Search results

Okay so are we back to looking at pump relay pin 85? Does it get 12V with ignition on? If it does and ABS Control module does not get 12V on pin 17 then there is potentially a fault between these two points, so I would measure resistance between these two points. If resistance is low, say...

If the main relay does not show 12V at 85 with ignition on, that is a problem. I'd do as described in the prior post, #39

Ok, when pump relay 86 shows 12V, does pump relay 85 also show 12V? It should, and if pump relay pin 85 shows 12V, then ABS Control Module pin 17 should also have 12V.

Did you see my prior post? I edited my post to correct an error. However to answer the question, main relay should have power on socket pin 85 only with ignition on. It doesn't matter if the relay is plugged in. Okay I now realize that I overlooked something you wrote. Yes with ignition...

Most posts are a never ending series of edits so if you read one shortly after I made it, odds are it has already been edited again. :) For example in the bolded text, I wrote main relay when I meant pump relay which has been corrected.

Yes, the main relay pin 87 which you have indicated in the picture, should always get 12V and then relay pin 85 gets power when the ignition is in run position as does ABS controller pin 20. No need to trace to a fuse for the main relay since it is getting power, assuming the 2nd pin it gets...

Okay the context for that topic is the guy pulled the C1194 code which is for left front outlet valve coil circuit failure, so the described test in that post would determine that the wire from contact 17 is intact to junction S150, and conducts to the 4WABS Hydraulic Unit, and that the left...

The diagram suggests to me that there should be ~12V on pin 17 when the ignition is on, key in run position. Tracing it back, pin 17 to S150 wire junction on diagram 42-2, then to the 4WABS Pump Relay coil input pin, to "A" (without going through that relay) which goes to diagram 42-1, where...

After looking this over, and I hope I have it right because these older type wiring diagrams give me a headache reading them... Looking at what 410 posted pics of... When the 4WABS Main Relay is energized, on 42-1, it goes out on orange/yellow "A" to 42-2, then splits at S150, then "B" takes...

^ But shouldn't a restriction in the line due to a tight bend, only decrease the braking force on that one wheel, so it would be a safety issue when braking hard at high speed or on a slippery surface, but not so much going slow with reasonable traction? I don't see how that would cause the...

So it was a signal wire to the door latch switch?

This is what makes me think it's ABS, that if it were something else, it should affect braking at higher speed, and decelerating with a closed throttle (not giving it gas), vac for the booster should be at its highest. The ABS sensor tone rings moving slow at low RPM, produces the weakest signal.

I don't like to patch lines, figuring there's other spots that are bad too, just not leaking yet, plus it can be tricky to flare rusted line so I just replace entire runs at a time from the ABS controller to the wheel cylinder. How hard that is, depends on which wheel. The front wheel on the...

Yes either front wheel sensor. They're a bit awkward to get to, clipped to the front (radiator?) support panel so just follow the wire. I'd also grab a plastic bag and zip tie, to seal off and hold the loose connector still while unplugged, if the problem turns out to be ABS related based on...

Welcome to the forum! Are you aware of how to control the automatic headlights? I don't have an '04 but on my '98 there is a switch on the windshield rearview mirror that controls whether they come on and how long they stay on after power down. There might also be some adjustment on a...

^ That might find something but it could be difficult. When the battery is initially reconnected, several subcircuits will wake up and be in a higher power state than if it were parked undisturbed for... guessing time period here... 45 minutes or longer. It's normal for a few hundred mA...

A lot of the counterfeit ones do work, but many don't have the pins and circuitry included to handle the J1850 protocol that these vehicles use, so I'd look for conformation from fellow buyers that theirs works on early OBD2 Fords, and with the generics, there isn't an assurance that the design...

I might've been mis-remembering fuel pressure. I took a look on Rock Auto and the regulators listed, range from 39PSI to 41PSI, so that's a larger difference than I thought. Another thing I'd wonder about is if the fuel pressure regulator is getting weak...

Most Explorers don't make it to 27 years old, so it might be hard to determine what the expected lifespan is of an ABS module. Your guess is as good as mine whether it's bad, though in the back of my mind I am wondering if both of the code readers aren't compatible. Can they see ANY Ford...

I hate to second guess the diagnosis but if it's consistently producing 28PSI, it seems more likely that you either have a vac leak or a dirty MAF sensor. There are topics in this forum with pictures, where people have done this by cutting the hole in the floor. I don't recall (could be wrong)...

^ You can get the entire '99 workshop manual with those and more diagrams, here as a PDF: https://mega.nz/file/vBYGgb6R#mDz0ojjFRVegZx9J7-3DX14Ck_TVisg1J4w40vbfVJ8 Certain browsers support viewing it online, but probably better to just download the whole thing.

Think it's in the GEM.

Are you guys talking about the dark grey tube running vertically in the pic, or the (loom?) thing with the red stripe? If it's wires, try to trace anything they go to at either end, which might give a better idea what to do. Is it possible it terminates up at one of the two bulk wiring...

CEL = Check Engine Light Why are you withholding information? If you know the cause, tell us? If you know the codes, state that as well? Anyone looking to buy a 2017 vehicle which is still worth several thousand dollars, is going to notice, and care about the check engine light. Whatever...

We need more info. Why were you at the mechanic originally? Did s/he pull the trouble codes that should have been set when the check engine light on the dash came on? Was no further investigation done to determine why you "might" have a bad cat(s)? They don't just dirty themselves and need a...

I stopped flashing people long ago because there is no point. What are they going to do, turn their headlights off? It is not my burden to flash every vehicle on the road, just as it isn't to try to "correct" other forms of bad driving. On the road in a moving vehicle is not the right place...

^ While I agree with that in concept, it practically never happens. 5000K is too cold a color temp, and who is measuring their OEM bulb filament, then is able to determine the measurement of the chips on the LED bulb before purchase? People buy something, it's not right, maybe they buy...

I want everyone who drops in LED retrofit bulbs to have their vehicle towed if a warning isn't enough. No excuse for blinding others and it is a fact that you can not in any case, ever, see better without blinding people more with the LED retrofit drop in bulbs. There is no such thing as...

Since it did the same thing with both relays, then the old one was probably good still, but if original, now 27 years old so it's best to just leave the new one in, assuming it isn't generic Chinese garbage quality. It seems most likely that you either have a bad new fuel pump, OR bad contacts...

Welcome to the forum! Can you hear the pump when you turn the key to the on position, not yet starting the engine? Another thing to try is holding down the fuel rail pressure check valve, while someone else turns the key. Remember that it might make a mess, spraying fuel out! If you get...

Is it possible that they're not supposed to stay on because they might not be legal on public roads in all 50 states? There are two different sets of 2nd gen wiring diagrams on the same link in my sig., don't know if they're in them or not.

Strange, it lets me put it in my cart and get to the Confirm & Pay page, which I assume is the last chance to abort buying it.

I just found a used one on ebay, but it's $57 delivered, kind of a steep price for what it is. https://www.ebay.com/itm/176526145511

Okay I see on that PDF... Approved Adhesives – Obtain Locally (chose 1 adhesive and 1 primer) 3M™ 08237 - Semi-Rigid Parts Repair – 3 (shorter cure time) Or: 3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Structural Plastic Adhesive DP8010 (longer cure time) + 3M™ Adhesion Promoter 4298UV (primer) + Or: 3M™ Adhesion...

Keep in mind that when you pull that fuse on a '98... at least on mine when I did that, it causes loss of speedometer, and sets a trouble code, that remained when I put the fuse back in. Maybe after some drive time, the code would go away, but I cleared it with Torque or Forscan app and an...

Thanks for the info. What adhesive do they use?

I had this problem with the ABS twice on my '98... once for the front right wheel, then later for the left. I needed new hubs. The hubs didn't have wobble or make noise yet but apparently either bearing wear changed the spacing or what i suspect was the grease inside was contaminated with...

Heh, can't believe that I forgot to mention the fan itself!

The speed controller transistor module (some erroneously call it a resistor module because it is resistor instead of transistor on the manual instead of EATC), probably failed. It is on the firewall, right next to the fan, wire going from the fan to it. They can fail from old age, or from...

Normally a tire package includes mounting, balancing, and STEMS. I suppose in some bizarro world, they'd substract the cost of stems but otherwise should have put new stems on even if reusing the same TPMS module screwed to it. If they charged you for stems then didn't replace them, they...