What weighs more?

[Creager]

Wasssssup?!

Which is the heavier front-end? An Early Bronco LP Dana 44? Or a custom TTB set up, similar to what Camburg sells or what 410Fortune is running on his BII?

I’m guessing the EB 44 But do you know by how much?

The weight difference of these two front ends is a deciphering factor for me; it’s the answer to the never ending question: to go solid or to stay TTB?

The contradiction is behind my engine's torque curve; ultimately, whatever tire size I choose I would have to stay geared as low I can stand, to get the 3000-5000 RPM this OHV is begging for!

Weight is somewhat of an issue in the low-end (less then 2000 rpm), I mainly notice it when I got 3 or 4 people in the truck. It’s defiantly not a problem in 4L, it’s monstrous. But I like to have that reserve strength so I don’t have to utterly abuse my toys

If the EB LP D44 setup is maybe 100lbs heavier I can deal with that. Over 250lb difference id rather stick with the TTB. What is your opinion?

I like the TTB because it rides smooth on the street as my daily driver(esspecially without a body lift), and works fine for the type of wheeling i do. The solid axle on the otherhand would slove a lot of the noticeable weak-links with the TTB, on the street and offroad. I'm shying away from a Jeep Dana30 swap, simply because I'd feel like i was down-grading.

 

[sn0border88]

all said and done its probably pretty close. Fullwidth may be 100 heavier but as far as the ttb is concerned its a pretty close match. Not 250 tho, thats almost as much as a EBd44 weighs.

I depated c&t ttb for a while but I figured it would be just as much work and money either way and since I wouldnt be doing prerunning I may as well so solid.

 

[Creager]

I debated c&t ttb for a while but I figured it would be just as much work and money either way and since I wouldnt be doing prerunning I may as well so solid.

These are also reasons why i want to go solid. Although i would stay stock width, i like my 8.8.

Could prerunning be considered flying the HWY? jk, (on NC roads it might!) haha. The other day I figured out the first gen speedometer doesnt wrap all the way around back to 0mph, the tip of the needle contacts the bottom of the cluster-housing around ~115mph

Getting my dana35 knuckes drilled to accept dana44 spindles (and having the caliper ears cut off and replaced with K5 parts) might be pretty cheap. Machine shop cost might not be more then a $100...

I'd have to price it out, so i can see that side of the equation.

 

[sn0border88]

price wise, the c and t is the cheaper way, but its a definate science to doing the c& t and getting it right. But the d44 outers is a great idea if you want better brakes, it can be done for fairly cheap.