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If you're worried about galvanic corrosion, I don't think either one will cause trouble as long as you change coolant regularly. The steel plug is closer on the anodic table to aluminum, but I would use whatever was available. Paint it if you use steel.

I remember Ford having a TSB on faulty MAF sensor plugs. I'd look very closely at the wire pins that you found loose. Might be a very simple fix...

As XL describes, I'll bet it's the hinge bushings that are worn. Very common since lubing them is often neglected. Dorman makes a kit to repair the hinges, available at good parts stores or online.

A cutoff wheel will cause lots of sparks. I used a reciprocating saw to cut my access Panel, with hardly any sparks. I used a drill on the four corners. Many car mfgs have these panels built in; Ford should have. I used a Bosch replacement on the Explorer, and A Carter on the Ranger a few...

My guess is it's a failed fuel pump, even though you hear it priming. The carbon brushes wear out and give intermittent contact with the commutator.

Good idea about accessing it through the fenderwell. I've replaced 3 of these now on my two Sports. They seem to fail regularly. One started to drop/rise when I was many miles from home, kinda scary...

Is the starter 'draggy'? Might be worn out and drawing too much current. Or the solenoid might be shorted. Also try swapping the starter relay with a similar one in the relay center under the hood.

Never wrestle with a pig. You'll both get muddy but the pig enjoys it...

I wish this one could have been solved. My thoughts are that it was something very simple...

Oops, I confused this with my Jeep nomenclature. Like Turtle said, it's actually an ECM relay, or on early models called an EEC relay. Located in the 'relay center' under the hood. When swapping relays, spray the relay socket with WD-40. This helps clean possible corrosion on the terminal...

Thanks for that tip. A new one for me.

OK I'll bite, what's the penny trick?

Maybe #3 injector left work early...? My OHV did the same at about 150K miles, but I didn't check the fuel trim.

Might be a faulty asd relay, if BOTH spark and fuel are absent... Owners manual will give location.

Because of where it's at, I'd replace it. If it was on the passenger side in a corner, or behind the mirror, then repair could be considered, but that location warrants replacement...

One other thing, try two or three starts without disconnecting the battery, then check for codes. OBD-2 needs at least two successive faults before storing a code... Turn the key completely off, get out of the car and close the door between trys...

IMU, the pcm takes the two sensors; cps and cmp to start. If one or both signals are missing, then the asd relay will shut off power to the coils and fuel pump as a safety measure, so the engine will not start. You can check the cmp signal at che pcm wires; it should show a pulsing 5v every two...

Great job, great pics!

Oops, I missed your earlier post on driving without a working cam sensor. We can rule that out then.

In the first posts, I remember it starting a couple times; shutting down when it warmed, and then no grounding to the 3 coils but 12v to the coil power wire. I know you've already checked them, but I keep thinking of relays, specifically the ASD relay...

I can confirm loss of cam signal will shut down an OBD ll (Jeep). I believe it only times the injectors though, and not spark. Loss of signal will definitely set a code. What is so exasperating is there's no code.

Dave, not much has been discussed about the MAF and IAT sensors, which are the ones you disconnected on the air intake. The IAT increases in resistance the cooler it gets, so you might do further checks on it. Ford also had a TSB on the MAF sensor connector on some models, so could be a problem...

Good job! Muffler installation is "exhausting" work.

I'm pretty sure the tach takes it's signal from the coil grounding pulses. I remember seeing that in a wiring schematic, but I'll double check. Did that erratic voltage on the TPS turn up anything? The O2 sensors haven't been mentioned much. I know some early OBD II vehicles will shut down...

This sounds like the coils are firing since you're getting a grounding signal on the other 3 coil wires....but the sparkplug only fires when the key is released...??? Is this the number 1 plug you're testing for spark? Try the spark test on one of the other coils and see what happens. Might...

I think this is important: no spark when cranking but spark when key is released to 'run'. (That's why switch was suspect). Also because there are no codes. There are two wiring circuits to power the coils. One at start position on the switch and another at run. The run circuit is apparently...

Also confirming cam sensor is hall effect, and the ohv should show about 5v pulsing dc every 2 engine revolutions.

PostalDave, did you test for 12v at the coil positive wire with only the key on? If so, try testing again while starting. This is something simple. Don't scrap it yet.

There's a large square connector clipped onto the engine (driver's side) that might have coil circuits inside. The connector is in a spot where it could easily be disturbed when installing coil wires and spark plugs. Since after installing plugs and wires is when the no-start first occurred...

You mean point 5 volts (.5), right? If the 96 has a 2 wire CKP, then I believe the output specs are between .5v to 1.5v. That particular CKP does seem to be on the low end value, and if there's resistance in the wiring or connectors, that could weaken the signal even more. You mentioned that it...

PostalDave, congrats on hanging onto your sanity so far...:) If you're still getting NO codes, and battery voltage on the coil pack + wire, and reference voltage at the CPS, then check for continuity at the CPS to PCM ground wire. Since you've changed virtually every sensor and checked fuel...

RockAuto sells replacement lines. (Mfg in China.)

Here's a couple more thoughts: Unplug the RFI capacitor from the coil pack connector loom, then try starting. (It's attached to the coil mount and has it's own connector a few inches back.) The PCM should have (2) ground wires exiting the main PCM loom and connecting to a bolt near the center...

I ran upon this same situation, where the engine would fire at 'start' then die at 'run'. Ignition switch was the culprit, but this was on an old school system with a carb and coil with resistor. Explorer doesn't have a ballast resistor, but I wonder if it has two ignition circuits, to give the...

Not sure if a bad O2 sensor would cause a no-start condition, but they usually trigger a fault code. You might try unplugging them one by one to see if the engine then starts.... Ignition coils will short out with heat, but I think you've already swapped that out...?

Juan, There's a hose running between the throttle body and an EVAP purge solenoid located in the area below the battery tray. These hoses deteriorate very quickly (because of heat) and will cause unmetered air to enter the throttle body, if they are cracked or broken. The hose is easy to trace...

Those torque specs indicate it's indeed a TTY bolt. A reusable type would have a specific torque range.

I submit if you drive a gen 2 Explorer you're already of high status! 😂 Around here the legal limit is 30 percent, which I have, but it's still illegal when added to the factory tint. Never been stopped though. Guess I look high status in my hot rod Sports.... 😂

My slider did the same as DM's, several years ago and I too unplugged it. These seem to have a definite service life. I tried WD-40 with no effect.

I had to remove the upper intake manifold on my 2000 to access the cam synchro. The cap screws are 5.5mm. Maybe the earlier models had more room at the firewall, but the 2000 is very close in that area...