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I would say to get some pics of the Q-Logic ones, and copy to the best of your ability. Also, you could get some factory ones and glue on a 6.5" (diameter) x 1" (wide) x 1" (think) wood ring then fiberglass around that cutting away the plastic under the wood, for the speaker. As for the tweets...

Most likely not, it should say up to 10V output.

My Sony ES 8050X HU has a 6 band built right in, that is one of the reasons I bought it. it also have a built in 3-way crossover and 4 sets of RCAs. But enuf about my stuff, getting an eq is good, but if you haven't already looked for one, the Sony XDP 766EQ is a :bounce: BADASS :bounce: eq...

Damn, I can't read, sorry. RXs really need power, I would say at least 50w+

MTX are your best bet, but get the 6000s, they should be less than $100 each for 12s.

If the FXs are amplified, then yes. If not then no, FXs need to be power for pretty much any responce below 25Khz. I had FX5s & FX6s in my Corolla, they rocked, I was sad to see them go.

"Catch fire" LOL!!! :p

MTX, I agree. But get the 6000s rather than the 4000s, you'll wish you had if you don't.

Try to find a Metra brand one, it should have a one DIN opening and a 1/2 DIN opening, then just attach the EQ to the DIN cage and away you go. Metra part #99-5802 While I was looking I found speaker adaptors for 5-1/4 or 6-1/2 in a 5x7/6x8 opening, Metra part #82-5600 Adapts a 5...

I would say, remove the speaker then put some foam tape (double sided) all the way around were this is (speaker) frame to metal contact, then reinstall the speaker using all 4 screws, also you could drill and tap the other 2 holes, for more secure mounting.

yes, as long as it is a 2 ohm sub, 500w!, ouch what did you say? I said OUCH!! (screaming at top of lungs) As for xover points, by the type of music and your comments, I would say do about 100-110hz for a little more music going to the subs, but try it lower first then change it if you...

////Alpine MRD-M500 V12 AccuClass-D™ Mono Amplifier 500w x 1 @ 2 ohms run two subs wired in parallel That should be all that you would ever need

Go with the Infinity Kappa, best low end freq response, and good peak power handling, also most efficent (highest Signal-to-Noise)

You could also do the same with a relay, hook up the remote so that it switches on when the truck is on and off when it is off, then have the input be a "always-on" 12V source then connect the outputs to your acc. thru a fuse block. the relay will switch the power on & off to the fuse/distro...

Don't we all sometimes

TA-RUE!!

RCAs are better than line inputs, but wait the me restate that GOOD RCAs are better than line or unbalanced inputs. Most likely the (good) RCAs are shielded (from interference) getting a cleaner signal to the amp. power to batt remote to blue wire behind HU ground to body or frame RCAs...

Just find a sub that has a F3 of about 40hz in a .65ft^3, the lower the better. MTX thunder8000 have a F3 of 45hz in .63 RF HE2 DVCs have a F3 of 35hz in 1.0 RF HEs are at 35hz in 1.0 the lower the freq the better the response in that size enclosure.

What kind of amp? What kind of music?

I get 37.5w ( at 8ohms), half of 75w (at 4 ohms)

Damned ASCII art didn't work, so here goes... I am an Artiste`

Just for the record, half the resistince, double the power and it goes the other way too, as in double the resistince, half the power. 500w x 1 into 2ohms would be 250w x 1 into 4ohms or 125w x 1 into 8ohms and so on. As for you setup, I would say run both speakers (voice coils) in parallel...

I don't know about pushing on the sub, but you can get a piece of TP and hold one end and then run it over all of the seams to see if it flaps then you've got a leak. Also you could just reseal the whole thing, but wait there's more, you could then rewire and recarpet then get new subs, wait...

Most likely not, as the equipment for those controls isn't in anything but the factory Ford HUs, but there maybe a way to wire them to do something else, neons or something, but as I don't have them I don't know about the wiring for them. Good Luck with it...

Sorry about the code thing, but I would just go buy a new better more powerful HU. Oh well...