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Is the OD light flashing when driving?

You can also get better pressure on the glass by taking material off the wiper arm stops, but the best bet is to bend that bracket to put pressure on it.

The root cause is the flimsy bracket inside the door. It gets bent and then doesn’t hold the arm tight to the window.

Also, to get any real power out of that 302 you’ll need $$$ to spend on headers.

What’s wrong with the current setup? I wouldn’t bother with the swap, I’d start with an older Ford that wasn’t looking for the electronics. It could be done, you’d need an old manual control AOD. You’re a v6 now?

They’re pretty stout. I plowed heavy with my first Mounty, and ran the trans dry enough it wouldn’t move, twice. At 210k it still shifted fine.

What’s the phone number? I’ll dummy up and call them. Where was the number from so I can play along. Pop up? Google ad?

2wd. A hammer will not help you.

What you’re saying doesn’t make sense. Who did you call and pay? This is a forum, not a paid mechanical service… If you gave anyone codes that were sent to you from your bank, you’ve had your bank account compromised.

I never lived in Maine, stupid. Did you mom have any kids that aren’t mentally challenged? You’re a worthless spaz.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-diamond-satin-gloss-aerosol.html?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_t6zHuuN-rD2BJZVCUkPdz27qtd&gclid=CjwKCAjw7-SvBhB6EiwAwYdCAbCk4ODE4M7a6SYle4rCu-bN3DSZxisEmBGE7EmEdppKWYxW_D5crhoC0PEQAvD_BwE&wcid=18669317682&wickedid=629947575799&wickedsource=google&wv=4 I’ve used...

Sounding like you’re working through all the hiccups nicely.

I think he’s referring to the keyway

The sensor doesn’t wear, it’s non contact. Usually the rotor on the drive wears and it eats the sensor apart. If it’s failed it should light the check engine light.

I hope you bend all your valves.

I’d consider a cheap aftermarket amp. You can likely power it with the factory wiring and just add a single RCA.

I’d drain an oil filters worth, and recheck.

What happens if you put it in manual 2? Does it move?

I never considered factory with how expensive the aftermarket stuff is. If they’re available I’ll grab one to hang on the wall for next time.

The last “rebuilt” shaft I purchased was almost $400 and lasted under 20k. Currently rocking a local mom and pop rebuilt. They welded new splines to the shaft, and installed a new spicer CV. I think it was about $350 for the joint, and shaft repair.

Yes,‘it’s obviously part of the GEM AS DENOTED BY THE DASHED LINE.

The dotted line denotes its part of an assembly, as mentioned. You’ve spread plenty of incorrect information to be trying to call someone else out, don’t you think?

Pretty sure these use Hall effect sensors?

Your alternator is fine. Doing an audio “big three” upgrade is worth the little extra juice you’ll get, but it’s very doubtful you NEED it.

Looks like the standard locking fittings to me. Usually a hack will cut the lines and clamp them with rubber.

https://www.roxtec.com/us/ Has very high end cable gland/guide solutions. I’ll check work later, I might have one or two laying around.

That’s gotta be a $400 typo.

If the chip malfunctioned the theft light would flash rapidly when trying to start it.

Sounds like you’ve got air in the power steering from moving the steering with the engine off. Start it and turn the wheel lock to lock several times.

I wanted to build one of these out of a long track tunnel.

If you’ve got screw extractors broken off, there will be no drilling them without an expensive carbide bit. The extractor is way harder than typical drill rod. The one weakness is they’re brittle. I’ve had luck removing screw extractors with an air chisel and shattering them. You don’t...

Unless you have a TON of lights, a HUGE winch or over 2000 watts the factory 130 is fine.

Sounds likely you broke your 2nd gear band. Very common. Drop the pan, and the broken strut will probably be in there.

It all comes down to budget. I’d probably put the amp under the rear seats, or do a mini amp, and put it behind/under the dash. Why do you want to upgrade the rears first?

If you’re idling high you likely disturbed a vacuum line or something while you were in there. If the pump is just noisy I’d swap out the fluid. It’ll probably quiet down.

You’ve clearly got the wrong wires.

Need any contractors, or relays? I’ve got ton of stock I’ve gathered from the gettin’ spot stripping out defunct machines, and pulling the new stock parts that aren’t direct matches to our other equipment. Also, fuse holders, terminal blocks, and other DIN rail mounted accessories.

I figured if that was an option you’d have done it.

Probably a stupid question, but does it have any settings that could be factory defaulted more in depth than leaving it unplugged? I’ve ran into issues with VFDs where everything seemed set right, but a factory default would get them going again.

I thought it was a Past Masters logo, but it’s different.