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You’re risking fuel pump, rail and injector issues. Ethanol is pretty nasty stuff. It really shouldn’t be in any gas. It’s a complete farce.

You’d notice a fuel mileage loss with it. These motors aren’t designed for it. Use regular up to 10% ethanol 87 octane. I do love the Sheetz 88 in the Kia, though.

Fluid should be Dextron/Mercon transmission fluid. After draining mine I ran Mercon V for several years. After the fluid swap the pump ran a lot quieter.

Why not just replace the ball joint? Eventually your time has to be worth something. How many times are you going to pop it free trying and purchasing different boots?

I’d get rid of the oil cooler. Not needed, and the seal for it is no longer available.

For a SOHC? Someone’s smoking crack. Everyone in my area is coming of their V8s in droves. I’ve seen two under 120k and 3,000. Either of those, and a mediocre paint job and they’d be way more desirable.

Mine drips of the rain is heavy enough. I’m planning on planting it in WindowWeld next spring.

If you’re used to a more modern car or SUV it’s probably always gonna feel sluggish. 200hp doesn’t go very far, especially these days.

They’re hun centric as stated above. They don’t really take any load, and should be fine.

Wind chill is only a feeling. It has no effect on the actual temperature of an object. At 0 degrees it’s 0 degrees wether or not the wind is blowing 150mph. I wasn’t aware of any of the newer coolants being explosive, or flammable.

It won’t ever get below ambient just because it’s under a hood.

I doubt it’s going to be cheap. Extremely low demand, and what demand there is is government, so it’s marked up.

Different engine families Some basic info https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/ahu-alh-bew-engine-compatibility.457643/ I’ve seen a few of these for sale. The prices are getting attractive.

The other option is to blindly throw money at it. It’s definitely your choice.

They’re coming out of the woodwork around here. I’ve been seeing 5+ V8s for sale a month. Many in the 120-180k range and 1,200-2600.

If you’re already eating cv’s this won’t work. A truck so lifted it’s not reliable, and drivers terrible impresses no one.

I really hope they’ve fixed it by now…..

This thread is 12 years old. And this member hasn’t been online since 2015. What’s your issue?

Does it turn the motor over? Does the theft light blink rapidly when you turn the key to start?

These Sport Tracs aren’t IRS?

Yes, it will roll. 2/32” isn’t going to “Lincoln lock” anything. My rears are half tread and my fronts are almost bald. Same thing with the set of tires before these, and about 8 sets of tires on my last Mounty.

Pulling the shift motor off won’t help you. You do not have a “2wd” position to select. Read up on the brown wire mod. That’ll tell you if you have a signal issue or a clutch issue.

Would still love to see some picture of this “high output” 5.0.

Headers have made made by a few places. The current “good” ones Torque Monster Headers, have a ridiculous lead time, and non-existent customer service.

Without addressing the pitiful exhaust manifolds I wouldn’t bother upgrading anything on the intake side. Also, this thread is from 2009.

Definitely won’t run for 30 seconds. Get a pressure tester, that’s the only way to rule it out.

Is your theft light flashing rapidly?

Same issue.

To see how the bezel is removed you can watch a radio install. It’ll remove all that stuff in the first step.

The post you are quoting is 10 years old and the member hasn’t been online since 2018.

You can probably bend the tabs that power the bulb so they hold it tighter. If not, I’m sure ford sells the bulb sockets.

Does the head unit have a built in microphone, or is it remote? If remote, did you try a different one? The first remote I had was unusable.

Unless it’s coming from the valve covers above, it’s probably the real main seal.

Then I would replace the switch.

You must have missed the words “Complete Power Fluid Exchange”……. That’s how they got 11 quarts out.

Naturally aspirated, IE no turbo or supercharger.

Since you just edited it without correction, you have a 4r55e transmission, for the record.

5r? Do you have a worn bushings causing a lash issue were it’s not the same going from park the same as it is coming from neutral? The gold torx bolts that hold the shifter mechanism both tight?

They definitely didn’t catch it at 5 minutes. It noticeably effected engine performance for 5 MILES. Now it won’t stay running and is throwing a camshaft out of position code. How much money are you gonna spend towing it around and paying for diagnostics on the pipe dream this motor is...

Still think it’s totally worth it?