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Most places sell them for $200 give or take but ebay had a few in the $160-$170 range.

Sounds good, thanks.

Thank you.

Totally not asking if doing the swap is worth it. I'm asking if mile marker hubs are worth the extra money.

I have a 98 EX and am thinking hard on doing the 98 Ranger unit bearing, half shaft, locking hub swap. I've been searching the interweb and people seem to dislike the AVM/Rugged Ridge locking hubs and have them break since they have a plastic body from what I've read. Mile Marker makes some...

How much TT did you do? Mine has about 1 1/2'' and it is fine with the longer shocks. And it drives A LOT better too.

A TT don't change the range of travel at all. The longer shocks will let the front end drop more and not max out the stock length shocks. This gives a much improved ride, plus the longer ones are valved differently for the TT.

Need and should have are two different things. If your going to do a TT then get the longer ones awhile. My daughter has been driving on the longer RS5000 shocks for months. They work just fine on stock height vehicles, but she'll be ready when she does TT.

Ford did away with the double cardan because the CV is cheaper, end of story. The CV will not put up with 1/2 the abuse that a double cardan will, they are much stronger. When you have a bad flange angle it is far better to spread that over 2 u joints then one CV. These are things I have...

Ford has had drive lines running down hill for decades. Because of this the front DS can have vibration problems. This is nothing new to us who have been lifting Fords for years. I've said it multiple times on this site, you NEED a double cardan front DS to have the best chance at no vibration...

If you got rid of those pads from the middle and the ends the leaves will side less and act less ''springy''. I never use that stuff when I do a pack. I think the results are better.

The semi metallic ones.

I think I used these on mine and haven't thought about them since. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/brake-pads/engine-type/v8/year/1998/make/ford/model/explorer/submodel/xlt?N=401729

That's a shame, mine are doing great!

These things are the best tire I have ever had in the snow. Kumho Road Venture AT51

Agree and to clarify, good torque number at a reasonable RPM for a SUV. They might make number up high but that's no good either.

I was always told they make no torque, so that's a no go in my book.

I voted but I cant answer most of the questions since I never had a vibration after doing the swap. 1. No 2. double cardan I will add that I used a 1st gen EX front drive shaft and added the flange adapter to it. My memory is fogy but the adapter is something like Spicer #627 but don't quote me.

I disagree, you forgot about transmission, transfer case, and new drive shafts. It would never pay.

It's one of those things where if I was doing a water pump and a timing cover I'd go ahead and replace the chain while I'm right there looking at it. Of course I'd also do a small cam and valve springs too.

I agree 100%

Here, post 12 I think I talk about the add a leaf. My 98 XLT 5.0 Finally Goes Under The Knife

It's no difference then the multi leaf pack you have now. It will ride stiffer which I prefer. Mine came from a buddy who got 2 sets in a lift kit by accident. It's in my sig though, Sky Jacker.

Then you'll need to add a short and a long add a leaf to get close to that. The prices you listed sound like short leafs. My long add a leaf was near $100.

I have no way of knowing this but for that price I'd bet they are a cheaper or lower grade of spring steel.

I'd throw the Chilton away, I've seen way too many skipped steps or just plain wrong things in them.

McMaster Carr is your friend. McMaster-Carr

Look at your other thread.......

I have removed dozens of transmissions and I always used the buddy system. Once on jack stands 2 guys crawl under and yank it out. For a lighter smaller stick I just do those myself.

That video is basically what I did but under the car instead of it being on the stand. Easy peasy.

I thought you tubular header guys could upgrade to the better flowing cast iron manifolds? They are a lot cheaper and it is said they flow better.

My 94 Mustang GT has the one piece seal and I did it like I do any other seal. Taped it in with a hammer slowly. I did loosen the rear main and that helped a bunch then just retorque it. I did that maybe 10 years ago and no leaks yet.

Boreing will not effect balance. The P heads plug angle might be a problem with your headers. AS far as fuel pressure, if you get a complete motor it will have the regulator on the rails.

Thank you very much Sir!

I have had new yokes go on new pinions hard, like needed to use the nut to draw it up.

Like this one? show us your custom bumpers!!

Please tell me you measured the height of your mount so we at least have that measurement finally.

Unit bearing. Koda is telling you how to do old school front bearings not unit bearings like you have. EDIT....nevermind, I know nothing about 2wd.

Height is the biggest concern I have. Most cross members have slotted holes so if they are offset or inline matters little. Besides, I'd rather drill holes then rebuild a cross member. I know my C-6 mount and my AODE mount look identical, I'd bet money they interchange. Ford seems to have...

Did you look at my link? That 64-73 mount looks just like yours. And 79-04 is all the same tall mount.