Exproblems
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- April 17, 2011
- Messages
- 1,681
- Reaction score
- 20
- City, State
- Orchard Park, N.Y.
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '05 Explorer XLT 4.0L
A while ago when I was gathering info on the "Air Box Modification", I couldn't find any pics from anyone on the removal of the air filter box. So I decided to put some up today, just so others in the future have an idea of how to remove the air filter box in case they have a need to.
You can start by flipping open the (2) air box lid tabs located on the right hand side of the box. The other end of the air box lid has (2) protruding tabs that side into slots built into the bottom half of the air box. Next, unplug the MAF sensor wire harness by carefully sliding open the small red tab, then unplugging the head of the plug harness from the MAF sensor. You can leave the MAF sensor itself attached the top half of the air box cover housing, unless you need to give it a cleaning with MAF sensor spray, then just remove the (2) torx screws that hold it in place. Next, loosen the clamp in the air tubing just past the MAF sensor and pull the air tubing off of the neck to the top portion of the air box. Now you can remove or lift off the air filter box lid and place it in a safe place, remembering the MAF sensor is still attached to it. Remove the air filter next.
Now to remove the bottom half of the air filter box, you need to spray some lubricant (EX. WD-40) on the (2) inner fender side rubber grommets that stick out of the side of the air box and the (2) that protrude from the bottom of the air box itself. If you look into the bottom of the air box, you will see (2) recessed holes in the bottom of the box. These are the (2) bottom attached, push in plastic prongs that seat into the lower grommets, spray them up the best that you can. Now to remove the air box, pull upwards on the box, while wiggling it side to side as you lift. You have to try to unplug the bottom grommets and the side wall grommets at the same time. It’s a tight fit in there, but it will come out. Use the first photo below, to see what you are working with in the way of those side and bottom grommets.
This next photo below is of the removed air box and what sits underneath it. You can see the 2 bottom grommets that sit in the fender wheel well and there are 2 holes in the inner fender well for those 2 side grommets on the air box. You will also see that a wiring harness runs underneath the air box and what I believe to be, 2 small rubber hoses which carry windshield washer fluid from the reservoir to the nozzles on the hood. If you look towards the lower, center left hand side of the photo, you will see an electrical ground wire attached to the inner fender well. You may need to loosen it (I did) and turn it towards the front of the vehicle, which will give you more room to re-install the air box.
The next photo below shows you what sits behind the air box inlet nozzle where it meets the front support wall right behind the passenger side headlight assembly. You can see that a headlight wiring harness runs thru the opening for the air box nozzle meeting point at the support wall. If you look at the air box nozzle, you will see it has a tapered edge on the bottom side of it to allow room for that headlight wiring harness to fit thru that opening in the wall.
What surprised me when looking at the opening thru the front support wall , was that it was located right behind the headlight assembly, with wiring harnesses running thru there. It made me wonder just how much air flow can really get thru that congested opening and to the engine. Might help explain the poor gas mileage I get.
Re-installation of the air box and its other components is reverse of removal.
You can start by flipping open the (2) air box lid tabs located on the right hand side of the box. The other end of the air box lid has (2) protruding tabs that side into slots built into the bottom half of the air box. Next, unplug the MAF sensor wire harness by carefully sliding open the small red tab, then unplugging the head of the plug harness from the MAF sensor. You can leave the MAF sensor itself attached the top half of the air box cover housing, unless you need to give it a cleaning with MAF sensor spray, then just remove the (2) torx screws that hold it in place. Next, loosen the clamp in the air tubing just past the MAF sensor and pull the air tubing off of the neck to the top portion of the air box. Now you can remove or lift off the air filter box lid and place it in a safe place, remembering the MAF sensor is still attached to it. Remove the air filter next.
Now to remove the bottom half of the air filter box, you need to spray some lubricant (EX. WD-40) on the (2) inner fender side rubber grommets that stick out of the side of the air box and the (2) that protrude from the bottom of the air box itself. If you look into the bottom of the air box, you will see (2) recessed holes in the bottom of the box. These are the (2) bottom attached, push in plastic prongs that seat into the lower grommets, spray them up the best that you can. Now to remove the air box, pull upwards on the box, while wiggling it side to side as you lift. You have to try to unplug the bottom grommets and the side wall grommets at the same time. It’s a tight fit in there, but it will come out. Use the first photo below, to see what you are working with in the way of those side and bottom grommets.
This next photo below is of the removed air box and what sits underneath it. You can see the 2 bottom grommets that sit in the fender wheel well and there are 2 holes in the inner fender well for those 2 side grommets on the air box. You will also see that a wiring harness runs underneath the air box and what I believe to be, 2 small rubber hoses which carry windshield washer fluid from the reservoir to the nozzles on the hood. If you look towards the lower, center left hand side of the photo, you will see an electrical ground wire attached to the inner fender well. You may need to loosen it (I did) and turn it towards the front of the vehicle, which will give you more room to re-install the air box.
The next photo below shows you what sits behind the air box inlet nozzle where it meets the front support wall right behind the passenger side headlight assembly. You can see that a headlight wiring harness runs thru the opening for the air box nozzle meeting point at the support wall. If you look at the air box nozzle, you will see it has a tapered edge on the bottom side of it to allow room for that headlight wiring harness to fit thru that opening in the wall.
What surprised me when looking at the opening thru the front support wall , was that it was located right behind the headlight assembly, with wiring harnesses running thru there. It made me wonder just how much air flow can really get thru that congested opening and to the engine. Might help explain the poor gas mileage I get.
Re-installation of the air box and its other components is reverse of removal.
