What Are Some Good Ways to Get Better MPG

[FIND]

If there's any difference using synthetic oil on a 19 year old gas guzzling 155hp 4500 lb truck based SUV I have not seen it. Basic oil changes every 3-4K miles is all I'll ever do.
I will not pay for that dream. YMMV

Basic oil change every 3-4K miles:
5qts conventional oil on sale at walmart, ~$12
Oil Filter ~$3.50
Total ~15.50

Average American drives roughly 12k miles a year, and therefore would require 4 oil changes per year, ~$62 in oil changes

Changing oil using synthetic every 8-10k miles
5 qts mobil one at walmart ~$20-$24
Oil Filter ~$3.50
Total ~$23.50-$27.50

Roughly 1.5 oil changes a year, $35.25-$41.25

Lets change it twice a year, just cause we like dumping good oil, $55 bucks a year at most.


Better mileage, whether it exists or not, is a moot point, you are saving money on petroleum either way.

 

[Jason94sport]

That assumes one waits to change the oil on again a 19 year old tired engine. One that leaks from the oil pan gasket. I have never seen a Explorer with the 4.0 OHV not leaking or seeping oil from this spot.
On new cars I agree. My Acura gets it's done every 7250.
I would not feel comfortable with that change interval on a old high mileage engine with any oil.

 

[mr cribb]

That assumes one waits to change the oil on again a 19 year old tired engine. One that leaks from the oil pan gasket. I have never seen a Explorer with the 4.0 OHV not leaking or seeping oil from this spot.
On new cars I agree. My Acura gets it's done every 7250.
I would not feel comfortable with that change interval on a old high mileage engine with any oil.

LOL mine leaks from rear main and oil pan gasket. But it has 200k, and the leak isn't excessive, so i guess it qualifies for "seeping"

And double agree on mileage interval on that old of a vehicle.... even with running the semi-synthetic I still change at 3k-4k.

 

[Nedwreck]

I do oil changes (running synthetic) at 5000 intervals.

It's easy for me to track that way, anytime the odometer rolls past a 5 or 10 k I do it.

If I've been running hard.. 4 wheeling, taking lots of shirt trips, or the oil starts to get dark fast it's worth tossing a filter in at the 2500 mark.

It seems like my engine runs smoother, cooler (just a tad), and there is a slight increase in MPG. As another member said, YMMV of course.

I think in the "quest for 30mpg" thread, (if i remember right) Aldive had good results form running ALL synthetic fluids.. engine, trans, axles, etc.. (?)

 

[FIND]

You guys are wasting oil changing it that often. If you are uncomfortable with your oil change interval, get an oil test kit from blackstone labs or any of many other reputable oil analysis laboratories. From there you can gauge the life of your oil. Modern oil lasts a long time, even the 3k oil change interval is almost entirely unecessary unless you REALLY REALLY beat on your engine or have a poorly running engine. More than likely, that test will even pay for itself. If you know what you are looking at, you will be able to spot problems with your engine that need addressing, and at the very least, you will get a better idea of the proper oil change interval to match your average driving.

The numbers I gave you are assuming a 3k oil change interval and padding the numbers for the additional life you can expect from synthetic assuming your engine NEEDED 3k oil change intervals. If you NEED a 3k oil change interval, you will get at minimum 7500 miles out of a good (or even middle of the road) quality synthetic oil

If your pan gasket is leaking, why don't you replace it? My explorer has no leaks, it is called maintenance, which can have one of the biggest impacts on fuel economy and longevity of anything you could be doing to an engine. If you aren't going to do regular maintenance to an engine like fixing leaks, then why bother changing the oil in the first place? If you were bleeding from a deep cut would you put a band-aid on? If not, would you still eat despite the fact that you are bleeding to death?

For further discussion on oil, I recommend going on bobistheoilguy.com

 

[2TimingTom]

Here's what I did to improve my mileage. I went from getting about 16-18 mpg combined to 35 mpg in the same conditions.

Paid $1500. Bought it almost 2.5 months ago. In that time it has saved me over $220 at the pump. Insurance is only $20/month. And now I have 2 vehicles to choose from- for those that have that opportunity available to them, they'll tell you that that alone is valuable.

 

[tweakedlogic]

that's cheating

 

[Jason94sport]

Agree. The X is not my main vehicle. It's for utility for me.

 

[mr cribb]

yes that is my end goal is to pick up a gas saver. I have to get through the hard times first before I can do so.

 

[JohnnyO]

Ok thanks, Next Pay Check Definitely Getting the Exhaust done, Any suggestions for a exhaust system thats quiet like the OEM one?
Thanks for your help.

A quiet exhaust won't help your mpg. I have a Gibson cat-back system and picked up 3 mpg on the highway. City mpg is no different. The wife hates the noise, so that means it's about right. :

My suggestions for helping mpg without spending a ton of money:
Cat-back exhaust.
Magnaflow high-flow cat (since you need a new one anyway).
K&N air filter and remove the silencer from the airbox.
Fresh plugs and wires. Don't waste money on the fancy crap, just plain ol' Motorcraft or Autolite double platinums. I like NAPA wires.
Synthetic fluids everywhere. Oil, tranny, rear axle (since yours is a 2wd). I use Mobil 1 0w-30 Fuel Economy Formula oil, Mobil 1 lube in the rear axle (the front has to be done by a shop), and Mobil 1 ATF in the transfer case.
35 to 38 psi in the tires.
4 wheel alignment. If it is out of alignment that will increase drag.

Also remember that all the time you spend sitting at redlights or stuck in traffic averages in at 0 mpg. I get vastly better mpg if I keep it to 65-70 mph than when I'm running 75-80 mph. On a level highway if I keep the speed down I will get 21 to 23 mpg.

 

[Sbyrne97]

-lighter weight oil
-improved exhaust for flow
-improved intake for more air and flow
-electric fan
-improve vehicles aerodynamics
-remove weight
-drive efficiently
-tune-up

but the biggest thing would just buy a small car....would save u more money in the long run

 

[Corik]

Silencer?

A quiet exhaust won't help your mpg. I have a Gibson cat-back system and picked up 3 mpg on the highway. City mpg is no different. The wife hates the noise, so that means it's about right. :

My suggestions for helping mpg without spending a ton of money:
Cat-back exhaust.
Magnaflow high-flow cat (since you need a new one anyway).
K&N air filter and remove the silencer from the airbox.
Fresh plugs and wires. Don't waste money on the fancy crap, just plain ol' Motorcraft or Autolite double platinums. I like NAPA wires.
Synthetic fluids everywhere. Oil, tranny, rear axle (since yours is a 2wd). I use Mobil 1 0w-30 Fuel Economy Formula oil, Mobil 1 lube in the rear axle (the front has to be done by a shop), and Mobil 1 ATF in the transfer case.
35 to 38 psi in the tires.
4 wheel alignment. If it is out of alignment that will increase drag.

Also remember that all the time you spend sitting at redlights or stuck in traffic averages in at 0 mpg. I get vastly better mpg if I keep it to 65-70 mph than when I'm running 75-80 mph. On a level highway if I keep the speed down I will get 21 to 23 mpg.

I was wondering what you meant by the silencer on the air box? I know there are two lines on top of the box for the air filter. Is that where they are?

 

[mr cribb]

The wife hates the noise, so that means it's about right.

:biggthump

LOL right on!!!

I agree w/ synthetic fluids throughout.

I picked up motorcraft wires and plugs from advance auto parts. Wires cost me $50 plugs were $5ea I think. Maybe less, it's been 6 moths ago since I did mine.

I recently drove to Nashville and surrounding areas @ 60-65, and my 200k mi X did REALLY well as far as gas mileage goes. Yes I got passed many times, but I don't care.