" Stage 2 " Intake 04-05

[MCD04EB]

haha! yeah im definately gonna just go, its so fun and sounds so awesome!

 

[magsnwill]

Hey, I have a 2003 4.6l v8. Will this mod (parts list from beginning of thread) work with my v8??

 

[HiImBrian]

Hey, I have a 2003 4.6l v8. Will this mod (parts list from beginning of thread) work with my v8??

All he really did was remove the built-in baffles on his intake. The 4.0 is different than our 4.6. You'd be much better off spending the $150 and buying a K&N cold air intake kit. It will perform better and be much less of a hassle. It'll look like this when it's in:

 

[magsnwill]

Awesome. Thanks! That's sort of what I figured anyway.

 

[magsnwill]

What's a good online site to buy from?

 

[HiImBrian]

What's a good online site to buy from?

I used Google shopping and searched "K&N 57-2539". Just keep an eye out for a few weeks until you find a good price. I paid $154.99 plus shipping for mine.

 

[magsnwill]

That's a good bit cheaper than I've found. I'll keep looking though. Not like I'm in a rush. Thanks for the help.

 

[HiImBrian]

That's a good bit cheaper than I've found. I'll keep looking though. Not like I'm in a rush. Thanks for the help.

$180-$190 isn't a bad price... I just watched for a few weeks and found a good deal on one... I'm pretty patient.

 

[2002GreyHD150]

Ok... <deep breath>... I am going to repeat what I said in Stage 1 so that those thinking that $180-190 is "acceptable", I just shudder and want to puke, thinking about it...

1. ANYTHING with an open filter in the engine bay is NOT a Cold Air Intake. Its a HOT air intake. I don't car if K&N has a heat shield. If it is not ISOLATED from the under hood temps and/or Fan wash, its a poor design.

2. The Restriction in both the 4.0 & the 4.6L engines is NOT the air box, the filter or the location. It is the rubber/plastic, corrugated tubing and silencer on the side of it. Think of free flowing exhaust, eliminate bends, restrictions = more flow. Common sense. The tract from the MAF side of the 4.0 & 4.6 engines AFTER the MAF is where the losses are. PERIOD. A good, fresh filter, and a clean ducting from the MAF = success.

3. "Seat of the pants" dyno's are mental dynos. They TELL you your $180 spent was worth it. I have a scan gauge and I can look at Air intake temps (IAT), as well as other ECM values. Stock air-box + good ducting = 15-30 degrees lower IAT's and my wife's Monty runs within 5* of outside temps at all times. The restriction adds turbulence which adds heat.

4. MPG up 3 MPG. End of conversation, before the original engine let go of (2) bearings.

5. Cold Air Intakes are a MARKETING ploy to TAKE your money. Volant is the ONLY Truck/SUV manufacturer that makes CAI's... PERIOD.

Sorry for the Rant , but y'all gotta THINK about the dynamics and the systems you are modifying and see where the gains can really be.

Go back to roughly page 3 of this post. Posts #63-70... READ... look at the $$ vs what you want to spend on a Hot Air sucking waste of Money...

Sorry... stepping off my Logic Soap Box now.

Rob

 

[2002GreyHD150]

All he really did was remove the built-in baffles on his intake. The 4.0 is different than our 4.6. You'd be much better off spending the $150 and buying a K&N cold air intake kit. It will perform better and be much less of a hassle. It'll look like this when it's in:

Just FYI the reason the '04-up guys don't hahve a K&N or other option, besides its a waste of $$ and NOT a CAI, is that the MAF is molded to the top of the airbox. Which, said airbox is one of the better airbox designs.

Carry on.

Rob

 

[HiImBrian]

Ok... deep breath... I am going to repeat what I said in Stage 1 so that those thinking that $180-190 is "acceptable", I just shudder and want to puke, thinking about it...

1. ANYTHING with an open filter in the engine bay is NOT a Cold Air Intake. Its a HOT air intake. I don't car if K&N has a heat shield. If it is not ISOLATED from the under hood temps and/or Fan wash, its a poor design.

2. The Restriction in both the 4.0 & the 4.6L engines is NOT the air box, the filter or the location. It is the rubber/plastic, corrugated tubing and silencer on the side of it. Think of free flowing exhaust, eliminate bends, restrictions = more flow. Common sense. The tract from the MAF side of the 4.0 & 4.6 engines AFTER the MAF is where the losses are. PERIOD. A good, fresh filter, and a clean ducting from the MAF = success.

3. "Seat of the pants" dyno's are mental dynos. They TELL you your $180 spent was worth it. I have a scan gauge and I can look at Air intake temps (IAT), as well as other ECM values. Stock air-box + good ducting = 15-30 degrees lower IAT's and my wife's Monty runs within 5* of outside temps at all times. The restriction adds turbulence which adds heat.

4. MPG up 3 MPG. End of conversation, before the original engine let go of (2) bearings.

5. Cold Air Intakes are a MARKETING ploy to TAKE your money. Volant is the ONLY Truck/SUV manufacturer that makes CAI's... PERIOD.

Sorry for the Rant , but y'all gotta THINK about the dynamics and the systems you are modifying and see where the gains can really be.

Go back to roughly page 3 of this post. Posts #63-70... READ... look at the $$ vs what you want to spend on a Hot Air sucking waste of Money...

Sorry... stepping off my Logic Soap Box now.

Rob

Whoa there buddy... The guy asked for the equivalent mod for the 4.6, and that's what I gave him. Nowhere did I mention performance gains or dyno results. I answered the guys question, and I called it a cold air intake because that's what it's called. This wasn't a debate about that. No need to hop in and rain on the freakin parade dude.

 

[2002GreyHD150]

See.. this is what happens... because the "butt dyno"... which is DIRECTLY linked to the "wallet dyno"... people get their panties in a bunch because the FACTS show otherwise.

I am just sharing the FACTS... Marketing people can sell whatever they want... take off the blinders and accept the fact that HOT air coming into the filter & into you engine is a BAD thing...

Don't shoot the messenger... I'm just trying to help.

Rob

 

[Inspector13]

Actually the Volant is a cool air intake as it gets it's air from the engine bay directly behind the headlight. I'm betting the K&N gets a shot load of cold air if you take the headlight out.

My old Silverado was kinda like these Explorers. The airbox was great but the piping w/ all the resonators was ****. They had Airaid Jr. kits for them (better drop in air filter and a low restriction tube to go from the MAF to the TB). A little cutting on the airbox and EGR tube, and a few pokes with a screw driver on the MAF and you were all set for under $100. Well set enough with other mods to run with lightly modded 1st & 2ed gen turbo AWD DSMs in a 4000lb 4x4 truck.

Before dropping a bunch of money on stuff do some research. If it says it seals out hot engine air try finding out how well it seals. I personally don't prefer open air elements in the engine bay but depending on the setup I would (ie a carb'd motor w/nitrous, a turbo w/ intercooler, a blower w/meth, etc etc).

 

[Kewowskata]

I think I can feel and hear the difference now, lol. A bit less of a throttle lag also.

 

[Exploder850]

I ditched stage 2. Didn't care for the cheap ass plastic tubing. So I stayed stocked just removed the silencer, drilled the holes, and K&N filter. Good enough not much you can do to improve a gas guzzler.

 

[DanielJ]

Thanks! Going to be doing this very soon!

 

[DanielJ]

Yeah and its easy to install.
This is my intake:

Where did you get the MAFS tube at? I cant seem to find one anywhere that fits and can house the rectangular MAFS. everything i find is for a circular one.

 

[2002GreyHD150]

Daniel... Daniel..Daniel... Daniel... please PLEASE go back and READ anything in this thread I have posted.

The open element filter with "MAF-adapter" is the WORST thing you can go for your 4.0 or 4.6. PERIOD.

Keep the stock box, put in a fresh filter, do the replacement ducting from the MAF to the Throttle Body (TB)...

For the guy/gal who had issues with the "cheap plastic parts" or whatever he/she said... Wake up... the Intake on your 4.0 or 4.6 is the same basic poly-ethylene crap you are crying about... the plastic is actually a BETTER heat conductor (aka releases heat faster) than the convoluted rubber crap from OE. Thinking and research are your friend...

Bottom line kids: Getting rid of the convoluted, rubber ducting is where the MPG & HP gains can be found. a straight, smooth, consistent flow of air is what you want. The ECM will adjust for the changes. If you have exhaust and other mods, a tune will show even MORE gains in both MPG & HP.

Don't confuse yourselves... Its an internal combustion, gasoline engine. Doesn't matter if its got a 2 barrel carb or the latest/greatest EFI: AIR/FUEL in...SPARK!.. Exhaust out....

Improve all 3 efficiently, make HP & gain MPG....

Rob

 

[HiImBrian]

 

[DanielJ]

Already fixed it so i dont have to waste my time reading anything.