Search results

A leaking pressure regulator will cause exactly your issues, PLUS it may have contributed to failure of the oxygen sensor. And caused the codes. Always best to test and verify rather than toss parts at it. I'll try to pay closer attention next time and respond quicker! Blue smoke out the...

1992 Explorer uses an eccentric on the upper ball joint, not the bolt/washer setup. You will save time, money and hassle by letting the alignment tech do this, since you need to know the alignment angles to determine which eccentric is needed to correct the camber/caster. Someone who has...

First, make sure you have stop lights. If these don't work, the cruise control will not engage. Second, check the cable where it attaches to the throttle body. Ford had a campaign out for this cable way back when, because of breakeage and sticking. Third, beyond these two items you may...

The buzzing you hear is most likely the lock actuator spinning it's gears because it is broken. If the actuator doesn't work, thekeypad will not unlock that door either. Many times if the actuator becomes stuck, the key will not unlock it either. Put simply, you need a lock actuator in...

What problem are you having?

Lesson learned, fatshady?

RCM is under the center console

should be numbers stamped on top of the eccentric, unless someone has beaten the what out of it. There is no "stock" part, depends on where the caster/camber are at the time of allignment

idle is controlled by the computer. Might have a sticking idle control valve, or massive vacuum leak

there is a better chance the problem is in the multifunction switch on steering column. The contacts wear and build high resistance. You probably don't have any intermittent functions either.

Find the tie rods on each side and rotate them with a wrench or pliers, many times the outer tie rods dry out over time and can make noise. You should be able to tell if it is the tie rods by rotating, they may even be hard to rotate. Could also be a ball joint worn or dried up.

IIRC, cam sensor is top rear of motor, behind intake manifold. Probably just the sensor, but check inside the synchronizer for any pieces that may have fallen out of the sensor. This sensor could cause the symptoms you describe.

Being a long career auto tech, I understand your predicament and apologize for the industry in general, although I don't include myself in this clowns category. There are just too many of these crooks out there giving a bad rap to those of us who treat consumers as loyal customers. HOWEVER...

Random misfire code is usually a P0300. Anything in the range of P0301-308 indicates a specific cylinder. The 5.0 is prone to spark plug wire problems. A random misfire can be just about anything, further checking with a scan tool should reveal a clue. There is mode 6 data which can help narrow...

1 is battery voltage to the MAF 2 is MAF ground 3 is reference voltage (5.0V) 5.66 is a little high but acceptable 4 is the MAF signal, with the sensor disconnected or the engine off this should be 0. With the engine running it will read between .5V and about 4.0V depending on engine rpm...

What is the code?

So what makes him an idiot? He sells parts, he doesn't fix cars. Anyone going to a parts store for diagnosis is just asking to spend needless money in the first place. If you want to know how to diagnose and fix your own problems, get some training, buy a manual.

Many do have one sensor for both inputs. If you have a separate two wire sensor in the intake duct, that is an IAT.

Intake air temp, or IAT

I'm thinking your best bet is to disconnect everything inside the door and pull the wire loom out of the door. However, you shouldn't have to remove the door to change the hinges.

Many shops prefer you buy the parts from them, we can offer a full warranty parts and labor. If you bring your own parts, again most shops will offer you no warranty on either. I realize sometimes this is one way to save money, but look at it this way: Would you take your own bacon and eggs...

Yes, the water pump pulley is smooth because the back side of the belt rides on this pulley. Most of the alignment issues I have run into involved the power steering pulley, either walking on the pump shaft, or the pump shaft moves in and out too much. My shop NEVER uses reman water pumps...

The wiper arm might have moved on the shaft. Pull the cover off the mounting point and check the nut. You might have the wiper arm problem where the blade skips have the window? Or is the arm only going half way? If it seems to lift off the glass, you will need to replace the wiper arm, Ford...

I have heard of several supposedly quick fixes for this blend door problem, but not the one you linked. I don't know how long it took him to do that setup, but I am sure I could do the job right, replace the plenum, and do it in less time as he did that "repair". But I relaize some don't want to...

Is this Ranger carbureted or injected? If injected you might be losing injector pulse.