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Iv'e had so much misery over this thing, I'm not getting terribly upset over what might be anymore. As long as the motor stay's ok, and I don't wreak the truck I'm in ok shape.

On the way home I was doing more wot testing and logging. Solid 3lbs boost, which is where I have the boost controller set for now. On the last leg home, something bad happened. I lost all power, I mean all. I could manage about 5mph at best. I limped home to the garage, wondering what...

Tim, Yup. That pesky valve. I thought it was just a motorized valve that would open and close based on electrical input, but I think I was only partly right. Now I need to un-do some tuning. On cold starts, the idle was hunting really bad. Now I know why. Maf transfer function is rich now...

Agree'd. I'm pretty happy. Even beyond the money for a vacuum pump. it was figuring out another place to mount it and the added complexity of yet another pump to fail. I know you know my pain, and I know yours. Once we modify the crap out of something, the tweaking never ends.

Runs nice and smooth. I set the cam sync myself with the correct tool. I know that's not it. Here's a vacuum routing diagram I found on this site, I had the EGR Vacuum solenoid vacuum lines reversed. Apparently it does make a difference. In driver, I have about 10 lbs vacuum now. I'm super...

I'll be driving my new motor to work tomorrow. I know by how hard it is to push the brake peddle at very low speeds that the vacuum is not very good. I need to check egr and pvc function. Dimas just doesn't think vacuum should be that low, the cam profile just isnt that much different than...

Did this go anywhere Boomin? Im finding myself looking at brake assist options like a vacuum pump or hydro assist. Hydro assist is looking like a major mod.

Gman, do you know if you can get those boots, or something that can replace it. A small shock boot maybe? Mines torn also, but its not an issue for me

I'm sure everyone's steering shaft boot is torn in two. A flaming river steering shaft maybe? I think you will need to get creative on the boot.

Here's a quick video with sound clip with idle air/fuel set. I still have tuning to do, and have not gone WOT yet. I'm going to up the Drive idle some more in hopes of getting more vacuum. I'd say its almost dangerous right now with the low vacuum for the brakes. Failing that, I will be...

Jon for the WIN! I asked Decipha for help. Extremely responsive and knowledgeable guy that enjoys the tuning side of things. I have all 8 cylinders, Narrow band O2's are in range for tuning, and the wideband is working. Now I can actually get this thing driveable.

Jon, I keep having the same nagging feeling. This makes the most sense to me. It was on my list tonight to revert to an old tune just to see. Thank's for confirming that a tune can shut down bank 2. Extremely helpful, and your not off base at all.

I'll return my existing pcm to stock, then marry the sct device to the new pcm. No issues with tuning, Yea, its more than a bit frustrating. I'm just concerned as to what caused the pcm to loose bank 2. I can't see any wiring issues (Everything is nice and neat, and I disconnect the positive...

Car part dot com. Another pcm is $60.00usd and the clock spring with audio controls is $45.00 Lets see if I can get them up here. Tomorrow I'll check the impedance of my old injectors. I'm wondering what blew the injector driver.

chins down :( Bank 2 is definitely dead. The headers don't get hot. So, I Checked for pulsing at the pcm. at 4 easy cylinders to get to. Cylinders 2, 4, 6, and 8. With the truck running, I could see my meter pulsing on cylinders 2 and 4 (Bank 1). On cylinders 6 and 8 (Bank 2)....No...

This is where the fun starts. I, of course, cant check the wiring reliably without pulling the upper intake. Bad news is that I havn't found the issue yet. here's what I did so far. Diagnose miss: 1. remove and replace 1 plug wire at a time. On bank 1, there was an idle change on all four...

And, Its a 4 cylinder engine. I'm surprised it ran so smooth. I'm sure there is an injector positive missing for the drivers side injectors(Grounding keys the injector if I remember correctly). Spark is at the cylinders, and the fact its the whole bank, it must be a common wire to all 4...

Are you spraying before your iat sensor? I can't imagine you noticed an iat change with the 12HP jet? I'm really curious about nitrous and its cooling effect.

I wasn't very happy about what I did. I was so unhappy about what I was doing, I plunged the grinder cutting disk in to my thumb. No need to ask me how that felt (feels). I'm sure you can imagine. Now, I have to be very careful till my talking thumb seals up. Anyway, I sure showed that header...

Small update, or lack of. I think the 'shorting' of that connector hurt my wideband. It seemed to be reading way off. I actually asked Decipha for help thinking it was my Tune I couldn't seem to dial in (Wideband and narrow bands were conflicting, confusing the crap out of me). I'll try to...

Sounds like you had a CD changer in there? What radio do you have?

Digi-Key is the best. I should have the connector tomorrow by end of work day. Years ago, I used to do this stuff all the time, so we will see If I still have it in me. EDIT: Tested and FIXED!! I'm super happy about that. A guy at work had a big jewelers magnifier headset I wore. My hand...

ok, so a quick look at Tim's sct and I could see the pad that goes in-between the connectors on the firewire input was missing on mine. That would explain the 'shorting out' on the pins. It's a surface mount connector. No luck finding one locally, so I ordered from Digi-Key. I hope shipping...

Other than all the smoke of stuff burning off, it was an uneventful start up. No breaking of oil pump gears, no leaks, nothing. Front diff, and hood need to go on. I need to drill/tap a hole for the water meth nozzle, and then I can start more tuning and look for the issues that will come...

I still have lots to do, but IT LIVES!!

Nice to see you can fix what you don't like and then start adding more spray. Perfect. For all those guys that say the trans is weak, I'd say it just needs to be maintained by someone that that is logical, methodica, and that cares. Awesome!

You can't look at whats best without knowing the application. I'n my case, at 60-65 psi (Returnless fuel pressure), the injector data for my injectors was out of range for my ecm and the SCT pro racer package. I did find at 50psi that the data worked. So, I needed to lower the pressure to 50...

Done! Bit of an issue with an AN connection that had a flat spot on the male side. Pretty bad leak. Fixed and holding pressure with no leaks at the desired pressure. All the lines fit with no issues on other stuff like the coil pack so I'm good to go. 50psi, exactly like my tune will require.

You can get a syphon tube thru the fill hole. I have done it many times. It has fought me a few times, but a hose does go down. Maybe the hose you are using is too large in diameter?

I sure want to see a pass with the Nitrous. Hopefully you find the leak and the fix is quick and easy. Any thoughts on your next track visit?

Yup, its done. Lines are cut to size, no easy turning back now. I agree. Its either be by some heat, or spark. lol. So far, I'm happy with the results. Of course, its not tested yet.

Here we go... It actually took some playing around with different fittings to get around the coil pack, but not be in the way of the accessories on the right and to stay as far away from the header as possible. The fuel feed T's at the back to both rails, and then the fuel rail exits go to both...

Keep an eye on transmission pin out changes. I think there will be a couple on the engine harness to transmission connector. I could be wrong, but pls check.

:( bump

The top adjuster would hit the hood.

I'm plugging away slowly. I installed a new passenger header since the other one had been repaired. The egr was off by a good 1/4 inch from the old header. That took some time re-bending and shaping the egr tube. I'm super close now, so I'm running with it. I also have a new drivers side...

There's still routing issues when I try that Boomin, and I would barely see the gauge as it ends up almost against the upper intake. Don, your right, once fuel pressure is set its no issue unscrewing the gauge and putting the plug back in. I think I'd be more concerned with the -40 degree's...

I'm going to run with this design. Boomin, I can't really twist 90 degree's as there's a fuel inlet on both sides of the regulator.

I did a quick cardboard cutout using what I think is Boomin's advice. Tim, thanks for the spacial awareness tip by dropping the upper on just to see what space is really there. No gas lines are too close to the exhaust. I can still use some kind of heat shielding for any lines in the area...

Your as crazy as the rest of us. It sounds like you actually have a pretty good idea what you are looking for.