[TribeZ]

What exactly did you see with the block test? Do you mean you checked for combustion gas in the coolant, or did a cylinder leak down test?

If it's really just a head gasket, that wouldn't be so bad compared to a warped/cracked head since these heads have all the valvetrain upgrades.

You'll still have to find the source of the overheating of course. Any chance it was a simple oversight like a rag left in a water pump inlet/outlet during the swap got missed during reassembly?

Not saying it's a good solution, but I had a similar situation with my Sport and I'm still driving it. Thermostat wasn't opening and it got way hot and cracked or warped a head. I don't have oil in coolant or coolant in oil though, just combustion gas gets into the cooling system if it runs much over 200F. I swapped to a lower temp thermostat (180 vs original 198) to keep the temps down and have been driving with it that way for over a year now. Like I said, not a permanent fix but may keep you moving till you have more resources available.

Yea I am wondering if it was happening before or if the overheating is something they missed with putting the engine back together. Unfortunately the owner was in vacation and he is looking at it on Monday first. I never had it over heat for the week I drove it. And one of the days I drove it for a while 2~ hours open Highway. Never overheated.

And yea they only did a block test so far confirming exhaust gas in the coolant. No white smoke from exhaust no oil mixing. But was only running at idle for 15-20 mins so far.

 

[97Sandbox]

Sitting at idle can sometimes be worse for overheating since the only air passing through the radiator is what the fan's pulling. I definitely think it's worth some investigation before you throw in the towel.

 

[TribeZ]

Oh definitely I won’t ever let it die. Was just really excited to be cruising this weekend.

I want the master mechanic to take a look before freaking out too much.

 

[VR4]

wouldnt be the first time that particular shop has blown up an engine. ive gotten a caravan from them that they hacked up pretty good. was overheating. they "replaced" the radiator. (plot twist. they didnt.) they put a new head on a tacoma. (again. not new. reman head. when i pulled it and had tabors check it out he said it was cracked in multiple locations and should have never been installed). then another caravan that had EVERTHING replaced. (coil, plugs, wires, injectors, etc.) turned out it had bad wiring that they had "fixed".

what i can assure you is in the 10 years i owned that truck is it never once got hot or consumed coolant.

long story short....dude is a hack.

 

[TribeZ]

It’s back!

Up and running. Still tweaking a little waiting for full tune software access. For now my idle still seems off. Even with new engine mounts seems like it moves to much in the bay when I pull the throttle.

Crappy night time shot will get some better ones soon.

Not overheating, at least yet.. but after the shop changed the thermostat out they fixed the air lock issue and decided I could have it back. Wish I could have just had it back after they swapped the motor I could have had the airlock gone in 20 mins lol.

For now I’m going to break down the pulled engine and see if I can get the upper and lower reworked and ported so when I do have to do the head gasket I have the heads ready.

So many things to take off the second rig still. And my head unit install will have to wait tell after camping this weekend.

 

[97Sandbox]

Sounds like positive news so far!

Keep us posted about the intake porting too. I cleaned up the casting flash on my upper and gasket matched my lower to the heads, but I'm sure a real port job would be better. I did that at the same time as my TMH install, so I'm not sure how much (if any) of the power I picked up was from the porting.

 

[TribeZ]

First test was a learning process but a success!

First night back from the mechanic I had the codes flash for the pcm error / software issue. This is most likely my crappy custom tune and the new engine getting plugged in. I cleared it and it popped again twice on me for air intake related issues.

I may be over the conal setup for air intake and switch back to the stock. I had a coupling come apart and I threw 9 codes related to the emissions. Maf, o2 sensors, egr, etc codes. Fixed the coupling and reset again and was fine the whole trip back no check engine. Made it up to 17~ mpg so far was decent but will get better.

I definitely have a head gasket leak. I get white smoke at start up, so I am curious about two things though. I don’t loose coolant, and I don’t see the overflow reservoir getting filled. The truck doesn’t overheat and technically runs a little cool. When I was pushing the truck up a hill was a solid 1-2 mile steep climb and I had it up at 85mph. Temp for to the middle of the gauge at max.

I do feel the hoses for coolant getting pretty tight, I am assuming it’s getting exhaust gas in there still. I do plan to get the head gasket replaced, but am I going to hurt anything driving it if it’s not over hearing or losing a noticeable amount coolant?

I also ditched the stock radio finally. Upgraded to a touch screen. Sorry for crappy night shots I’ll get some more.

 

[97Sandbox]

I definitely have a head gasket leak. I get white smoke at start up, so I am curious about two things though. I don’t loose coolant, and I don’t see the overflow reservoir getting filled. The truck doesn’t overheat and technically runs a little cool. When I was pushing the truck up a hill was a solid 1-2 mile steep climb and I had it up at 85mph. Temp for to the middle of the gauge at max.

I do feel the hoses for coolant getting pretty tight, I am assuming it’s getting exhaust gas in there still. I do plan to get the head gasket replaced, but am I going to hurt anything driving it if it’s not over hearing or losing a noticeable amount coolant?

If you're getting white smoke, you're definitely losing coolant. If it's just at startup, I'm guessing your cylinder pressure is high enough to keep the coolant out while the engine is running, but once you shut off the truck an your cylinder pressures drop, the hot coolant at 16psi makes its way into the combustion chamber.

I'd worry less about trace combustion gas in the coolant and more about the coolant burning up in the combustion chamber which is steam cleaning the oil off your cylinder walls. I would suggest not driving it until the gasket is replaced for fear of trashing the block and rings.