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when my mother owned my 97 5.0L the light came on for the o2 sensors. she took it to ford who checked them and said they were fine, and repogrammed? the ECU twice (they even put a sticker on the headlamp cover saying this vehicle has been reprogrammed). since i've owned it the CEL comes on...

is it possible to wire up the auto headlamp/auto dimming mirror in a first gen explorer? im horrible when it comes to wiring.

I just got my 93 back up and running and since its not my primary driver i thought about doing some slight modifications to make light to moderate off road trail driving easier on the old truck. any suggestions on things i can do on a tight budget? im already planning on changing diff fluids...

my front drivers side door lock has been 'hangin up' on me when i press the unlock button on my key fob. the lock will come up half way, then re-lock itself. when you go to use the key in the door it wont turn to the unlock position. the only thing that gets the door unlocked is pressing one...

my 97 5.0L has 136K miles on it and as far as its been in my family we have never changed the filter or flushed the trans. ive been noticing a slight shudder when i am in 4th at low rpms and the tc locks and unlocks. no slips, no whines, just a shudder once in a while. i was thinking about...

so my egr tube was cracked all over the place, went up to ford, put a new one on. the annoying exhaust noise is gone, but im still having an idle problem. when either in park at idle, stopped in traffic at idle, or in park after revving the motor slightly as the vehicle comes back down to idle...

yeah, mine started out about a year ago as a minor noise when the engine was cold, it got so that i heard the annoying tick of the exhaust valves constantly. after using a can of PB Blaster, an 1 1/16 combination wrench with a 3 foot lead pipe for a breaker bar to get the nut on the header...

i took off the intake tube and removed the coolan/washer jug to get some room to move that big wrench around. either i havnt been eating enough spinach or that thing is on there.. im gonna try to start it up for a couple secons, hoping it gets hot enough to seperate.

well b4 i went to work today i was looking under the hood of my explorer and saw some carbon build up on my egr tube. i brush it away and tug at the bellowed steel tube to find a H shaped crack in the metal tubing. all this time i thought my pass side header was cracked but it may just be this...

well the noise is back under the hood. kind of a low whine/vaccum sound. but still no check engine light. replace the IAC maybe? i hate buying parts that i dont need though. just curious but is there an easy, safe way to check for intake leaks other than the 'ol ether trick? thanks guys.

im hoping you flushed/changed the oil and checked for water in the cylinders immediately after this happened?

well I cleaned out the IAC with some electric parts cleaner. truck didnt whine and hiss when i left work tonight, then again it wasnt that cold. 75 degrees at 9pm in northern wv in october, strange. throttle isnt as hesitant as it has been, rpms didnt do a swan dive during idle. there is still...

my 4.0L sputs putters misses backfires and chugs when you initially start it and feather the accellerator. when you ease into the throttle it levels out. and this is with 1 dead cylinder and 2 cylinders 35psi below acceptable compression range. do a compression test.

no codes are thrown. under accelleration i do not have a miss, its only in idle, when i begin to accellerate, and when the vehicle is in park. in the mornings sometimes i hear a low whine coming from the engine bay when i put the truck into gear which led me to the IAC. which is drying on my...

just thought i would add that last night i moved the AIT sensor back to its stock position and not in the MAF adapter where it has been hoping that would cure the 100-300 rpm idle surge ive been getting after the truck bogs down in idle. but it didnt. I cant find my MAF cleaner to clean out...

for the past few months i have had a slight miss at low rpms in my 5.0L. plugs are new, wires are new (twice), i cleaned the MAF, cleaned out my K&N cone filter, new MSD coils. I do have the annoying exhaust leak from the passenger cylinder bank. which has gottten worse, but i cant afford the...

if you want the look of a bigger tire run the 31s, they fill up the wheel wells better, but I've known people to have rubbing problems on the fiberglass running boards and front bumper valances. I have a couple sets of 30x9.50s that i rotate around summer and winter, they look good on the truck...

i thought my 97 was bolted down like my 93 until i gave it one good tug and fell backwards with the bottom of the air box in my hand. i fall down too much.

if youre gonna do it.. get some bubble windows out of an old van, or maybe a teardrop window. now that would be awesome.

whered you come across that center push bar? ive been looking for the longest time but cant find one anywhere. the 1 piece waag brush guard on the front of mine is just too much for me. id like somethin simpler like that but not as tacky as a safari bar.

when i got hot in the front last fall it pushed the pass side of the core support back about 1 1/2 inches right where the header panel bolts to the support. luckily for me the tanks are still holdin even though the radiator is twisted sitting in the core support. stupid mitsubishi eclipses and...

once in a while I'll hear little noises and think nothing of it. but this one is reoccuring enough to annoy me. sometimes when I start my 5.0 after it has sat for a while and put it in gear, either reverse or drive, i hear a loud woosh of air like a vaccum leak. my rpms raise slightly, around...

why not to buy FMS headers http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193984

they make pizzas with apples on them, if it matters. j/j

that is a good deal.. beats the deal i got on my 96 Eddie Bauer. Truck was a trade in at a car lot, 114K, GREAT paint, no dings, couple rust spots on rear bumper, new tires, 4.0 OHV which i liked, wish it woulda had the 5.0 though. paid $1700. I guess not everybody in WV is an explorer lover...

For on road driving and handling in rain and light snow situatations the awd is great. This winter though, when the snow is bad and i hafta drive 30 miles to work im driving my 93 4wd. I've had a few scares on the interstate with the awd, just wasnt as sure footed as the 4wd. just my opinion...

Whenever I am at low rpms and high speeds.. say 1500 rpm and 45 mph, i notice a shudder when its time to downshift and/or the TC locks/unlocks. Now I am the third owner of my 97 5.0 awd, the second owner being my mother, and I cant find record anywhere of the trans filter being changed and im...

so.. replacing the rap module wont help me keep my change either since the original factory 5 digit keyless entry code still works?

im hoping thats all it is but anything is likeley since my sister was driving the vehicle for a few days with 1 loose and 1 missing caliper bolt.

pads are good, rotors arent in the best of shape but no grooves. usually a warped rotor gives you trouble during braking.. this problem occurs while the vehicle is moving, not while im pressing the brake but after.

would this hold true for me also? there is no abs light, i do not feel this pulse or jerk constantly and when i do it does seem like it is in a regular interval but not necessarily every wheel rotation. This is new to me, ive dealt with warped rotors and stuck calipers b4 but this is a new...

im having trouble with my 96 eddie bauer making a similar noise on the drivers side with factory everything. when i let off the gas and lightly tap the brakes i get a quick pulse from the drivers front wheel as it rotates. my sister noticed the noise a week ago, since then a caliper mounting...

so chaning the code will do nothing to deter my brother from stealing change out of my truck bc the oem code will still be active unless i take it to ford and they hook up the NGS tester after they told me that they had no way of chaning or deleting the oem code? hmm.

doors will not fit. sport doors are about 4 inches longer give or take than 4 door ex or mountaineer doors. you do realize that an explorer sport is only 10 inches shorter than a 4 door? i guess 10 inches is 10 inches though. and a mountaineer sport would be unique. I use to always joke with...

well in that case my explorer bogs and hesitates when i lightly press the throttle. so im looking at TPS? and whats this throttle cable mod? i searched but to no avail on a real explanation.

when i wrecked my 97 I thought about doing a mercury front end, i still think i may go with the mountaineer bumper cover. anyways.. when moutaineers first came out they shared explorer headlights, turn signals.. so the fenders were the same. when the moutaineer came out with your front end the...

My sister had been complaining about a noise coming from the front drivers side wheel saying it had been getting worse. I pull the wheel off to find out that a caliper mount bolt had worked its way out. I replaced the missing bolt and drove down the road with no noise until i let off the gas...

throttel cable mod?

Bare with me, electronics are not my thing. But to me it seems that a TPS with a higher range of resistance would enable the ECU to adjust fuel/air beyond that of stock range, maybe get a little better performance? even w.out the added air from a larger TB? I dont know, maybe its just the...

has anyone cut a Fram filter in half? if you havnt you should. I have always had good luck from Purolator PureOne filters and Valvoline MaxLife or SynPower. Ive been wanting to change my diff fluid, think I may go with SynPower on that too. Working in the auto parts industry you see and hear...