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Yeah if the mold is bad then pulling out as much as possible is the best alternative. There's also some kind of mold killer spray that larger hardware stores stock, and likely the cause of the mold is excessive moisture so it would be good to air it out, use a fan to circulate some air through...

The magnetic clutch coil, is literally a coil of wire, acting as an electromagnet when energized. When not energized, that coil will measure a resistance between the power input (brown wire) and its own connection to ground. Yes if you get no continuity and infinite resistance with the brown...

At this point I would do some experimentation without wiring it into the vehicle yet. I'd connect a 12V power source to the brown motor wire (the middle wire in your motor picture "looks" brown from here, or purple, or something), then jumper the red motor wire to ground and assuming it spins...

^ I'd guess single-digit, somewhere between 0 and 8 ohms, due to ohms law at 8 ohms it'd be 1.8A on a ~ 14.4V system, would only be 26W so probably lower.

^ You'd just (drain first if possible, which can be done easier with the filler tube disconnected, going in that way with the drain hose) drop the tank (you'll want a floor jack and piece of plywood over the jack saddle to distribute the weight), disconnect the lines (using Ford connector...

Yes any of the same form factor (pinout) called an electronic relay or suitable for LEDs should work. They must be a timer design that ignores current, then you can get rid of the ballast resistors. They're on Amazon for about $8 and up. Problem is figuring out which are good quality and...

^ Depending on what construction the resistors are, if encased in an extruded aluminum body you can mount them on heatsinks with thermal grease between the two, or put a few diodes in series in the lead to the resistor to drop some voltage, or of course get lower resistor values if it turns out...

How many miles on it? Checked the fluid level, color, smell? Maybe just needs new fluid?

Obviously you need to get someone to ram the other side, So It Matches. Maybe you just need a Ranger bed ... plus saw. :sawzall: After that, find some creative way to wall off the back of the cab.

Based on your criteria, you absolutely have to, or maybe a Ranger of the same vintage if you'd rather a pickup. Swapping An Explorer 5.0L In To A 1998-Up Ranger

Oh, one more thing about the linked article. It is flawed and cannot support what they're stating. They used a brake tester that leaves the vehicle stationary and is only meant to test Brake Balance from rotational torque, not vehicle kinetic energy. For the results to have real world...

^ The article is suggesting a mere 1.5% difference. Follow the math below and look at the article on page 8. While I feel there are several variables the linked test does not take into account, ultimately what they found was that at the max pedal force tested (150lbs), at the same 4" lift...

With 12V on the brown wire, it can't be a Shift Control Module problem. That module only activates 4Auto and 4Low, is not needed for 4High with 12V already on the brown wire due to the dash switch set to 4High. However AFAIK it is located behind the glovebox or in the passenger footwell side...

Yeah could be a wire, connector, crack in the GEM circuit board. Is there any chance a prior owner had an alarm system installed, then removed it and what remain is dodgy wiring somewhere that's crimped or even worse just twisted and electrical taped? If it's a wire, effecting all those...

^ Then I am not understanding how the TOD gets energized, unless it's a normally closed (solid state) relay but it's a bit beside the point. With 12V on the brown wire, you should have the 4WD clutch engaged in the transfer case. I would measure for 12V on the brown wire at the transfer case...

Is it in mint condition? Easiest would be to sell it and buy a 5.0L Explorer. Being in MA I can't imagine that your chassis is pristine instead of worn by weather so an engine and tranny transplant along with wiring and computer and exhaust and... It seems like something easier to write than...

Yeah this is the problem with hacking an alternate way to *fix?* something. If you don't get the broken part replaced then something else goes wrong, now you have to question more than one possible fault, and nobody else is going to have it easy figuring out what's what. Whenever possible I'd...

There are a couple of relays responsible for more than one function, in the driver's footwell, right side up half under the dash. Accessory Relay and Battery Saver Relay. Those were what I first suspected. However other things like the wipers and defroster, do not appear to use these relays...

I'd consider trying semi-metallic pads from autozone. Right now they have some with a lifetime warranty for $23 before a $10 Gift Card rebate, or rebates on higher line pads too. Worst comes to worst and they don't work any better, you're only out $13 bucks. Then again if they don't work any...

^ But is that conclusive? In this topic we're already encountering another variable of temperature. If ABS comes into play, or any degree of traction loss then there's also differences in tire traction. There are a lot of Jeep guys who run larger, heavier tires with stock brakes and don't...

If you were talking about a tire free spinning in air, sure the heavier tire would need more brake friction but that is a small amount of kinetic energy compared to the vehicle at speed, far below what the brakes are designed to stop. Instead the relevant weight is that of the moving vehicle...

Larger tires are not much of a factor for brake pad selection. They are swamped by vehicle weight which does not change much as a % from a few dozen lbs of tires. Rotational weight is an acceleration issue far more than deceleration. Don't get "sport" pads if you want best cold performance...

Dorman makes fuel line repair kits, some or all of the following might be available at a local auto parts store, then you just cut the line past the bad point and cut the repair kit line to same length to patch it in. Looks like a caliper would be handy to measure whether it's 3/8" or 5/16"...

I thought it used two driveshaft shaft sensors on the transfer case?

I don't know exactly what I'm looking at on the attached wiring diagram. Is there a solid state controller that's missing from yours? Anyway the solid red wire looks like it goes to the switch, not power, and you are missing two wires that supply power.

Yeah nobody likes to swap a part if they're not sure. If it got to the point where that's what I was going to do, I'd grab a grease needle and see if shooting some grease in the boots did anything.

200F tranny fluid temp does not seem especially high to me so long as you don't run it much past 50K mi. I mean in general, I don't monitor mine. If you meant celsius ( = 392F ), yeah that's way too high.

Radio would be my guess. You could pull the fuse to it to see if that stops it. If there's anything else on that fuse that you need working so you can't leave it out, even if you don't have a new radio yet, I'd pull the old one and unplug it if it is causing any excessive battery drain as...

I'd inspect the CV boot, can't imagine it would be making that kind of noise unless all the grease is gone from a long term split in it. Could it be the shield behind the rotor rubbing against it? Thumping I'd sooner suspect sway bar end link or a ball joint. Sway bar more if it happens when...

^ Probably just a fuel system cleaner then, but afaik the best fuel system cleaner is still Techron. If the O2 sensors are the originals then they're going on 22 years old now. I'd only use a fuel treatment if you felt the injectors were gummed up.

^ Which slick 50 product? They were originally making the oil additive which did little besides change the oil viscosity slightly, but in more recent years have branched out with other additives.

Is it running poorly like the engine is choking from a cat clog? I'd just replace the O2 sensors, clear the codes then see if any come back.

^ Doubtful, worn suspension components tend to cause a sloppy ride not rough from small imperfections in the road. That's usually the tires on an otherwise stock vehicle, or if it has been modified then springs or shocks/struts changes. How many miles on it, is there enough that it might have...

I may not understand what you're saying but it seems like it's just that you're drawing more current than the alternator can provide at low RPM, so instead of a higher voltage than the battery (which would charge it), instead you're draining the battery. If that is the case that is not a sign...

I'm not aware of any way to directly test the fuel pressure regulator in the tank, only to infer that it's probably bad if the pump seems to be working yet not holding pressure on the fuel rail, where you'd test with a standard fuel pressure gauge like you'd find as a loaner tool at autozone...

Since that has never happened to me, I can't justify the extra battery cost to cover that kind of event, especially in the cell phone era. Plus if you have a new flooded lead acid battery and drain it down to nothing, you're still likely to be able to keep your engine running to get back to...

I don't find regular flooded lead acid to be much of a gamble unless pushing my luck on the age. I've never forgotten to turn my headlights off and never gotten less than 4 years out of a flooded battery. Heavy jumper cables are great for frequent use but if not pushing your luck on the...

Yes you should have pressure for at least a few minutes. Longer still except things start to leak as they get older. Odd are that your in-tank fuel pressure regulator is bad, or an injector(s) are leaky. If you have a fuel rail dampener that might be leaky but I would expect that you'd notice...

^ While you have a point, if it had been the same situation but the battery I bought last fall for $100, if it didn't pass their load test after charging then I'd have gotten a new battery free... prorating only starts after 3 years.

Yeah, it's sad when it's gotten to the point where I'm debating if I even want to let a shop do an alignment the next time I get tires because the old ones wore fine, so letting someone touch the vehicle for that... might end up worse. Used to be, you could read some customer reviews to try to...