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roadrunner... lol you ran... you can interject anytime!!

did you find the vacuum tree? it's the one with all the hoses attached to it on top. the modulator hose is one of the thin back ones that goes down toward the transmission (bottom of engine). yeah, just pull it off with the truck turned off, and feel for fluid. don't take off the bigger lines...

well, i've been reading about the camshaft position sensor, and it squeaks before it goes out. i've read that lighter motor oil, and a motorcraft oil filter may help with the engine load. myself, i'm going to change the oil and filter, and replace some vacuum lines, since i know mine have had...

those anti-rattle clips are always either missing or broken, lol. it'd be cool if that was the only problem.

hey sorry about the pics... i made them public in picasa now, so hopefully they'll be visible to everyone. i'm glad some had success with removing the crossbeam, but i was inexperienced, so i didn't want to mess with that. edit: changed the pics to .jpg on flickr.

did you check the line to the vacuum modulator on the right side of the trans? if it has fluid, the modulator is broken. also, at the vacuum octopus under the hood driver's side, if that line to the transmission has fluid, it's the same thing. here's my replacement writeup...

grill, no problems, just tell us your questions, and if you're repacking the bearings or not. and how were those rotors cracked?

man, so many things to fix. i want to grease my driveaxle slip yoke/splines. i read about the process here, but anything to watch for? i know you grease the splines, but do you do anything special to the u joint? never done it before.

mine has the shifting problem, and i read here it's a gunked up trans governor. my back differential clunks when downshifting to the lowest, but it sounds like your axle is doing something while accellerating.

Thank you !! oh shoot, meant to ask if i jump it, will it turn off with the car?

Jason94sport: i replaced the resistor first. but the new switch is changing speeds, but not turning on a/c. racer_x_one: thanks for the schematic. i wanted to turn on the blower... the a/c can wait til summer. so the blower needs power, so i know those colors. maybe by process of elimination...

i'm not sure if it'll start with the inertia switch tripped. since it started again, then quit, it seems erratic like it was that fuel relay. more experienced members here can help. are you getting the fuel pump sound when you turn the ignition to 'on'?

when i replaced those hoses, i had to clamp them pretty hard to stop them leaking.

not being sarcastic, but is the gas tank empty, since the gauge won't tell you? is the battery good?

did you check electrical or fuel?

if you 'put everything together', then what did you take apart?

look out for your heater valve (2 hoses [check them too] into it, then the firewall). it's made out of plastic, and if it's old, may not handle pressure well.

i got a new a/c switch since my blower only ran high. it fixed the blower, but now my a/c won't turn on (even though the switch description said "with a/c"). with the old, broken switch, the a/c would turn on, just only high blower speed. rockauto said they would replace it, but i threw the...

just changed my bulb this week that solved the same problem. the bulb looked sooty.

We have power, captain. Replaced the alternator and it's charging the battery now. Even after O'Reilly's tester said the old one passed. I went to Autozone, and their tester said the old one failed, then, I asked them to check the new one, and it failed too. So instead of waiting around for them...

my son called and said he checked the alternator nut to the solenoid (the fusible link), and said he got nothing with the car started. so we're going to get the alternator tested at a different store, and see if it still shows good. if not, we were going to take apart the alternator.

i did check them, but i'll do it again, because it was someone else who checked them. thanks for quick reply. is there a way to check the multipin alternator connector? i'm unfamiliar with its end termination, and i want to check its continuity with a dvm.

thanks racerx1, i have continuity at the fusible link going to the solenoid (checked it with the ends disconnected). checked the small fuses in the fender fuse box, they're good. the voltage dropped and light came on suddenly, so it wasn't a gradual drain, but like a disconnection or break...

Solved low volts, battery light on 94 sport 2wd my voltmeter suddenly dropped and stayed low, with the battery warning light on, while driving. 1. battery and alternator are good. 2. car starts. 3. cleaned battery cables/posts. 4. ground connector to 2 pin plug dirty, so i cleaned. 5...

can you give the link for a radio adapter, from the original connector to a different ford radio? the original has a square connector, and the ford radio has a rectangle connector. i've seen the adapter but lost the link. i can post pics later if needed.

how is it doing at idle? i'd change the filter, and wait til the gas runs out, then go to another better gas station. was the gas truck filling the pumps at that time?

the answer was buying some $50 napa brake pads, and machining the rotors. it doesn't pulsate anymore for a couple of months now.

i have an automatic, but did anyone think that the abs sensor in the pic is a little far forward? like, what's the clearance between it and the rotor?

wow, looks like they took care of it, for a 92! start with the easy stuff, like bearings as they said. i smiled about the steering wheel adjuster. you said you didn't want anything over your head: you'll find that you'll be doing alot of repairs, so you'll get pretty good. get many tools if you...

i'm replacing my broken blower motor switch, but i don't know how to get to it. how and what do i remove? the radio is already loose where i can get behind it.

don't know too much about abs, but the sensor is behind the rotor, the round silver thing, and it needs to be wiped clean. again, don't know if this will cause pulling. also, the rotor tines have to be clear of debris when they pass by the sensor.

heater hose hole update: did a prestone radiator flush, still had the overheating. drove home one night, and as i got out of my car, noticed a steam sound. looked under the hood and saw radiator fluid on the passenger side, top of the engine. got scared that it might be a gasket, but it turned...

don't let the pulley get so bad it breaks or comes off, because it'll cause damage. the idler pulley may just need tightening on the center bolt, if it came loose. try to pinpoint the location of the sound. also, look for any wobble out of the ordinary.

where does this solenoid attach, and how does it attach? driver's side door:

the vacuum ports are on the drivers side at the back of the engine on top (follow the hoses). one of the back hoses could have come off. also, the open port (one is unused) should be capped. check any hoses for leaks.

thanks, yes, running it with my a/c on. you're right about every little bit... the pieces out of the fan aren't much, and i get good air, but it'll blow good when i replace it... but since the fluid doesn't go down much, i imagine there's build up in the radiator. i'll get some cooling system...

thanks, i'll clean it when i clean the grimy evaporator in front.

i agree... starting from a dead stop, let the truck do the work getting up to speed, instead of forcing it.

would the coolant reservoir keep getting higher in that case?

tried to burp the system, and pressed the top hose to get some air out. the radiator started out full, then went down 2 inches, then back up to full. i never had to refill, so is it normal to only go down that far, or should i have had to fill it? the recovery tank was about up to the cold line...