ABS, Traction Control, Stability Control and DTC C003A

[Atlas Antipode]

Good morning everyone. I'm looking for confirmation of the actions I'll be taking to solve the problem described below.

For context, it's a 2018 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5 AWD with about 90,500 kilometres.

The wife came home after work yesterday to tell me that a bunch of lights on the instrument cluster had light up on her way home. I went out to check and sure enough the ABS, Traction and Stability lights were all illuminated. I asked if anything unusual happened to which she replied 'no'.

I grabbed the code scanner, reviewed 6 or so codes and found the most telling one was C003A - right rear abs wheel speed sensor. It was later in the evening, so I could not do a visual inspection until this morning.

It appears that the right rear wheel speed sensor is slightly bend, the inner seal has split from the hub, and the metal has somehow migrated past the sensor (I did wipe down the sensor prior to taking the photo):

I also found the rubber seal wrapped around the shaft:

Here is a view of the driver's side rear hub for comparison. Aside from the dirt, everything appears okay to me.

I'll wondering if I'll need to replace the entire right rear wheel hub (as in all needed components already come installed on the hub), or if it could be a missing tone ring? I can't determine if there is a tone ring anywhere inside the wheel hub or inside the seal(?) itself, as there is nothing online that tells me that the tone ring is separate part.

Thanks.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum.
There are a few threads on the warning issues you described but none mentioned the rubber seal problem. I don't see any way of replacing the seal other than removing the hub but then I'm not a mechanic. It appears that the seal may have been displaced a while ago if the rust on the part it protects means anything. Hopefully, another member will be of some help. Please keep us updated. Thanks.
BTW, that's a nice touch showing the Caribou on the quarter seeing as where you are.

Peter

 

[Atlas Antipode]

Welcome to the Forum.
There are a few threads on the warning issues you described but none mentioned the rubber seal problem. I don't see any way of replacing the seal other than removing the hub but then I'm not a mechanic. It appears that the seal may have been displaced a while ago if the rust on the part it protects means anything. Hopefully, another member will be of some help. Please keep us updated. Thanks.
BTW, that's a nice touch showing the Caribou on the quarter seeing as where you are.

Peter

Haha - must have been a subconscious thing as I hadn't notice. That quarter maybe worth only 19 cents as of right now.

It appears that the encoder/tone ring is embedded in the wheel hub assembly itself. I came across the following in the Mitchell 1 service manual:

I double-checked the speed sensor - indeed, it is bent slightly. Comparing it to online images of new parts confirms as such. The wiring insulation from the sensor to the connector was perfectly fine, no pin-holes, green crusties, etc. and without performing any resistance, voltage or wire continuity tests, it appears that the source of the problem is the seal.

Parts ordering is difficult - I'm hell bent on buying OEM (aka Motorcraft). My main source has always been RockAuto but in this circumstance they do not ship wheel hubs to my location. Checking PartsAvatar, shipping is not an issue but is cost prohibitive. Working on alternatives ATM

 

[peterk9]

A very interesting read on the wheel speed sensors.
I don't know if this site is of any help. Order Parts | Cam Clark Ford in Richmond, BC
I believe there are places with Rock Auto prices in B.C.

Peter

 

[Atlas Antipode]

A very interesting read on the wheel speed sensors.
I don't know if this site is of any help. Order Parts | Cam Clark Ford in Richmond, BC
I believe there are places with Rock Auto prices in B.C.

Peter

Thanks Peter. I'll check out the link.

 

[Atlas Antipode]

Progress Update.

Was able to order a wheel hub asaembly from RockAuto while vacationing in Ontario. A month later, I'm back in town ready to pull the assembly out.

With WD, DeepCreep and general lube onhand, the axle/spindle nut became a bear quite quickly. Being rusty and dirty, the induction heater came in handy with backing off the nut. A bit of a slow go - 1/8 of a turn at time, coupled with heat and lube in between compressor resets. All-in-all about 30-40 minutes to remove. After inspection of the axel threads, I decided to slowly rethread with heat, lubr, and extra new nut. Threads came back like new! Gave a quick tap on the axle end, nice movememt back and forth.

Onto the hub assembly - attached a hub buster (after cutting off and punching through 2 bolts to drive a couple grade 8 bolts into the knuckle). Using a 10 lbs sledge hammer I gave the buster 2 or 3 softish hits. No separation of hub from knuckle. Two harder-ish hits (not anywhere near give' it), something separates but not the hub from the knuckle!

It was the bearings from inside the hub that separated. Onto he ground. Into the dirt.

<curse words>

Here's an after pic of the former hub with its replacement.

The knuckle still contains the bearing case. Given the awkwardmess of working too close to the ground with little to no leverage, I'm considering asking a local shop to hydralically press-out the bearing case. But that's before actually removing the knuckle.

Any suggestions otherwise for removing the bearing case from the knuckle aside from oddles of heat, lube and a impact gun.

Thanks.

 

[Atlas Antipode]

Replacing the wheel hub assembly was the ticket.

A local shop was able to press out the bearing housing from the knuckle bore. I dropped off the knuckle late Wednesday morning and was ready the next day. The shop even cleaned the mating surface and the bore, freeing it of the rust and corrosion. At $185 per hour, I was more than happy that they charged only half-hour of labour.

Reassembly was trouble-free, and all bolts torqued to spec. The knuckle, setting ride height, hub bolts, checked for camber and toe, wheel speed sensor, brakes, hub nut, wheels, etc, all reinstalled with relative ease. Applied threadlocker and silver grade anti-seize where applicable.

Started up the vehicle, noting the instrument cluster lights remained illuminated. Backed out and proceeded towards the main asphalt road in town. Accelerating towards 15km/h, the vehicle chimed one and then the ABS, Traction and Stability cluster lights cleared. Continued to drive around for another 10 minutes - no new noises, illuminations, etc. Planning to check for DTCs today, expecting a few low voltage ones (as the vehicle has been sitting mostly un-started for the last two months) and the one DTC we've had since purchase (U0284 (lost comms. to active grille shutter actuator)).

Wife is happy - she gets her Explorer back and the Escape is mine once again.