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Try rotating your tyres, could be separation. I had similar sound, resulted in a blow out. Sound went once new tyres fitted.

Speeds 1,2 &3 are controlled by relay in bulkhead fuse/relay box, drivers side. High speed (4) relay which is ok is near/under alternator. Check out relay at bulkhead, maybe this is your problem.

This is another fuel pump problem, the pump is going out or other fuel supply problem.

Had a similar problem, repaired mine. You need to cut off fitting at spring lock to fit nylon line and protective cover. The other end I put new fitting to fuel filter. Parts used are below.

Compressor recycling times indicate low on refrigerant.

On my Sport Trac that line goes to heater control valve on the engine underneath the alternator.

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem, a split hose inside tank or fuel pump is on its way out.

Here's a photo of 12 mm bolt hole location.

Yes I torqued jackshaft bolts first, as the cam bolts are only holding cam shaft sprockets in free spin state. What you must make sure of is that crankshaft is at TDC for number one cylinder ie key way is straight up. For crankshaft bolt I imobilised the flex plate.

Check out Cloyes youtube video, it's shortish and details timing process. There's no 29 mm socket needed, maybe you're meaning cam shaft bolt which is 19 mm. Lifting engine out, on front of head, passenger side there is 12 mm threaded hole in head. On rear of head drivers side there is also a...

I'd expect your engine to be severely damaged, requiring replacement. Cost wise it's more than 1000 just for labour!

Connecting rod to crankshaft has parted and smashed a hole in upper oil pan/ cradle. You must have heard some loud noise to produce such damage?

My ac line was ok, if your ac was working I see no need to replace. Except for all 'O' rings. As an aside, if you still have hood in place it really restricts access to fire wall bolts etc.

The only good thing is all other jobs will seem easy after this marathon!!!

Hi Phil, you're finding what I did, once you get into this massive job many more systems have to be dealt with. AC line to and from compressor, at drier disconnect spring lock fitting(same as fuel line but bigger) at compressor one bolt at condenser one nut. Plus bracket on timing cover. I...

The slack side is the side where the tensioner presses, the side that tends to break being all plastic in the rear cassette is the traction side. When timing the engine the free spin of chain tightens the traction side with timing set tensioner. Any slack is taken up by the hydraulic tensioners...

Reversing tightening sequence is fine, after you have cracked all the bolts.

I did read that link, bravo to you, it's a great modification. I bet you surprise many boy racers! Cause of my tick, plus plastic seems prematurely worn

Cloyes timing set I used first time didn't fail, just had a tick after 1500 miles. I replaced crankshaft bearings, con rod bearing (used ARP con rod bolts), piston rings. At 68 I wasn't prepared to accept a noise that could come back to bite me in 3 or 4 years down the road, when I may be too...

You will need torque to yield bolts for jackshaft and harmonic balancer pulley.

Seriously, use Ford timing components. Last July I did all timing parts & used Cloyes. About 6 months later I'd got a tick tick tick at front of engine. I was allover the truck like a rash, the noise hard to pinpoint as it seemed to be underneath, on the top etc etc. I took the engine out this...

While you're in the groove, crack the cylinder head bolts before you take the engine out. They are also very tight and require a long breaker bar, it will be a more difficult fight on an engine stand!

I've read about this bag, but my ST never had one, maybe coz it's an export model?

If my memory serves me correctly, once single bolt on dipstick tube is removed it pulls out with some effort. When reinstalling engine put dipstick tube in place before engine in truck, it's really difficult to see where it goes if engine is back in place.

Hi Phil, the starter wiring has a Christmas tree plastic clip attached to engine holding wiring. I also couldn't get it out, just detach with some force from plastic, once engine is out this will "unscrew". I didn't use this attachment when I returned wiring to starter. There is also a clip...