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There is a high beam relay. The link below it shows a picture of its location. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=301961

Hopefully the WD-40 fixes it. Mine did this six months ago and the WD-40 made it go away until a few weeks ago. Turns out it was a broken ground wire in the drivers door. Here is a great write up that will walk you through it. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

Oldwolf - I had almost the exact symptoms you have except my "Door Adjar" light would initially stay on. I could drive ~15 feet or so and everything starts working normally. Took the drivers door apart and the larger of the two black wires was hanging by a strand. Soldered and heat shrinked in a...

I am a novice with the idiosyncrasy of the Explorer ECM and again not to step on your toes but if he's running "premium" gas at a higher octane rating his chance of detonation is reduced. Higher octane does not make more power, tuning for higher octane does. Detonation will make the computer...

Did you check the anti freeze level? You may have a leak. Good point by edwx below...Check your heater hose lines and see if they are warm. Be careful, they can get really hot.

I wasn't going to comment because I hate being the bearer bad news but it sounds like your fuel level sensor unit is bad. Is your service engine light on? My friend that works at a Ford dealership says that this is a relatively common and expensive problem. The sensor itself is ~160 but I...

Glad I could help. If your stock the standard wire looms, in the stock locations, were vigorously tested and if anything more was needed it should be noted in most "good" repair manuals. When in doubt check the temperature with a temperature sticker in that area yourself and you'll know what you...

Did you happen to be dashing through the snow just before this happened? If you hit a big enough mound you may have gotten some on the alternator. Just a thought. If its constant get a multimter and see what voltage you have on your battery...alternator my be going bad.

Cableorganizer has some flexible nylon ones rated at 125C. If you need something higher than that DEI makes heat sheats in multiple diameters and up to 50' in length. On my other vehicle my alternator wires are an inch or less away from my headers and the sheaths have worked great. To find out...

I am not trying to second guess anything you say but I have seen more than my share of connectors go bad from a "higher than rated" amp draw. The fuel pump connectors on my CTS-V with a boost-a-pump is a prime example. I was trying to save him some trouble by checking everything and being done...

All true. Fuses are made to be the weakest link and blow to protect the circuit. But I have seen a few crap crimp connectors when subjected to more amps than they are rated for that get slightly burned up and like to cause grief. Just trying to save him some grief of taking it all apart again.

Find out the amp rating of the light(s). Without this you are shooting in the dark. After you know this utilize the chart above. Also as mentioned above google those lights and see how they should be wired(series/parallel) and with what(relay?). You will probably want to check ALL the...