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Had the exact same problem, a new motorcraft fan clutch fixed it immediately. I did everything else so I narrowed it down to it being the fan clutch, along with the fact I would very occasionally get a code for the fan clutch having a communication problem

Press the setup and reset keys together with the ignition off and then turn the ignition to the on position while continuing to hold the buttons.

On the driver side foot well, there is a large grommet that runs a ton of wires through it, it's right by the brake booster on the other side in the engine compartment, I just used that one, cut it with a knife a little bit then snaked the wire through, if you can't see it in the engine...

I had this exact issue, only when I jiggled the key it would only sometimes trigger it/turn it off, replacing the ignition switch is most likely the fix, it's made out of plastic and the metal shaft that comes from the ignition cylinder tears up the notch on the switch over time, it's on the...

I've had a 16psi cap on mine for the last year and a half, new radiator was put in about 6 months before that, and I've had no leak issues! My radiator seems to be holding up just fine, If it does eventually go, then I'll probably just replace it with that ALLOYWORKS aluminum radiator that is...

Good luck!

The 3.5 in the f150 isn't like the 11-19 explorers, maybe you could use one of those? It uses the 6r80 like ours do so.

Does it drive any nicer now?

I think ours is mostly the same on the dipstick, although I don't know if it would still be compatible with this kit, I mean worst case you could always try it and then send it back? If it was made for the 6r80 I would think it should work for the 6r60 though depending on your explorer year

Wow that's surprising to be honest, I guess these engines really just put out that much heat then, or it's the inefficiency of the fan clutch design, and I used motorcraft everything except for the thermostat cause it was like $20-30 which is insane for a thermostat. I guess I get to do a full...

My scan tool can read mode 6 data, so that might work but I'm not sure, I'll have to look into what it can show me. Hopefully I just have a vacuum leak somewhere, considering my high idle I must have one at least, I'll just have to check for any leaks with some smoke

Yes, I haven't had any new codes for at least 8 months and the most recent was for the fan clutch, roughly 3 weeks ago I replaced my fan clutch, water pump, and I'd say 95% of the coolant, and actually when it had those random split second spikes, nothing happened, that's why Im thinking it must...

Nope, it never actually overheated, but would get somewhat hot going up grades, I've thought it could be the wiring harness too but I honestly have no idea where to start looking, other than just replacing the whole harness which is a nightmare

Roughly 20mpg the whole way which was nice, however when monitoring my coolant temperature with my scan tool, I noticed it would have random drops to -40 and sometimes jumps to 234 and 304, even once with the engine off it jumped to 304, every time was only for a split second, is this a bad...

Good to know! Thank you! And as far as any other fluid except engine oil I would definitely only use ford fluids.

Oh that's interesting I didn't know that, now I'm definitely gonna double press every time! Thanks!

No, it's part of the system, it tells you it's locked.

As a side note, the only reason I initially used Prestone is because I didn't think about the coolant type when I bought it and I wasn't about to waste the money I had already spent on it since it was a concentrate and I had already mixed it 50/50

I've been researching this for about an hour now and I keep getting conflicting answers, do our trucks really need the ford/g05 gold coolant? Or is something like what I'm using (prestone universal green) okay? As far as I've read they are basically the exact same, neither them have silicates or...

I have an 06 v8, and i was getting an issue where at idle if i sat for say 5-10 min, my coolant temperature would start rising higher and higher, it would get up to 225 and at that point id either turn the heat on full blast in fear of the engine overheating, and or start driving again, turns...

Sounds like a vacuum issue, or a wiring harness issue, or even possibly a computer issue. The problem is, these trucks have so many ghosts in them when they get older it's hard to figure out what is going on, also just because they are known to affect the transmission when they go bad, have you...

I only say that because these symptoms are pretty random and at least with my knowledge I don't know how they could be connected, or if they even are.

Almost sounds like it could be a wiring/computer issue, have you checked your wire harness?

Finally after almost rear ending someone due to my pads being glazed and my rotors way past their wear limit, I replaced all 4 rotors, pads, and the front caliper guide pins and bolts (one stripped so bad I had to file it down and hammer a smaller socket onto it) I've had them installed for...

i wonder if these die quickly like the MSD coils do on our engines, ive always heard motorcraft was the best option