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I still need to get me tune finished but I would love to just watch the show.

Haven't updated in a long while. I haven't been able to really do anything recently. Life is hectic sometimes. The only real update is that I still need my tune finalized and I need a new ring and pinion. Lots of slop in the rear now. I'm also looking at Upgrading my brakes. They really are...

If I could only get my tune finalized. My laptop went down and then the transmission went. Still haven't replaced the laptop yet.

Yeah. My trans was killing the times. I'll definitely update everyone when I get to run it. Hopefully soon.

My exhaust is pretty close to the pan but I think It'll be fine. Also installed a new flexible transmission tube and dipstick.

Haven't updated since I finished the transmission build. It's way quicker than it was. The extra frictions(Raybestos Stage1) and jmod really improved it. The stall converter flashes at 2500. Less than I was told but it works well. Added a drain to the pan. That was a no brainer. Next up is a...

Anyone have a link for a quality balancer that will work for the explorer? I'm slowly being talked into upping the whp. I was told that a quality balancer and of course a great tune is key.

I'm basically building this https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/transmission-4r70w-aode-level-3-red-direct-power-pack-diode-kit-black-carbon-fiber-band-billet-shaft-10-converter/ But with raybestos gpz frictions and the J-Mod instead of the shift kit

Pic

Here's the shaft and double ujoint I put together. Like I said. It fits inside of the lower, splined side of the factory shaft.

I'll try to explain. This picture is the factory explorer shaft. On the left is the splined joint that goes to the rack. The right side slips over the steering shaft that comes out of the firewall. Those two pieces fit one inside the other. The lower section (splined side) slips inside the...

I'm wanting to say it's a Sweet mfg. It's a double u-joint. 3/4" double D to 3/4 double D. The splines are on the rack and pinion side. I just used the factory inner shaft for that.

I read that I can use a switch to control lockup (on/off). Know anything about it?

Precisely. I've already found everything I'm going to build it with. It sucks though, I won't be able to buy a good stall converter like I wanted to. Going with a 2500 stall from Monster. With having to buy everything else, I just won't have the funds for a good quality one.

Didn't realize I didn't update you guys here. My transmission is dead. Dumping fluid from the bellhousing and is constantly in forward gear and whatever gear I select. I was hoping that I just blew the pump gasket allowing fluid to be constantly pumped into the forward circuit. I think I Welded...

Wow. Great sounding build so far. Glad I found this. I love the converter choice.

Heres a pic of the log. Red line is rpm Green is vehicle speed

Definitely wheel spin. One of my friends just stuck his phone out the window and filmed it. Its worse now too. I ramped up the gain to keep 7psi in higher rpm and it definitely made it spin more.

Torrie said that he put as much pressure there as he could. I adjusted the gain on my boost controller to ramp up the boost at higher rpm (it was falling down to 5psi or less) and got it to stay at 6.5-7psi. After that it definitely feels like wheel spin. I didnt have my laptop with me but...

Yeah.thats what im afraid of. Im gonna take it out tomorrow to check again. The green line is vehicle speed. It jumps around at the same time as the shift. Not sure if that is reading from wheel speed or not. The yellow line is load. Looks like it drops a little at the same point.

Much better(TPS is dark blue) . But look at that long 1-2 shift. Its starting at the 13sec mark and finally shifting at 14.5sec. (red line is rpm) not sure if its the trans or lack of traction.

To be more clear about the voltage reading. It reads from .97v-4.75v at wot.

It was the wiring. Yes. It is a GM tps. I just need to solder everything and finish my harness. Thanks.

Yeah. I did exactly that. Everything seems Yep. Checked voltage both ways and it worked fine but as soon as I moved the wires, it dropped down to .54v from 4.75v I'll be soldering everything tonight. I've put it off for too long already.

Red= engine speed Purple= Spark Green= vehicle speed Blue = throttle position Throttle position goes crazy(pedal to floor) at 1-2 shift.(red vertical line)