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Nice idea! Heh, that reminds me that with winter coming on, I better get down to autozone and get my crappy lifetime warrantied failing "Mighty Lift" hood struts replaced for free again. Autozone's struts no longer have a lifetime warranty though, now only 1 year so don't buy them.

Do you have manual or automatic (EATC) climate control? On the manual, if the firewall resistor module goes out you should still have high fan speed. Did you check for a blower motor relay? If you have one you might try swapping in another of the same type relay from that under-hood power...

^ Seems like you just had the RPM too high. Grab some random spare/hobby motor and power it with low voltage DC. Harbor Freight sells a truly horrible low end rotary tool that's near useless for its purpose but might do fine for this, scaled back to lower RPM (runs off an included 12(?)VDC...

While you might not be required to disclose the odometer issue in writing, you might still find yourself in a lawsuit if you don't inform a buyer that the odo is incorrect. Don't know about there but here the mileage is reported on the tax form, the state has a record of within a year (unless...

DOH... '95. Like my furnace, just a little too old to tell you what's wrong with it. Mentioning the throttle plate on one this age makes me wonder about checking for carbon buildup too.

You might want to look at the end of the cable, might not have damaged the whole thing and only the bushing/clip on the end which is the weakest link (pun intended). If the steering column end is okay then look at the tranny end connection. There are places that sell repair kits that just have...

Pioneer has a vehicle application lookup where you can see what speakers they have that'll fit. It only shows 6x8", up to 2-3/4" depth. Crutchfield also shows only 5-1/4", 5x7, and 6x8. I doubt you can fit larger without modding the mount and/or making/buying a bracket. However if you mod...

Which engine? Beyond OBDII codes being pulled, it might help to hook up a scan tool capable of showing live data for the few minutes it runs. I suspect it's too lean, and you've replaced the MAF and cleaned IAC so I'd do a fuel pressure check. While it shouldn't be needed now, eventually it...

Well, cooler in TX is still warmer than a lot of places. I had a couple of my cowl cover, vent cross-member pieces crack off last winter when I was scraping ice off the windshield but it's a minor flaw so I haven't gotten around to fixing it. The local junkyard sells them for $15, I'll pick...

It shouldn't make a difference having the original on the driver's side, since there is no rotational ratio difference and they do not affect suspension balance... well you could weigh them, the larger OEM might add a few ounces to the unsprung weight on that wheel, but I can't imagine that...

The terms being used are giving me a headache. The speed controller is the head unit. The firewall unit is an active slave of the controller, only mounted remotely for heatsinking purposes in the airflow. I can understand them being called different things. Pin 3 should be the transistor...

I'm assuming it's analog instead of PWM because it's (the firewall module) a darlington transistor instead of a mosfet. There's no reason to use a darlington if it's PWM.

I am unfamiliar with the EATC setup on a '96. Is the fan speed pot supposed to be able to completely turn off the fan or only adjust it down to a very low speed? If it is supposed to be able to turn it off then I suspect the pot itself is worn (wiper springiness lost or oxidation on contacts)...

Before you tear into it you might try sticking a needle down in the nozzle. Sometimes gunk grows in the tank and clogs the nozzle up. IF you see gunk in the tank it might be time to remove and clean it out. Certain regions seem to have this problem more than others. Normally I wouldn't...

Yeah, spray some WD-40 or light grease into all the lock mechanisms for good measure. Don't forget the back hatch, gate and glass mechanisms.

15.1V while charging is fine, more a sign of an unregulated charger than anything. Now I would grab the multimeter, and along with a helper turning the key, measure for where there should be voltage on that diagram I posted. You should be getting ~12V to the starter at all times on the red...

I may not be understanding what you're stating but the TPS is a resistive element (potentiometer) so with it connected, it's going to pull the voltage down a little by the amount of its resistance to ground. I'm not so sure that TPS is your problem. At idle it shouldn't make it rough, but as...

Lifetime warranty or not, it looks like a downgrade to me. Is that blue paint normal or did someone already refurbish them? Did the originals fail? What I see of the boots looks good.

Yes it's almost certainly what you mentioned, is the only thing that makes sense. I am sure there is only a single line going back to both rear brakes.

I'm not sure if I have this sequence correct, but connect the battery, hold the remote fob's panic button a couple seconds, then put the key in the ignition and turn it on the first click.

These are the diagrams for my '98. Your '99 might be the same. If you were to suspect the starter motor relay, you could swap it with another relay of the same type, like the blower motor relay on this one, or do the same for any other relays you suspect:

A multimeter would help. If you don't have one, even the (free with coupon or $3-$4 otherwise) cheapie at Harbor Freight would suffice for these basic measurements. First I would measure the charger voltage with no battery connected - it may not be a predictable voltage depending on the...

If all else fails I would take the driver's side panel off and compare the two. I'd expect to find some plastic part in the linkage, or a spring has failed.

There's probably a little play in everything but look at what moves a lot and what doesn't as some things may be worse than others. Are you noticing this with only one or both wheels jacked up? If only one then I'd think the wheel bearing is most likely. You may also have a 5th shock that...

Many things mix and match but primarily it will depend on engine, and look at pictures of '97 and '98 model years as things like the rear lift gate, tail lights, rear bumper, and dash lights changed (blue to green). The 10th character in your VIN # should indicate the model year. See this chart:

Well crap, yet another thing I'll probably have to do eventually... though I don't have the fancy smantzy EATC but probably similar enough o-ring setup for the manual controls. Thanks for the info!

^ I've no idea how an aftermarket was mounted. There's probably someone who makes a bracket to adapt it but whether the installer used one or rigged it somehow (which seems likely if it's loose), then it's hard to say what needs to happen to remove it. Being aftermarket if the proper adapter...

Stereo itself being loose doesn't necessarily make speakers not work, I suspect the plug in the back is loose. There's a tool to remove it, U-shaped that goes into holes on the sides to force friction clips away. A bent coat hanger will work. Search Ford Stereo Removal on youtube to see how...

Consider the age of donor vehicles before getting wear items like a pump or hoses from a junkyard. Maybe you'll get lucky and find a donor vehicle whose owner had already replaced them but you can probably pick them up from Amazon or Rock Auto for a little under $100 total delivered.

I have never done this repair myself but I have a vague recollection that a repair kit comes with foil (HVAC) tape like you would cut out the side of the box to get the door out, then tape it back together. Do not proceed on this info until someone else chimes in.

One thing I noticed when my IAC valve needed cleaning was an interaction with A/C compressor cycling, including a dip/stutter in idle speed, though at the time I didn't have any A/C issues.

^ There are some pics and info in this topic: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/all-you-need-to-know-about-keyless-entry.195398/

Doesn't it just use a harness to plug into the GEM? If so I don't see why not, you'd want to check to see if you have the wiring harness going back to where it's mounted and if you don't have that then your best bet is scavenging it all at a junkyard. Seems like a lot of work for a now near...

Yeah I'm getting leery of anything Doorman that is more complex than basic hardware. Then again I'm still glad they try to provide affordable parts support for older vehicles.

Hmm, seems like they made that more complicated than it needed to be. I mean they could have set it up skipping the panic button step (since it's non-obvious if the horn wasn't already going off) and just using the key. Glad you got it working.

Hmm, it looks nothing like my '98 armrest. What year was that? Anyway I think your fix was a little too limiting. You don't have to use a napkin. A chili dog w/extra cheese would work equally well... but then most of you don't know the awesomeness of Cincinnati Chili Dogs.:D

^ I know one guy who does it goes by the forum handle EFI-Unlimited. Contact details: Brian 727-657-2956 efiunlimited@gmail.com

Probably needs new gaskets, once used they may not reseal well.

A 1:6 code indicates a communication failure between PATS and the EEC-V module, but I'd want to hook up a code scanner capable of pulling PATS and get the four digit code. Some of those codes start with a "16" but I don't know if that means anything. I'm suspect of the electrical connection...

I would check the fuel pressure first, and someone else might be able to give you more specifics about a throttle sensor reading. However based on the wiring diagram I'm looking at, it looks like a 3 wire sensor. The gray/red wire and brown/white are two ends of a potentiometer. The...