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Bad valve is possible. If you can borrow a cylinder leak down tester you can isolate intake or exhaust valve or rings by listening to where the air leaks out under test.

Blue wire is generally for a power antenna or an antenna booster

In addition to the above, consider replacing the bypass hose that connects the housing to the water pump at the same time. Motocraft PN F77Z8548AF

Do a compression check

The Moog ones don't have the parking brake shoes installed which was the biggest pain of the job!

This and a 10 pound sledgehammer gets out most bolted in wheel bearing assemblies

Getting a shop to press it in may be easier in some places. After the pain I went through doing this job, I will just buy the assembly and be done with it. To each their own.

I just did this job on my 04 exploder with the 4.0L (changed all timing parts, including the balance shaft items) what a pain! Hoping to get the engine back in this week. I used Cloyes parts

Thanks for the suggestion. I did replace the Throttle Body a year ago for codes but since it's off now will be a good time to clean it.

When I took mine apart it was the rear one that was toast. Front one was ok. I replaced everything since I ended up taking the engine out

It gets filled with oil once running that should greatly reduce the movement once the engine is running. When you install it the tensioner is just spring loaded so it can move.

I've fixed three Subaru's with OEM coil packs after the original owners spent $$$$ in parts trying to fix them.

Thanks for the update!

Doing the dreaded death rattle fix (timing chain guide replacement) and have noticed the intake manifold and cylinder head intakes are covered in a film of what appears to be carbon. Does this indicate another or a more serious issue?

Next time I have to do one I'm using one of these (Dorman Loaded Rear Knuckle)

My 04 with 240k rear timing chain guide broke recently. 5k fully synthetic oil changes and Motocraft filter. Nothing lasts forever I guess

I ended up buying a Ford OEM unit since I didn't get any replies

So I searched all the threads on the rear outer tie rod ends and it seems the Dorman, Moog and other aftermarket units rub when installed on Explorer with 16 inch factory aluminum rims. Ford has these on back order. Has anyone found any aftermarket units that will fit Explorers with 16 inch...

That sounds like it may be important (holding the body to the frame! I take it a tire shop may not be the best option to take a look (other than they have a lift). Thanks for the response.

Junkyard is the best option for the long bolts. IIRC the dealer wanted some ridiculous price.

Better photo

Here is the back side of the part

Anyone have an idea of where this may have come from? I looked at the control arms, etc from the ground but don't see any place obvious that this may have came from. Trying to decide how serious it is. My thought is to take it to a local tire shop and see if they can identify it.

Also just do drain and refills, not flushes as those can cause transmission issues down the road.

I bought an actuator from Heater Treater (with the replacement door) but elected to only install the actuator as the door was way more effort that I wanted to go through. It is $65 + shipping so you may want to consider that option. They are located here...