Search results

Did the Wild Horse springs settle? I bought WH 3 1/2'' springs because of this thread for my project, I hope they didn't settle. Do you have any current side shots of your rig to show how it's sitting now?

What I did was before denting the floor I tried to stick the 4406 in and this left slight scuff marks on the floor to show me where to bash it. It only took a few hits with my dead blow to get enough clearance.

This pic shows the spots better.

The tabs are directly on top of the T Case and will hit the floor if you don't have a body lift. I already cut mine off in the picture below, see the two shiny or clean spots on top....that was the tabs. Some people cut the ones off that are on the left side for frame clearance, I did not...

Show me one that has as many years and abuse on it as my DC and that deals with DS angle problems like a DC and I'll look into them. Like I said, a stock EX does not need the benefits from a DC. But you can't say they ware out faster because they clearly do not.

If you are lifting anything really, the DC is better since it splits the DS angle into 2 u joints instead of one or one CV. Many drive shaft vibration problems when lifting a vehicle can be fixed with a DC. That's the reason they were used in the front of a lot of older trucks and in the rear...

Double Cardans do not wear out faster then a CV. My 79 Bronco has 250,000 miles and still has it's original front DC. I have replaced the rear DC maybe 3 times in the past 18 years but that's with over 400hp and a fairly steep drive shaft angle. I assume we are just talking front drive shafts...

The double cardan is my favorite by far and they are both rebuildable.

Add-a-Leaf all day long. That's what I did and that's what I would do again. It leaves the weight of the vehicle right where it was meant to be, at the frame. I also have no room or desire to have a coil spring over my shocks. My 2 1/2'' tail pipe is very tight to the stock skinny shock. I...

If it's P0401 it's probably the DPFE sensor. The one that the rubber lines go to the come off the EGR manifold tube.

The forums are even broken up into the different generations and you found the right one.

Factory front Trac-loc LSD were an option back when font axles were solid. I have no experience with TTB so I can't say if they offered it then or not. My 79 Bronco has a factory D44 with a Trac-loc that will be narrowing for my EX at some point. After driving that 79 for 18 years I can say...

You can easily add 8 lug to your d44 if it's from a full size bronco or F-150. I have done it, all you need is a light duty F-250 d44. Everything from the knuckles out will simply go on in place of your 5 on 5.5 parts. Or just use the whole light duty F250 rear. My parts came from a 77 F-250...

I owned an 83 F-150 and it had 3'' wide springs so I would guess they would have to be newer then 1983.

So where is everyone that was going to post up before and after Dyno runs? Any one at all have anything good or bad to say about these headers?

Then I'd check all contact points for being clean and tight.

My 98 did the same thing And it cranked slow so I bought a battery since it had the wrong size battery in it anyway. Not fixed As far as the drain, I couldn't find anything so since it looked original I replaced the alternator next. Not fixed My cables looked good but I decided to clamp a...

If you think it is the converter then you might be too late already. When they go you have shrapnel every ware and it is deep in the pan.

I had no original key (single) with my 98 and I had to go to Ford to get new ones made. They made me 2 new keys and made my clone key work as well for something like $80.

I've had a few torque converters go south on me in a few different Fords and I've never heard anything like you are describing. I'd start with rechecking the flex plate bolts and TC nuts maybe even the bell bolts but you'll remove them to get to the flex plate anyway.

I agree. I don't know much about the ected max diff but I would never run a true locker up front in a daily driver. My good old factory trac-loc in my dana 44 has proven it's self to me over the last 18 years. It still pushes more than an open diff but I'd rather deal with that then get stuck...

If the noise is gone you found your fix. You can't replicate load or torque on the DS when your moving it around with your hands.

This is not the easiest thing to do I'm sure but if you ran a hot wire to the motor and triggered it with a rocker/toggle switch it would be on 100% high. Full 12 volts to the motor is all the faster it is made to run so you could hot wire it to be sure.

I recently had to go to Ford to get keys made for my 98 EX. I only had a single clone key and nobody in my area could make me new keys off of it. Ford made me 2 new keys and reprogramed the clone to still work for $85.

Are you near PA? I have one off my 98 I no longer need.

Dump it.

PM sent.

What he is saying is true but if the tiny amount of friction material floating in the small amount of fluid that's in the clutch hub at any one moment is enough to make your tranny work then IMO it will be fine without the dirt and debris. Basically if new fluid makes your tranny slip then it...

Like stated above, move up to a thicker oil. My old 400 in my 79 Bronco would do the same thing and it helped but the real problem is worn bearings. In my case a rebuilt 460 solved that problem.

My 94 Mustang GT is ODB1 but also has an unusable ODB2 port. Guess Ford was just getting the wiring harnesses ready.

Koda I was referring to pan drain/fill plug in the trannys without a dip stick. This is the only way to fill them

I have rebuilt or installed many auto trannys and when they are bone dry most will hold 12-15 quarts. The pan will only hold like 4-6 depending on the tranny. So after you get 4-6 quarts in you start the engine to run the tranny pump so the pan will empty. Then shut it off and dump the next...

It most certainly should be running to fill. Run it in park with the drain plug out and fill it till it runs out the drain. Install the drain plug and shift it through the gears and maybe a little test run if it seems to go into gear like it should. Then while running in park remove the drain...

That was the best looking tube bumper I have ever seen on an EX/Mounty........until the headlight guards went on. Sorry, just not for me. I will however love to steal some or most of what you did for my EX whenever I get to make a front bumper. Great job!

I find the same to be true. I gained 1.7 mpg going from AWD to 4x4 in my 98 5.0 for what it's worth.

I don't know about it being a new take or anything, add a leaf kits have been around for decades. You just did it like I did on my Bronco about 10 years ago by using other factory leafs. Looks good though.

Nice wright up and pics!

I took mine to a machine shop to be checked out for my 94 GT. Had the rocker pedestals drilled and taped for 7/16'' studs for very little money. I then ported them and lapped. With my cam I need some major studs, 5/16'' bolts are a joke.

They are uneducated? Apples to oranges in my book.

Be sure to keep us updated on how long till you have more problems and need to pull it.