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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
I'm new to the Ex scene. To get the best performance/gas mileage out of my explorer I need to do what?
I have a
96 xlt v6 it's been kept in good shape and everything is running fine. 92k.
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Nick,
Minor power mods such as intake and exhaust will help you on the performance end. If you can control the use of your right foot they should help with mileage, too
ez
1. do regular mantenece on it. *oil, spark plugs, tranny fluid, what not...*
2. Minor mods such as intake, exhaust will help out quite a bit.
3. DON'T drive with a lead foot!
you can get great gas milage for a long time ...i mean my 92 is still getting about 17mpg city, and 21 hwy.....and it turns 11 years old next month!
I'm still pretty young but I work with alot of teenager so I have to be an example to them. I beat the occasional rice burner off the line every now and again but over all I'm easy on the pedal.
So with the intake and minor mods what's the big hype with the oil/fluids? Synthetic or regular? I bought the explorer in position to pay for gas I knew it was coming and I'm not looking for 30mpg but just a nice running machine is what I'm asking for.
Now where do I find info on the mods? How easy are they to do? (I'm fairly literate with cars) and who is good to buy from?
Here's my little tuneup list I've come up with. Some of it may apply to you, some of it may not. I realize this list is extensive, but all of this can be done at home with a short list of tools. It may benefit you to purchase a code scanner w/monitoring software as well to gain peak performance. They are in no particular order.
These apply to the 4.0 OHV:
1.Change oil and filter (Motorcraft Fl1A filter and possibly synthetic oil)
2.Run a whole bottle of seafoam through the engine
3.Run a whole bottle of seafoam through the gas tank
4.Replace plugs and wires (motorcraft double plat plugs and your choice of quality wires)
5.Clean/replace IAC
6.Check vacuum pressure (also can test with propane)
7.Run fuel pressure tests
8.Clean/Replace MAF
9.Replace tranny fluid and filter (maybe add cooler)
10.Clean throttle body, upper intake, throttle plate, and intake pipe/air filter housing with carb spray
11.Replace TPS
12.Replace Oxygen sensors
13.Replace Air filter
14.Replace fuel filter
15.Replace PCV valve
16.Throttle Cable fix
17.Retighten intake manifold bolts
18.Clean IAT
Our 0W-30 will cut your pump drag down significantly. ther are several others here using it. The 5W-30 is great too but the Amsoil Series 2000 is the best all around for efficency. Of course I will recommend our drop in foam/oiled air filters, the Synthetic Gear lube (more significant than the motor oil and guaranteed for life), and the ATF. I sell all oil at cost and if you do it all I'll throw in the P.I. for free.
(PI is our Performance improver. keeps your injectors clean, prevents knock, and will add a few miles per tank too.. one 16 oz. bottle treats 160 gallons of gas but the first time you use 6 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel.
I am a sponsor of this forum, email me from the website at www.syntheticwarehouse.com and I'll be more than glad to help!
Just FYI, sometimes switching to synthetic fluids (mainly motor) will open up your seals and cause oil leaks. Your tranny and rearend most likely already have synthetic blend fluids.
I would be a liar if I told you that switching over to synthetics could not possibly cause leaks around seals and gaskets. However, anyone who gives you the impression that this is the most likely outcome is either misinformed or lying themselves. Here is the whole story in easy to understand terms.
Synthetic blends are not the same as syntheticm usually have less than 4% synthetic in them.
The temperature reduction Amsoil causes in the automatic transmission in addition to another factor actually prevents leakage of the seals and preserves them. Amsoil states their motoroils will not cause leaks to engine gaskets in good condition. If you start early it's good insurance to prevent leaks in the future as there are additives to prevent this. I ran the 10W-30 in a 64 Corvair van after a rebuild/re-seal and never had leaks. When I sold it the guy that bought the van couldn't believe it. As a Dealer we get bulletins and a magazine that keeps us informed to the status of the other oils in the industry. There are more differences between brands that you could ever shake a stick at. 30 years in the industry is why I begun to use Amsoil.
At 92K you've already missed the best window of opportunity for switching to synth. oil. Be aware that if you switch now you may start some leaks by cleaning out accumulated junk out of the engine. If its strong and the body's in good shape it could still be worth doing, but I would stick with a good quality semi-synth. motor oil instead. Usually you want to make the switch to synth. by 25K-20K unless mfg. recommends different.
If it doesn't have a tranny cooler, install the biggest one that fits ASAP. Don't bother with synth. tranny fluid with 92K on it. The cooler won't increase mpg but will likely keep the tranny going far longer. Many have pucked by 92K
Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars.
Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ was tested in dozens of industry standard and OEM tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made.
ExxonMobil engineers are wary of conventional oils that tout their use of additional seal-swelling agents. With extended use, these agents can over-soften engine seals, resulting in leaks. More to the point, an oil additive will not rejuvenate worn or damaged seals. The damaged seal may have been caused by a worn rotating metal component in the engine.
If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™. ExxonMobil also always recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use.
i beg to differ guys. i started running amsoil in my 89 F150 at 98k. it ran great didn't cause the engine to leak. but we aware that amsoil is like a solvent and WILL clean out deposits that have accumulated and may cause it to leak. BUT as i've seen happen if it leaks, you may (if you can afford to) keep putting it in and see if the gaskets can be reconditioned. and if you have a high mileage engine i would suggest changing valve cover gaskets and lower intake manifold gaskets and then putting it in. I'm a dealer for amsoil and i've done my research and i believe its the best way to go. don't waste your money with mobil one or other synthetics go with the best or stick with regular oil and lube.
Originally posted by Jason_25 Here's my little tuneup list I've come up with. Some of it may apply to you, some of it may not. I realize this list is extensive, but all of this can be done at home with a short list of tools. It may benefit you to purchase a code scanner w/monitoring software as well to gain peak performance. They are in no particular order.
I use Amsoil Series 2000 0w30 with an Amsoil filter.
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