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Good quality replacement steering rack?

Mesozoic

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 3, 2015
Messages
443
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199
City, State
Tucson, AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 Mercury Mountaineer
My '00 Mounty is going to need a new rack soon and I've heard that the reman units are total garbage. Does anyone have any recommendations on where they would source a rack from?
 



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I think remans are ok just depends on what brand you buy. The shop I work at has had many issues with A-1 Cardone reman parts. Looking at Rock Auto they have Motorcraft reman racks that cost more but I would think would be better long term than a A-1 Cardone. Even the AC Delco has to be better. Most parts stores sell A1 Cardone remans so be careful
 






What's bad on your rack?

I got a reman from NAPA 3 years ago that's been fine, but it doesn't have a ton of miles on it.
 






I've got a lot of side to side play (excessive) and it's not from the steering shaft.
 






I've got a lot of side to side play (excessive) and it's not from the steering shaft.

As long as your rack and pinion unit is not leaking, I would like to suggest the following.

There is an LARGE adjustment lock nut on the front of the steering rack, that has another nut within it. which takes up the lash between the ring & pinion gear.

When you loosen the locking nut, you can then put a socket on the "inner nut" which that allows you to take out left/right steering slop (standard righty tighty, lefty loosey if I remember correctly).

BEFORE YOU START, Just be sure to make some "scribe marks" so you know how much you're moving the nut, because there will come a point where the gears start to bind and you'll have to back off.

P2170004.jpg


P2170003.jpg
 






That is pretty legit. Thanks for that info, I'll give it a shot.
 






In short, the fit between these two nuts is tight, so the inner nut wants to move the direction of the lock nut and vice-versa.

This is a two hand job ;)

So, you will need to use a large adjustable wrench to crack the lock nut, while holding the inner nut in place with a socket & socket wrench.

Make scribe marks, on BOTH nuts so you have a visual idea of what you're doing, and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust in small amounts, LOCKING DOWN THE LOCK NUT EACH ADJUSTMENT.

Start your Ex and check the steering play.

Keep tightening the inner nut until binding occurs, and then back off a very slight amount until the binding stops.

That is the optimal adjustment point.

Report back so we know how it all worked out!
 






P2170004.jpg


[... regardless of the other thread about this year's SI Swimsuit Issue...]

^ That is one FINE LOOKIN' rack right there! Yessir, ain't no slop in that rack!:thumbsup:
 






Chefduane,

That's a Genuine FoMoCo Rebuilt rack (F87Z3504KCRM) that was replaced December 19th 2008 at 105,870 miles.

The original factory rack was replaced due to leaking from the end seals.

Since then I now run Valvoline Synthetic ATF, along with an Magnefine inline P/S Filter.

1382557749705-690750396.jpeg


I change the p/s fluid and filter every other year.

And actually, I think I can take a lil' slop out of her - maybe a 1/4" worth at the steering wheel ;)
 






Yes, I have a Magnefine filter along with all the necessary plumbing sitting in my garage right now. Just got to get the time to install it. Had my 5r55e rebuilt last year and I want to run it on the cooling line.
 






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