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I did manage to get the post shims installed yesterday after it stopped raining. I had to take the battery out to get at the ABS lines so it seemed like a good time. Both terminals seem very tight now so it looks like the shims will work, at least until the terminals brake. I will replace the...

There was a break in the weather today so I had a bit of time to work on this. This is the section I am working now. I have to replace the lines from the ABS to the junction where the steel lines run to the wheels. The 3 steel lines that come out of the ABS to the front and rear brake hoses...

Though I often have this tendency, it is not so in this case. I got the post shims several days ago but just have not had time to install them or reply here. They cost $3 at NAPA so that is what I went with. I will replace these at some point. My general perspective is that everything on a 20...

First, I would tell you not to go back to the shop that charged you $850 for rear brakes. Even if they used new (not re-manufactured) calipers and high quality pads and rotors, that job should have cost $300-$350. If the calipers were re-manufactured, $250-$300. Even if they did both the front...

Even if your alignment is good now it may be hard to keep it that way after replacing the outer tie rod ends and the upper control arms. Any write up or video on those repairs will explain about how to keep the alignment as true as possible to by counting the threads on the tie rod ends and...

Just a note, it always helps to be specific about your vehicle. Try to post the engine and drive (2WD, 4WD, AWD) along with the year and trim level. It makes a difference in some cases. These are the parts I would recommend. NOTE, these were selected from the section for the 4.0L v6 engine. I...

I have always done it this way. That doesn't mean that it a correct procedure by any means but I just got tired of all the corrosion. It does really help in that regard. I haven't replaced dozens of batteries, but more than a few. I put a dab of grease on the post and smear it around and also a...

Sorry for being obtuse but I can't exactly visualize what you mean. What you suggest sounds about right but where would I cut a notch and how big? How would that help when the metal is already touching at the point where the loop closes and the bolt goes through? I can't see anywhere where...

Hello, For some reason the negative terminal battery cable connector will not stay on and keeps popping off. Yesterday I just bumped the cable with my arm and that was enough for the cable to come off. The bolt is as tight as I can get it and the connector looks as closed as it can go. I have...

^^^ this is what you need to look at. I would look, and take pictures, of both front hubs and one of your rear hubs. I know that involves taking off the calipers and rotors and all of that so it's a bit of a pain. I take everything off my wheels once or twice a year anyway to keep things from...

I also like the cutoff wheel unless the tubing is very heavy. I use a Dremel for allot of things like this, though I would probably lightly score the surface with a small pipe cutter to have a perfectly round mark to aim at. I assume that it is important for the cut end of the tubing to be very...

Looking today at the setup starting from the ABS, there are 5 lines coming out of the ABS. Three of the lines terminate quickly in male fittings that are mounted in a bracket. Attached to that are three female fittings that go into a 90 and down into the short flex lines which are held in...

I came across Metrinch while searching for a box wrench type tool for rounded off bolt heads. I presumed that there was an analog of the bolt extractor socket in the form of a box wrench. Both the snap-on flank style and the Meternich style are designed to center the torque on the flats of the...

These are the wrenches I was thinking about, Metrinch Combination wrench 11 mm and 7/16" ($10.61) The have a similar design to the snap on product. I have only found then mentioned in a few places but all the mentions were outstanding. Has anyone here used any of these? LMHmedchem

I sent an email to AGS customer service asking about the fittings in kit CNC-325K. Hopefully they will respond quickly. If not, I will likely just chance it. That kit is only $30 shipped from RockAuto for both the tubing and 10 tube nuts. It would be closer to $50 for the S.U.R.&R. UltraBEND and...

Another question if you don't mind. Do you know what are the fittings in the kit you posted (AGS CNC-325K) are made of? It doesn't say in the listing and they are "brass" colored. They could be gold colored zinc plating, but again, it doesn't say. This listing, AGS BLF-12C-5 Tube Fitting says...

The S.U.R.&R. BREZ100 UltraBEND is Nickel Copper, at least it is listed in the NIckel Copper section at RockAuto. This is the RockAuto link, S.U.R.&R. BREZ100 UltraBEND this is a better picture than at nationaltoolwarehouse.com where the price was lower. The S.U.R.&R. is about $0.30 more...

Thanks you very much for the informative post. At the moment, I am looking at the following for a parts list, Titan 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool ($48.58) 10 pack 4LIFETIMELINES Steel Tube Nut, Long, 3/16 (3/8-24 Inverted) ($8.99) 3/16" S.U.R.&R. BREZ100 UltraBEND Brake Line ($31.54...

Hello, It appears that I am going to have to do at least some brake line work. There are kits available from sites like, In Line Tube but I don't know if that is the way to go or not. These don't seem to include the short lines from the ABS. Assuming that I am going to buy tubing, bend and...

Ha, so much for the state "safety" inspection, but surely I have broken more things on my trucks than any mechanic ever has. I envy my friends in Ohio where the inspection is $7 to have the registry check that the VIN on the registration matches the VIN on the frame, and then nothing ever...

I have had similar experiences with tire stores. On one occasion at a chain location, I had a mechanic tell me that the "timing belt" on my Gen-1 had engine coolant on it and this would cause the belt to fail. He said that he would be happy to replace it for $650 and it would take about an...

I recently found this resource, 2002-2005 Explorer 4.6L Torque Specs According to what is listed there, Steering Components: front outer tie rod end (1 castle nut): 52 ft/lbs, plus extra to expose the cotter pin hole, torque at ride height (I had 75 originally) front inner tie rod end...

This is what I have, RAYBESTOS Element3 FRC11268N Rear Left Brake Caliper ($47.99 +ship) RAYBESTOS Element3 FRC11267N Rear Right Brake Caliper ($47.99 +ship) Caliper Piston Diameter (MM) = 47.900 (outer diameter). The Raybestos website may have more complete dimensions. These are new parts...

Thank you very much for the reply. I really appreciate the information. In this case, the issue is with the section of 3/8" steel tubing that connects the flexible rubber brake hose to the caliper. I am not replacing the metal brake lines that run from the reservoir to the hose mount brackets...

Yes, the last one I fixed was just like that. The leak was between the reservoir and the passengers side nozzle. There was still enough pressure for the first nozzle but not much left for the drivers side. Does anything come out of the drivers side nozzle? If there is some flow but just weak...

Inspect the tubing that runs from the reservoir to the nozzles. If there is a leak anywhere along the tubing there will not be enough pressure to power both sprayers. In most setups, the drivers side nozzle is the end of the line so that is where you loose pressure first. You can run the...

I tried again with this today and there is just no configuration that will allow the hose to attach to the caliper. Even if I force it, the tubing is just not the right shape. If the flexible part of the hose were longer, or some of the fittings would swivel, then it might be possible but that...

Hello, Today I replaced the passengers front brake hose on my 2002 XLT 4.6L 4WD. It was a pain to get the fitting out of the old hose as expected, but I was able to get the new part installed. There is a major issue however. The steel tubing on the lower end of the hose where the banjo bolt...

I am sure that there are procedures like this that work, and as suggested, can be done immediately with no added cost. I think, however, that you will eventually need a scan tool of some kind if you plan on keeping a truck that is going on 20 years old and intend to do some of your own repairs...

If I remember correctly, the ABS bleed is like doing a flush where you do each wheel one at a time in succession. The difference is that you follow prompts from the software. You fill the reservoir, open the bleeder valve that the software tells you to, and pump the pedal until you get fluid...

This is the tool that I have, OBDLink SX Scan Tool though it doesn't seem to be in stock anywhere. Perhaps it is too old now. This is a newer and a bit more expensive version, OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter ($45 w/ coupon) This connects to a computer with USB and uses the FORScan software...

Looking at this reference from fullerfasteners, Torque Information it gives a generic torque spec for an M16 class 10.9 steel bolt as 208 ft/lbs. Later, it gives the value for an M16 class 10.9 steel flange bolt as 225 ft/lbs (305 NM). The front lower strut bolt is an M16-2.0 130mm class 10.9...

I found this reference for the Expedition, Torque Specifications for Ford Expedition I imagine that it is similar. This says it is for the Gen 1, 1997-2002. This database doesn't seem to have value for the Explorer. I am also looking for the values for the large bolt that connects the front...

Is that $229.00 each? If you are going to get new hub/bearing assemblies, there is no reason to not just go ahead and get SKF from RockAuto. They are $121 each plus shipping. They are hefty and very well made and also come with a 3 year warranty (unless you put tons of miles on your truck a...

Hello, I have just finished up several repairs on my front end. I have what I think are good references for the engine torque settings but I find that the numbers for the suspension come from all over the place. I would like to make sure that I am using the correct numbers. These are the...

Well I finished this yesterday. The axle was a bit difficult to re-insert back into the front differential. I could feel that is was engaged with the gears but it would only go a bit of the way in. There really isn't any place to tap on the axle to push it in like there is to get it out so I...

I am going to have to reinstall this soon. I still have no idea what the C-clip I found on the ground is or where it goes. Looking at the clip more carefully, I do not believe that it is the part I posted in this link, TIMKEN SL260013 Differential Seal Using the magnifier to look at the clip...

Yes, but I think it would be a pain to install. I had to remove the inner tie rod ends to install mine so I could get it in without unbolting the frame. It was pretty hard to get the vent tubing back into the boot after I had the tie rods back on. There isn't allot of room in there and I had a...

I did use a quick boot. I thought I was ordering the style that stretches over the end of the axle but I must have ordered the wrong thing. I was surprised when I opened the package and had to look up what to do with it. It seems to have turned out ok, this is the repaired drivers side, I...

On one of the remanufactured rack and pinions I have used, the air tube was just reasonably heavy plastic tubing. I guess I would have preferred metal, but I actually can't really think of a great reason for that. The plastic will never rust and should be fairly easy to replace if it fails for...