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sweet man go for it! Why not get really into the fabrication and hook those suckers under the hood and then you could ditch the scavenge pump for some $$$$ and no oil drainback problems?

this is my single T3 on my 91 im only running 5lbs with no tune or fuel modds yet. I dirive it 2 or more hours a day and it boosts great with no intercooler and venting after the maf. Soon I will be purchasing the aftermarket oem replacment heads and upgrading the fuel system and tune and throw...

I run a chrysler 10$ T3 .42/.48 on my 4.0 under the hood. It suits the 4.0 just fine for what I wanted but a 302 will be very different youll need a larger turbo or 2 T3s

Well first of all i push things farther than most should. Second no there is no tune, fuel, intercooler, or recurculation, and the O2 isnt hooked up im just running open loop. At wot its a slug until the boost comes on then you feel like your actually moving;) its an internal gate that is set at...

theres videos above your post:D

i changed the plugs today the thing is running even smoother now. pegs to 5psi before2000 rpms and stays there. no knocking or ping no hesitation and no tune or fuel upgrades

made some adjustments and now the bov is hooked up and venting to atmoshpere also the wastegate is poping open like its supose to at 5psi. 5psi is available at under 2K and holds

im enjoying it i still have some work to do. the bov is venting to atmoshpere (at idle the bov is closed) unitl i build a reculculating bypass and it stumbles after a blowoff if im not on the throttle quick enough but its doing pretty good for not even being tuned. Soon a bigger pump will be...

and heres my turbo timer....eh i mean reminder haha

update: turbo spools at 2-3 K range. easily pushes 5-6 psi runs good untuned, got me to work and back over 50 miles sounds awesome. bov isnt hook3ed up yet when i lift it surges and flutters turns heads. Ill have a video soon...

i welded up the hotsiee today. it unbolts nicely from the truck in seconds

on work a little today but i have the maf to turbo tube how it will be routed and i made a ps resivoir cover out of pipe and foil to shield against the heat of the hot side tommorw i will finsih welding up all the plumbing

heres some of the latest Im beat up for the day... under and up was going to be difficult so i went around... this one gives u an idea of how the turbo to maf pipoe will lead... oh and tomoorw i will be moving the radiator towrads the fan an a inch or so to the p side for more...

Yeah i know there simple. ill probally consider it. well heres some digitals

got the cold side outlet done heres a few pics and the exhaust is done except for connecting the passenger side manifold under the motor to the flange. and a pic of the down pipe and the muffler is already in place minus the turndown outlets. once i get the exhaust complete ill have the oil...

i have part of the hotside done and the turbo in position along with the comprssor outlet to the throttle tacked up heres fitting a round pipe into a square hole...

i know i know ive been taking digital pics too but i lost my download cable so ill have to get a new one tomorrow:p: and heres one more mini pic of the flange im working on

the heater core on the early explorers is a quick15-30 min job

I built a flange for the turbo last night it still needs a little porting that ill do tonight on break. I did some moving on resivoirs and deleted the ac compressor for more room. Then started mocking up where the turbo will sit.

I flipped the driver side manifold so i can run a pipe under the bellhousing to Y with the outlet of the drivers side manifold there is where the turbo will be placed. Plan is low boost no more than 5 psi on a draw thru design with the recurculating bypass. i had built a temp down pipe to...

fmus are junk all they do is restrict the fuel at the return line under boost to create excessivly high fuel pressure its not an accurate way of tuning. The setup will most likely run incredibly rich. you need to tune the ecu to map the new fuel curves

my single kit is already underway for my 91. Im keeping the cost very low this week ill be going out to the yards to find a cheap turbo hopefully a 60 trim T3 or a holset. I have tons of pipes of sizes and lenghts and bends, oil hoses for the feed and return, fittings, thick blanks to cut a...

for the stang? check bbk, mac, kooks, and i thing hedman all make long tubes for the 4.6 in a stang in fact there are even more i cant think of the brands.

yeah i would weld in a setion of pipe to reinforce the hole. bolting two plates to the frame isnt going to support the frame as well if at all

i got you beat my TT car is one year two of the build:p:

inovative has kits for about 250 complete check out diyautotune.com and yeah the narrow band sensor will work but your gauge will be nothing more than a light show

...manifold that is. Im planning to turbo the truck down the road soon here after i complete my curret TT car. I plan to make it a budget build. I already have tons of pipe and oil lines. I just need to scavenge the yards for a good sizeable turbo for this application. Ive already flipped the...

centrifugal superchargers generally build more upper rpm power. It still may be a little sluggish coming off the line but once its up to speed :thumbsup: also youll have the motor going before the bosst starts showing so that will help. Eatons and whipples build boost fast at very low rpms which...

you atleast need a wideban 02 sensor to go along with the gauge. its not compatible with factory narrow ban

factory O2 sensors are narrow band sensors. Dont waste time with a cheapy narrow ban gauge. Get a wideban kit. Look around for good deals on the inovative or AEM wideban kits.

its not a DD but still can roll down the road.

the motor is a nonpi 281 (4.6) with a few goodies like stage 2 cams. Actually in my setup the oil is a gravity return. I have a stand alone setup. The resivoir is below the turbos for a gravity return using the shurflow to pump oil from a bottom port to the twins. It's still being built i just...

all the pipe i dug out of exhaust shop scrap bins. The falnges were cut out of stainless by my father. The turbos are 2 T3s off of the older chrysler turbo four bangers. The 50mm waastegates are ss autochromes with a shurflow pump and i modified an old air tank to be used as a oil tank for my...

you can have a remote mount for cheap. you need a turbo or turbos with small exhaust housings. Heat is lower after 10ft of exhaust but the smaller .ar will help spool the turbo. you also might want a smaller pipe to keep velocity up. You will need a scavenge pump to return the oil to the motor...

the earlier teskid block 93-98 is said to be stronger than the latter 99+ alminum block. John M owner of accufab has pushed a factory teskid block to more than 1700+ hp with his TT cougar bodied car

boost pressure isnt produced by how many turbos you have 2 turbos making 3 psi each to equally 6 psi dosent work. The twins will be easiest Ying the outlets from the compressor housings into the manifold. You will need to have a vaccum line from the cold side to the wastegate(s) whatever the...