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- November 11, 2005
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- City, State
- Brooklyn, NY
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Take the piece to a carpet store, and ask them if they have a similar color remnant.
A little bit of a let down today:
This photo doesn't reveal how stained the floor mat still is:
Sure thing!If you have time....Could you send me dimensions of this piece of carpet - Im thinking ill make one for my Ex.
Thank you! I just ran out on my lunch break and bought a set of Torx bits for the seat belts.I can have my seats out in about 15 min, of course I have had them out several times so the threads are 'clean'. Originally took about 30 min to an hour. You'll need a T-50 (?) for the seat belt in the floor.
You'll need a 10mm, 15mm, 18mm and Torx (for seat belt) for all the bolts.
Pop out the plastic kick panel plastic and door sill plates. You'll need plastic pry bars.
Oh...don't forget the console....remove the hardware and pull back ... hard!
Here is a good thread to help get it done quick: Removing Interior Get To Trans Access Plate
Good thing I have sawhorses and a wife! LOL (That sounds pretty bad actually!)That carpet will come clean with some real good work with dawn dish detergent, spray bottle for it, and a power washer on a driveway with a good slope. Pick a real hot day, and go at it. sawhorses and a fan underneath will help dry it. Beware, it'll be very heavy when wet so have a helper to get it up on sawhorses after spraying.
I'm refreshing my '97 4.0 OHV Sport right now, it's sat for years off and on similar to yours, so I'll throw in my advice as to what to look and listen for based on what I'm going through.
Fluids: Definitely drain and change them all ASAP, and replace with good synthetics. While I've fed mine synthetic motor oil for the last few years, I admittedly never changed any of the others. After doing transmission (manual), transfer case, and rear end oil recently with all synthetic, issues I thought I was having with my drive line have disappeared. Same with coolant, give it a good drain, cleaner with flush, and refill. I recommend changing your thermostat and radiator cap while you're at it. PS fluid can be flushed at home too, here's a good video on that. The rear end noise I would give it a fluid change first, I always go lowest cost fix first and you can give it a good inspection when you remove the cover to see if it really does need rebuild/replacement. Shaft
Plugs and wires: I recovered at least 2mpg and dropped my idle RPM by 200 just by replacing these. They were the factory platinum plugs and had 128k miles on them, gaps were worn on all to .070" and one was .090". Got Autolite Iridiums from Rock Auto, post rebate they came to less than a dollar per plug.
Brakes: As mentioned above, definitely check thoroughly. This is what downed my truck the last time, sprung a corrosion induced leak where the hard line is clipped to the top of the rear diff. It's a pain, but replacing all the lines was well worth it. I redid all my rotors and pads in the process since the length of sitting had put serious pits into the braking surface, but the calipers were still good. The friction pads on the shoes for my parking brake fell apart when I pulled the rotor off, so I recommend inspecting those. Bled out all the old fluid, took a quart to do that but brakes are 100% now, just watch it close and refill often to not push any air into the system.
Suspension: My front sway bar links were rusted to nothing and two shocks were blown, along with upper ball joints are shot. I haven't done the control arms yet, still gathering parts to do a full refresh on it along with steering links and only need to get it professionally aligned once, but new shocks and sway bar links have really refreshed it, just have a bit of slack in it now which is manageable. Ball joints and stabilizer bar links are common items to go out on these, so give yours a good look. Lots of threads there to look through if you do have issues.
Overall, you're at the right place to get help. This forum has certainly been an asset to me thus far.