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had that problem when my O2 sensor went out.

strange, I looked for the shipping coasts on their site: Versandkosten Zone 1 (Belgien, Dänemark (außer Färöer, Grönland), Frankreich, Luxemburg, Monaco, Niederlande, Polen, Tschechische Republik, Andora, Großbritannien, Italien, San Marino, Schweden, Slowakei, Slowenien, Spanien, Ungarn)...

they deliver to UK: http://www.ravenol-shop.de/epages/61107442.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61107442/Products/212101/SubProducts/212101-4L also available 20 Liters for 109,95€ plus shipping 6,90€

good software for free: http://forscan.org/home.html additional you need an interface using ELM 327, cheap on ebay.

The description points to a worn converter clutch, the briefly improvement by using a friction modifier (shudder fix?) as well. I would replace the TC

Can confirm that, my 8 bolt flexplate broke a few weeks ago after it produced a sound similar to your's. It killed also the converter, transmission oilpump gears and the starter. It costs some money and a lot of work and time to fix that all. Cross your fingers that it's a heat shield or...

it has 60 mm diameter

I would consider the fuel line, after shutting down the engine heat may make the fuel in there built up bubbles.... for testing you can cool it down spraying it with break cleaner...

regarding the flashing 4x4/low: it's worth to check EVERY fuse in the box under the hood and at the side of the dashboard. I recently had this issue and the cause was fuse 25 (7.5A) in the fuse box at the dash. Bad contact. Keep in mind, that the description of fuses in the manual is crap, I've...

no, here you can look: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4N5E_RfYpE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LUdwhq-M3M

possibly blown gasket of the valve body....

then it seems you are lucky, will be an easy fix... seems that the pin of the actuator is broken -don't know if the mechanic meant that with "banjo bolt", it's located beside the valve body. Maybe someone can post a picture or I will search if I have some on my PC.... if you're working on...

if you have the 5r55e you can test: shift manually into "1" and check if it drives. If not, most likely the band is broken (first gear and reverse use the same), if yes, it will be the valve or the pin.

it needs much more qualification welding a frame. By normal welding the metal becomes brittle and will break again. The only chance may be using far overlapping metal pieces with serious thickness. But not guaranteed.....

for clarification: did you also check the connection at the selector 2WD 4WD high 4WD low in the dash? Bad connection there made 4WD lamp blink and engaged 4WD, that causes clunking on non slippery road....

experienced this issue a time ago: check if the plugs are properly connected to the 4WD switch and not corroded. That was the culprit on mine....

12 means "low battery voltage", I'd check the connectors for corrosion and ground connections. edit: forgot to mention this message has nothing to do with your car battery

you can of course turn the wheels w/o running engine, e.g. to get better access to brakes or s.th., you only have to keep in mind to get the air out...... ;-) thanks for giving a feedback

I'd change fluid and filter by dropping the pan, after that I'd do the next 2 better 3 changes in small intervals. Last time change filter again and go back to normal intervals. A flush would be good as well, but should only be done by 2 experienced people if no special equipment is available...

this is surely from air in the servo, caused by moving the front wheels left/right w/o motor running. Move the steering wheel left/right end to end 3 or 4 times with running engine, that will solve the problem. Check the level of steering fluid.

from my documents the part number is correct. I'd suggest to swap both tensioners, the spring in the rear tensioner gets tired as well.... Land Rover used the SOHC in the Discovery / LR 3 in US, Canada and Australia. They say as regular maintenance both have to be changed every 50,000 km. Btw...