should i cut my losses. Rear chain

[janolsson]

engine in

Picked up the engine yesterday from chris. With a bit of ingenuity we got it into the boot of my saab. Sorry frogot to take the camera with me.
So this morning about 11 I started to transfer all the gubbins from my lump to the replacement. below is my engine on a stand and on a dolly is the replacement.

I stripped the replacement down to the block and heads but left the injectors and fuel rails. I then did the same to my old one as I needed to transfer the engine harness. I then put everything back onto the replacement block.
Below you can see the nearly new gaskets on the lower intake. The lower gaskets are also nearly new so this intake was used.

This is my old block sans all the stuff (the water hose also went)

So the engine was dropped back into the truck at about 4pm

Notice the use of some recycled seat belt. All that needs to be attached is the steering pump, the aircon bracket and the rad + hoses.

So by 6pm i had a fitted engine. YEYYY

Now this week i've got to drag my butt out of bed to put the tranny back in. Some more cleverness will be needed to get it up but i'll work it out and try not to break anything on me or the truck.

 

[blueka]

Pics no workie!!!


Si

 

[janolsson]

workin on it

 

[janolsson]

A quick read of the Q&A and it's sorted.
More picks to come of the valve damage when i get around to it. Assuming this engine works and all goes to plan with MOT i will have no rush on it.
I did get a complete head off chris for donor parts so we'll see when i pull mine what is needed.

 

[rich uk]

way to go
for the trans get 2 x 100mm m10 bolts to help line it up and pull it in,,
assuming your gonna use a jack to get the trans up there,
use a cargo strap on the back end ( round the transfer case where its wide ) loop it through the chassis ...

jack the trans right to the top and fit the back support minus the big rubber mount that will give some safety while your under there,and help get it nice and straight to the flexi plate ...good luck mate ,fingers crossed

 

[janolsson]

way to go
for the trans get 2 x 100mm m10 bolts to help line it up and pull it in,,
assuming your gonna use a jack to get the trans up there,
use a cargo strap on the back end ( round the transfer case where its wide ) loop it through the chassis ...

jack the trans right to the top and fit the back support minus the big rubber mount that will give some safety while your under there,and help get it nice and straight to the pressure plate ...good luck mate ,fingers crossed

thanks rich, good tip with the strap

 

[cjmedina]

I may have to pull my engine to....How hard is it to do in a driveway?


CJ

 

[janolsson]

I may have to pull my engine to....How hard is it to do in a driveway?


CJ

Thats where i did it.
Be methodical and get everything unhooked.
don't forget the starter motor wiring might be attached to the engine mount bracket.
The hardest parts are the manifold to down pipe bolts. Spray them with good quality penetrant for a couple of days b4.
No need to disconnect the ac system, you can just unbolt the carrier, and swing it out of the way.
You need to remove the hood so a helper makes this easier but i'm 6'3" so long arms and was able to do it myself.
The top transmission bolts are tricky to get to. I used a 13mm flexihead ratchet spanner going in thro the wheel arches.
With the rad out there is plenty of clearance to lift the motor out without pulling off the accessory bracket.
I also placed a plank of wood in front of the aircon rad just in case the engine swung forward.
Hire/borrow a good engine hoist and buy an engine stand.
Old seat belt tied to the manifolds is a good redneck way to make a strap to attach hoist to (make sure knots are good as you don't want 200+ kg dropping)
there are some step by step instructions on the site somewhere, do a search.
Good luck

 

[cjmedina]

Thanks for the great info

I won't know till tomorrow when I pull the left cover off.

I don't have compression on the right bank. 20-30 pounds 0 on #6

Some how I think the chain slipped on the sprocket.

I hope it can be fixed in the vehicle though....????????


CJ

 

[janolsson]

Update. The saga continues. Soo close

Hi guys
Thursday and today I have been putting the Tranny in.
Used a ratchet strap to lift the thing up high enough to put a caddy i made under it and a trolley jack under that at the balance point. Had some blocks of wood (6" lengths of old floor board) to wedge in position while i moved the strap to around the transfer case. Then jacke up to the right height. I made sure the TC bolts lined up to the flex plate and had a couple of the tranny to block bolts to hand. Then heaved the box into place and with a little jiggling (about 5 mins including having to reseat the dirtplate several times) i got it to seat fairly flush. Without letting go of the tranny i used one hand to put in a couple of the bolts finger tight to hold the assembly together. I then put all the bolts in tight. I then connected up the drive shafts but was hassled into going for a beer garden pint as the sun was shining so as i thought i'd done well i left it at that for the day.
However today i noticed that i had caught the wiring on the transfer box on the fuel tank and cut one wire and majorly crushed a couple of others

So i cut and soldered and heat shrinked these wires, tho the thick brown one wouldn't take the solder so i had to use a terminal block and wrap tape.

The rest of the day was spent putting the cats back on, the skid plate, hookig up all the control wires and cable.
Now all back together save the panel under the Rad and the snow shield i thought i'd give it a go. Flat battery Boooo.
Battery is on charge for the night. But here is a pick of the car on all 4 wheels and complete for the first time in a while. I might even wash her if she runs tommorrow!

Tata for now

 

[rich uk]

Cool it went in smoooth...

 

[janolsson]

Cool it went in smoooth...

If you call me ballsing something else smooth then yes. I guess it was only a minor case of me breakin something while tryin to fix the old girl. Fingers crossed it will run ok tommorrow as the engine is untested and i'm relying on Chris q sellin me a good un.
I put my tranny back in and not the replacement i bought as i think it was the bent flexplate catchin the dirtplate b4 causin the rattle i had and not the pump as i feared. My reasoning for this is while it was out i spun the TC around and heard no adverse sounds and fluid was pumped out of the cooler ports.
Heres hopin eh
regards

 

[rich uk]

I meant the front end Jan ....its easy to squash the rear wiring a little.
good luck today mate

 

[janolsson]

She lives!!!!
I still have a rattle from the rear of the engine/bell housing area but i'm convinced it is just a bent dirtplate.
The engine sounds smooth and strong. The tranny goes forwards and in reverse and the 4x4 clunks in and out.
Now i have to change the oil and filter as the old stuff is black and the filter is bashed (it wasn't me this time).
I then have to service the brakes for the MOT, the disks need cleaning off and i'm going to get EBC greenstuff for the front and EBC ultimax for the rear

 

[chrisquelch]

good news

hi jan good to hear all is well after all the work and miles you have put in .cheers chris

 

[DuncanOfEngland]

Dirt plate fixing

Janolson wrote:

.. including having to reseat the dirtplate several times


A good way od securing the dirtplate is to drive a chisel in close to the holes in the plate, which are there to clear the two locating dowels. This will distort the hole sufficiently for it to grip on to the dowel. No more plate moving about, yet it can still be removed if necessary with a big screwdriver.

Duncan

 

[janolsson]

Janolson wrote:

.. including having to reseat the dirtplate several times


A good way od securing the dirtplate is to drive a chisel in close to the holes in the plate, which are there to clear the two locating dowels. This will distort the hole sufficiently for it to grip on to the dowel. No more plate moving about, yet it can still be removed if necessary with a big screwdriver.

Duncan

Ahhhhh! why didn't i think of that. That'll be why you can do this for a living and i can't.

 

[janolsson]

So today i cleaned up the brakes.
The disks came up with a bit of emery paper and my orbital.
The pads were glazed but had loads on them so i used the orbital with wet emery and plenty of water (didn want to be breathing the dust) and they came up up good. I will replace the pads if it fails the MOT on brakes or in a month or two when the wallet can afford it. £44 front green stuff and £16 rear EBC ultimax. I just thought that best put it through the MOT to make sure the money isn't needed elswhere first. I did notice the outboard seal on the N/S hub is hanging out so even if it does pass the MOT the hub will need replacing v soon.
The rear disks were very glazed on the inside for the handbrake as were the shoes so again wet emery and all was good. Now adjusted so there is v slight drag but will hold the car in D or R with 1200 rpm.
Just in the driveway back and forward they feel 10x better. Just got to bleed them and the car is ready for the MOT. The station i use is busy but hoping to get it booked for fri, will let you know.

 

[rich uk]

wish u luck

 

[janolsson]

Thank you all

Thanks to all of you that gave me the kick up the jacksie to get this thing back on the road. And thanks to all that gave me help.

SHE'S PASSED HER MOT !!!!!!!

This is by no means the end of the road on this project as i still have to rebuild the head on the original lump and get rid of the rattle that is either the tranny pump or the dirtplate (if its the dirt plate once it's worn the rattle will go) though it could also be the starter catching the flexplate, mmmm.

I'm gonna start a new thread once i start doing the head but b4 i do does anyone have the part no. for the right head gasket? went to the dealer today and he couldn't tell me which side was which. I need the one for cylinder #1,#2 and #3.

thanks again
regards