Search results

If it's running fine on starting fluid I think you can rule out the crank position sensor. Sounds like you have a fuel problem. Have you checked your fuel pressure?

This is on my list to do as well and here's a link I had bookmarked unfortunately the pics are now gone because if the Photobucket debacle. 2nd gen steering upgrade

Great. Thanks for the info. Now if I could just find a pin out diagram for the headlight switch. . .

I've just removed my instrument cluster bezel ( the piece the headlight switch and dimmer is attached to) because my headlight switch is bad. But also all the screw bosses on the bezel are broken and the knob has been the only thing from keeping the switch in the dash. I want to see if I can...

Had a no start issue with mine and everything with a VOM checked out ok the starter still wouldn't work. I resigned myself to guessing the starter was no good and installed a new one and still wouldn't start. Visually everything looked good. Cut the heat shrink away from the hot connector wire...

I did the solo bleed job with a power bleeder from Harbor Freight. It worked well with the exception of the contraption that was supposed to hold a bottle if brake fluid upside down and keep the reservoir full. I did use a bit of Teflon tape on the bleeder screws and kept a close eye on the...

4X4 or AWD shouldn't matter as long as the ratio is the same. I'd be curious about how the front diff got damaged.

You're welcome. Hopefully it helps. Good luck.

These guys here?https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-23744-Water-Pump/dp/B000630ATC And this thread might help.http://classicbroncos.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-132467.html And this one had some pics.http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/water-pump-bolt-placement-schematic.422918/

Maybe gunk in the tank has clogged the filter on the fuel pump? I'd test the pressure at the fuel rail with a gauge so you know exactly what you got. Or you could pop the line off at the fuel filter and attach a piece of hose running into a container and check for flow. Either way if the pump...

If it starts and barely runs I'd be thinking a fuel problem. Maybe the filter is shot and not flowing enough volume? When you say barely running could you elaborate? Maybe a bad mass air sensor and it's running too rich? Have you tried scanning for codes?

Transfer case takes Motorcraft XL-12 transfer case fluid. I had sort of a similar problem with my Ex which sat for two years with the steering pumped out the PS fluid reservoir and the fluid was dark grey. Refilled, short drive with a few lock to lock figure 8s in a local parking lot and...

I know stainless cat-back systems are out there. I've got a Gibson on my Ranger and it fit great and it's been on the there about 7 years now. I don't know what options are out there for the cat pipes. I would guess a goodstock replacement would probably last the rest of the life of the truck...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379997

#3 sounds like it could be the vacuum powered actuators for the hvac system. Does it only do it when you first start it up?

Does the torque converter on the 95s have a drain plug? If so I'd drain that as well.

Without being able to hear it it's going to be hard to tell. But I'm betting on it being a exhaust manifold leak. Does it get louder or quieter when it warms up? My Explorer has a passenger side (and probably driver's side though not as bad) exhaust manifold leak. It's pretty loud when I first...

There's a 10A fuse just before the plug that plugged into the original ballast. The fuse holder is wrapped in black foam. It's about two or three inches away from the plug.

It is a April Fools post. But I also find it annoying that the pattern is different from one side to the other. I also get why it's not.

I've got a 96 V8 AWD Explorer. Since I've got it I've been searching the internet and local junkyards for a right hand pair of alloy wheels. The directional pattern is correct on the driver's side but backwards on the passenger's side. :( Why are these wheels so hard to find?

Also check the steering intermediate shaft it has a joint at the bottom that attaches to the rack.

That could be a bad hub or upper ball joint or both. Either is not safe. Jack the truck up and check the hub by grabbing the tire a 12&6 and see if there's any play. A search on here will show you how to check ball joints. I'm not sure how the 4x4 systems work on these (mine is 5.0 AWD) do...

My only reason thinking it was the A/C compressor was because of the steady cycling and maybe it was somehow effecting the P/S pump. Re-reading through your post makes me think I'm way off. Like XLTrunner said its probably driveline related and his suggestion sounds like a good one to help...

Cant remember what clutch I put in my Ranger but I used the Perfection Clutch slave cylinder. It has a different line connection than stock. The stock one can be a real bugger.

Is he running the defroster? Could be the A/C compressor?