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I think you'd be best off to find a 2001 Explorer or Mountaineer then completely gut the Sport Trac to transfer *everything* electronic, including the wiring. Splice in extensions to the rear for the tail lights. Then you know it's all going to work exactly as it did in the donor, with no...

At least 2018.

I don't know why Ford put a cam synchronizer on these. They have the crank trigger. Had a cam synchro physically break its magnetic sensor two times on the same engine and it made not a bit of difference in how it ran. No idea how the thing broke. I just changed the top part of the unit. There's...

You're not transplanting the AWD transfer case to the manual trans? It's so nice in snow, just *goes forward* no muss no fuss. I rebuilt one for a 1997 Mountaineer. There's a couple of minor variants that use slightly different chain and sprocket widths. Had to replace the input shaft which was...

The new real refrigerator coolers use a fist sized compressor based on designs made for a canceled US Military project. Since companies had already done the R&D they put them into production for civilian uses. Adam Savage recently used one to build a refrigerated cooling system in a backpack...

These ratchets are the ideal tools for R&R on transfer cases for getting to the upper bolts, and other places I've had to work around a corner. Enabled a transfer case rebuild on a 98 Mountaineer without having to remove the exhaust just to get at one bolt. I went up and over from the left side...

Sounds like Ford. Offer a bunch of options the first year or two then start taking them away. Like the 1996 Taurus and Sable had a fancy sound system option with a subwoofer that year only. It was gone for 1997. Then they cut more and more off the options list. For 2000 they went so far as to...

I figure the best way to ensure everything works properly would be to find a 2001 V8 AWD Explorer or Mountaineer and swap *everything* over, wiring harnesses and all. But that would definitely not support that computer controlled rear window. Been thinking on the possibility of just wiring it up...

Nope. No idea what the boot kit part number is for the CV joint on the rear of the front drive shaft for an AWD Explorer or Mountaineer. O'Reilly, NAPA, or Autozone may be able to look it up, if they still can order those parts separately. Unless you can verify that the boot has failed recently...

If you have AWD you don't want to run mis-matched tires. That's how you ruin the viscous coupling in the transfer case.

The ring is on the outside/end of the splined shaft that pokes into the diff. I had no problems taking them out, just a quick pop with a BFS (Big eFfing Screwdriver) and the new ones popped in easy, after I swapped the old ring onto the one.

I had to remove the snap ring from the old axle and use it to replace the one on the new axle because the new one was a cheap POS piece of wire that wouldn't stay tight enough to allow the axle to slide all the way into the diff. With the old ring on it just popped right in.

You may have trashed the new hub's bearings with that short drive without the nut torqued down.

They did that. It was called the Explorer Sport Trac, which in its first version was V6 only. Despite having a front end nearly identical to the Explorer Sport, the parts are very different. Even the fog lamps that look the same from the outside are completely different units. If Ford had...

Ford majorly screwed up by never offering the 302 in the 2 door Explorer Sport. Since when does a V6 say "Sport" in any American vehicle? Par for the Ford course along with not offering all the DeLuxe goodies (like dual lighted sun visors) from the Explorer and Mountaineer on the Sport Trac, or...

New hubs and shafts look great. Too bad they don't stay shiny. After getting everything back together and wheels on the ground, I torqued the hub nuts to 150 pounds, high as my wrench goes. Then I used my longest bar and got another 1/8th turn on the nuts. Right side went much quicker than the...

I just put a chisel on one edge and drove the ring through the hub hole. Once it was knocked loose I was able to get hold of it and pull it back through the hole, then toss it onto my dumpster. Looks to me like the main function of that metal piece is to hold whatever water gets between it and...

I'm in the middle of shaft and hub replacement on a 220K mile 1998 V8 AWD Mountaineer. No leaks from the axle seals! Looks like I'll have to pinch down the clip on the left side axle because it WILL NOT go in. Curious thing, the old OEM axle had no clip, just an empty groove. Edit: I took the...

Are these proper trucks or more of those front drive based... things?

So the Sport Trac will be back, but won't be called that. No V8's? Pttthhhhh!

This sideways bending ratchet will save you a ton of time removing the TC from the transmission. I found the easiest way to get to the upper right bolt was using this ratchet from over the top, from the left side. 3/8 in. Drive Indexable Head Ratchet Here's the 1/2" driver version 1/2 in. Drive...

On the TC I rebuilt, the input shaft was slightly bent, which had messed up a bearing. So it got a new input shaft and bearing, plus a regular rebuild kit, new chain and VC. Been great ever since. It had loud clunks from the chain being stretched. Possibly it was attempting to jump teeth, which...

The cam sensor isn't too difficult to replace. Take the two ignition coils off their bracket and the two bolts that hold the sensor can be reached with a long 1/4" drive extension. I bought a 1997 Mountaineer with a bad transmission. Thinking of using it to do a total donor swap of all the...

That works, but you still have a phone or other device you're verboten to touch while driving in most States. That's why a standalone device, controlled by the head unit CD changer controls, would be so nice.

Connects through the stock CD changer plug on the various things people have made. If using an aftermarket unit, just get one that plays MP3 off a CD-R or USB flash drive.