RU planning to put a 302 in your X? | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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RU planning to put a 302 in your X?

So you think you want to put a 302 in your 91 to 94 Four Wheel Drive Explorer? My advice is plan, then plan some more. Ask questions, then plan, and finally ask more questions then plan. You get the point. There are several sources for doing this swap with Rangers. Most of this info is usable on the Explorers. However, some options do change the way things fit. My ABS motor on the 94 XLT is making it tough to mount a radiator. Also, Size does matter! 302’s are the easiest fit. There is not much room in the older Explorers, so anything bigger than the 302 ( Size wise, not Cubic inch wise ) is hard to squeeze in there. Yes 427’s can be made to work, but why spend all the extra money redesigning the frame? Doing this conversion takes Time and Money, Be patent and you’ll enjoy the outcome. Try to rush it and things can go south real quick.

I started my project 9/27/00. Yep, over a year ago. Just proof that this is an addicting sport when you can sit for a year and still long for the offroad experience. Looking back, the biggest single improvement I could have made to this project would have been using a Donor vehicle. First choice would have been a 96 model 2WD V8 Explorer. Second choice would have been any 89 to 93 Mustang GT.

Donor vehicles can be picked up from Salvage or Insurance pools. Also, find a friend that can purchase from the Auto Auctions. High mileage Mustangs are going for $500 running ( who cares what the body looks like ) and the Explorers are going for around $3000. With the Donor vehicle you get all the brackets and wiring. Very important. Using the Explorer, you get the all-important clearance for your radiator.

Even with the Donor vehicle it is a great idea to have the motor rebuilt. It is out of the vehicle, do it now. Should cost around $1500 depending on how crazy you get. Cheap insurance. I don’t want to ever pull my motor out of my Explorer again. So rebuild it now. If you’re using an automatic, you’ll need to get Advance Adapters kit. It’s about $900 bucks and includes the output shaft. Have a good tranny shop rebuild your tranny using the new output shaft that fits your Transfer case. If you’re using a manual tranny, I don’t know what to tell you. Refer back to paragraph one.

Other thoughts…..

Make sure you line the motor up correctly. If the motor mounts are not lined up right then you will have the back of the transfercase to far left or right, and it’s time to start over. Pull the motor and reweld mounts.

Fuel Rails….This stuff is expensive. You can hook up the fuel lines on a 94 XLT using 96V8 Explorer parts. It's 4 separate parts and cost about $180.00 ( Go to a salvage ) The fuel rails connect at the back of the intake into extension lines that hook directly to the hardlines coming from the gas tank. Custom fuel line is expensive too, so refer to paragraph 1 and decide which route you want to go.

Exhaust…This is a mess on my truck. I went the shortcut route and tried to use Mustang Shorty headers. They did not work on my truck. Purchase the custom headers from Kaufman or one of the other vendors. Once past the manifolds I have a nice 2 ½” true dual set-up with Cat Convs. & 02’s. I will pass emissions.

Wiring….. This was another tough area. The explorer uses a fuse relay panel and the mustangs don’t. So I had to somehow merge the mustang and Explorer Harness. A good friend on this board did this for me. Fox wiring charges $600 for a new harness, but it bypasses the Fuse relays. I wanted it to be factory looking under the hood so I paid a friend to do this wiring for me.

Cost…..Well that’s hard to nail down. There are bargains everywhere if you do your homework. My estimated cost is between 5 & 7K right now. Can’t get an exact cost due to several issues that occurred during this project. It is not a cheap conversion. It does make swapping to a solid axle front seem less painful to the wallet though.

At this time my project is still in progress. I ran out of time, so I’m using money to finish the project. I have another friend finishing the truck. He is being paid well for what is left. I saw first hand the LT1 vette motor he put in another friend’s jeep. It looked factory, so I asked if he could finish mine. It was hard to find a shop to do this project because of all the potential for custom or fabricating work to make this combo work. I am glad I stumble across him. I’m hoping to have this finished this year or maybe in January. Plan on seeing everyone in Phoenix!


Good Luck and enjoy.
 



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i got ahold of a 302

finnaly, i got ahold of a 302, for $25 canadian :D good deal i guess....needs a bit of work, but its around 200hp, i could easily mod it, and if i dont want it, il sell it to someone else..
 



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Ok, I've read this entire post like 3 times and have spent hours researching this. Here's my question. Everyone seems to be using car engines. If I were to use a 302 and tranny out of a late model F150 or Bronco does this simplify matters, especially in the area of tranny/t-case adaptor? All answers are appreciated.

:chug: :chug:
 






I have a quick question????Has anyone used an engine/trans/transfercase from a F-150????? Would that not be an ideal swap???
 






Sorry jgamble..we posted on the samething!!!!!
 






Just out of curiosity.. whats the largest engine you could fit without doing any major body work to it? And getting a v8 EFI, is that really expensive? I live on mostly flat land, so would EFI even be neccessary?
 






well there is a 93 Ranger getting a 4.6L, thats a big ass engine, it required some very creative custom fab to get the steering to clear the block.
I have seen a 460 in a Bronco II.

Size is not the limiting factor, time and $$$ is.

IMO EFI is the ONLY way to go, but a carbed 302 can be had and fitted quite easliy and cheaply.
best bang for the buck is the tried and proven 5.0L EFI conversion.


Also I eould like to change my answer in this thread to Yes I plan to install a 5.0L in my truck :)
 






I like the EFI idea best now. I really want to see someone put a v10 in an explorer though :D.
 






ive always been interested in seing a diesel explorer.

my V8(351w H.O.) swap is slow going. got the money, got all the parts just aint got the time. i was planning on being done by now but looks like it will be april/may. i have to be done by the end of may so ill update then.
 






Great thread. Signing up!
 






Lets keep this one alive.

I have a question...How about a 302/E4OD from a Bronco,F-150, Econoline. Use the stock electronic transfer case from the Explorer,and use the computer and wire harness from the donor vehicals????I know the F-150/bronco/Econoline use the engine compartment fuse pannel just like the Explorer.I mean it is on the other side compared to the Explorer but it could be installed and powered up with the batt cables going to it.It "SOUNDS" like an easier swap when it comes to wireing the Explorer.......What do you think?????

Also, who has pics of there swaps/mods stuff like that???
 






will the 96+ V8 explorer oil filter adapter work on the 91-94 explorer conversion?
 






Hotwheels, now way no how. the 91-94 steering box is DIRECTLY where the 5.0L oil filter mount is.

The Canton 90 degree billet adapter I used clears my steering box by about 3/8", thats IT! It is only 1.25" tall when bolted to the block.

2893filter_adapter.jpg


You must remote mount the oil filter, well its the easiest way, and not all block filter adapters (for a remote mount kit) will fit. Alot depends on where you place the engine on the frame (engine mounts)

It is all covered in my conversion thread (signature), my 88 is basically the exact same thing as a first gen Exploder. Here's a quote from page 3:

"Some notes from last night:
The explorer 5.0L block uses a oil filter adapter that will not work with the Canton (or similar) oil filter 90 degree elbow. The piece that the new elbow threads onto is missing from the block. I had to get this piece from another 5.0L block (thanks Brett), then I was able to mount the Canton adapter.

The L&L engine mounts are almost perfect, they lined up when bolted to the engine cradle way better then I ever would have imagined, they also put the engine way down low while still clearing everything very well. However I found it was 100 times easier to bolt the mounts completely to the block, then lower the block in place, its such a tight fit that I couldnt get the pass side bolt through both pieces. Doing it this way made it a snap. the bolts that hold the mounts to the cradle go in last.

The heater box will not fit in place after the block is bolted in.
again learned this the hard way. I guess it depends on where your engine sits and how much of the box you notch, but I had to loosen the engine mounts, raise the block about 4" and swing it forward, then install the box.

There is about 1/4" clearance between the Canton elbow and the power steering box, I have about 1/2" clearance between the Duff drop bracket and oil pan now, both of these will improve when the tran is installed and the back of the engine gets lifted slightly."
 






There is about 1/4" clearance between the Canton elbow and the power steering box,

thats not enuff fer my application.... HP has a way of distorting engine mounts...

i will be doing things the speedfreak way with 1/4" plate... this 5.0 explorer stuff is worth a small fortune here due to the mustang crowd jacking up prices and the wreckers think even stock manifolds off a 5.0 explorer are worth gold... was getting prices to the tube of $300cdn for STOCK explorer 5.0 manifolds from the wreckin yards and even private sales....

i just bought some manifolds to get the conversion ball rolling.... even with 4.56's and 35"s the 4.0 is a dog in low range trying to chew and spit skeg.... time fer a V8

stay tuned for a SAS'd/hacked/small blocked exploder on PROPANE.... yup.... u read that rite... P R O P A N E

oh and this is a junkyard wars build.... budget all included is $1000cdn.... plus the freebies ;)
 






It was more like 3/8"-1/2" when the engine and trans were bolted in for the final time

You can get a bit more by simply moving the block back a bit and/or up.

There are other adapters on the market that are not as tall as the Canton, but they are not as good either :)
 






You can get a bit more by simply moving the block back a bit and/or up.

am i missin something here or is everyone building custom tranny cross members here?

i have a "easy" to adjust crossmember for the tranny to bolt to but i cant see everyone playing with the stock x-member much?

the 4.0 allready sits pretty close to the firewall so there cant be that much room to slide a 5.0 around... oh well.... swap starts at the end of the month so i guess i will get to see what all the fun is.
 






The stock X member was the EASIEST to modify/move of them all. Most people just end up slotting the factory holes for the trans mount, some people have moved the x member back one full length, and I had to notch and add material to my Autofab trans mount to fit, which sits on my Skyjacker trans X member.

It all depends on which trans yo uuse and how the 5.0L sits in your truck EVERY CONVERSION IS DIFFERENT.
 






like i said.... "easy"..... easier then stock

SmaPre0352.jpg
 






Ah now I see, you were working on one :)
 






i already built it.... it was sorta a necissity with my SFA and C5 swap... but if all goes well i hope all i need to do is bolt on a SBF bell and converter and let the C5 locate the 302... body mod's and stuff falling off with a torch are not a concern with this swap... i have my eye on several donor rad's that would be about 6"-8" wider then the stock explorer rad... with the 3" body lift i should be able to get away with alot... trying to stay away from electric fan's due to reliability issues... if i have to go electric maybe the rad need's to go in the rear cargo area....

blah.... will stop polluting this thread now and maybe start my own V8 swap thread once i find a motor.
 



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My trans mount moved back about 1.5" with the 4R70w and 5.0L, not too far from where my 2.9L and 5 speed were, or my 4.0L and A4LD. I dont think you will have issue with your custom x member since you already have the C5.

Can't wait to see your project!

If I push my engine back anymore it would require cutting of the firewall due to the upper GT-40 intake and exhaust. I have no body lift.
 






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