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I was looking into options for a pre-Oiler for my Kia. It’s fairly new still, and is my first new car, so I’ve been doing all the appropriate maintenance stuff. Looking at pre-oilers I discovered accusatory systems. These use oil pressure and a check valve to fill with oil pressure when...

The transfer case spins regardless of the shaft being out, so it could still be the t case. When does it bang? How many miles on it?

Are they white? It probably ignores all of the yellow and black signs as they are approaching warnings.

Best Buy. Eesh, no thanks. Rear speakers, unless you have backseat passengers, are kind of a waste. Everyone spends the money on the front speakers, and skimps only the rears. Since they are so much further away, and have a worse soundstage, they’d actually have to be quite a bit louder to...

There is no “programming” at all in a speed sensor. It’s a generic Hall effect sensor.

Have you tried triggering the ABS several times and re-bleeding? Air can get trapped in the abs module. You can force the abs on, or set it to cycle like things like FORScan.

Speakers take weeks to months to break in sometimes. My factory Kia speakers took 2 months to really break in and sound not terrible. Of course, like anyone who really enjoys music, I yanked them out and replaced them with real speakers.

It’s been an “indication” of a bad bulb for almost 100 years. Kind of how a stalled engine is an indicator of not having any more gas.

Yes. Pull them both as a unit. I’d take a sawzall and generator or gang of batteries. The exhaust manifolds can be a bear, and if this truck is rusty could be a show stopper. if the truck is destined for the scrap yard, I’d ask about cutting the header panel right out of it.

The hyperflash issue stated in the article is somewhat misleading. The hyperflash isn’t a feature that lets you know a bulb is bad. It’s a mechanical function of how a flasher unit operates. If the new Explorer hyperflashes to indicate you have a bad bulb: 1. This is done to mimic what has...

Think you mean 5w-20 ;)

Oil weigh and protection are not related. The ONY thing the weight denotes is its viscosity. The best weight for a stock motor is the oil it was engineered to run in 99% of the cases.

There’s probably not a whole lot to “fix”. You could remove the rear panel and verify you have power at the external amplifier. Other than that, I’m not sure how you’d verify it’s getting its signal. Since the radio appears to work, I’d guess it’s more likely the amp that’s bad. I’d assume...

If something happens on the East Coast, I’ll probably have to order some bolt ons for the old Mounty and hit the road.

At 230k I would expect it to need a whole host of things fixed. This is by NO means a get-in-and-drive-without-worry vehicle. Especially at a 1,000 price point, nothing will be ready to just be a turn-key problem free vehicle.

I think it’d be more likely a lack of something, or changing it enough, that the oil doesn’t become acidic.

The ignition switch is your issue. The truck won’t start with the anti theft triggered.

I’d start with any out of date maintenance items. Plugs, wires, fuel filter, along with cleaning the MAF, and IAC if your model is cleanable.

I’m pretty sure all of the 96s has the separate amp behind the rear panel, and the subwoofer equipped models had two.

I’d stick with 5w30. Full synthetic, I see no reason to use a “blend” which can be any ratio conventional:synthetic. For the extra $10 an oil change I’ll run the Mobile 1.

It looks like it’s been beaten most of its life. That “rebuilt” motor looks like it was probably a used scrapyard motor. In 2k miles a motor should still be clean. If they “rebuilt” it dirty, it’s probably worse off than the average junker motor.

Your factory amp, or the signal that supplies it is probably failed.

Your driveshafts will come from two different f150s.

Fire up the welder and run a divorced case?

These all work fairly the same. Nothing new here, been out for ages. Instead of the flash timing being Dictated by amperage it’s based on time.

A lot of rural places have nice equipment, but don’t sell a lot of premium as there are many more tractors and old farm trucks than sports cars. We learned when racing our bikes to get our gas on the highway to the track, than at the local station. That’s when we weren’t running VP110, anyways.

I wouldn’t let my gas sit more than three months without an additive to keep it longer. You could also get ethanol free gas and it’d last longer, or limit it to half a tank.

95 was a strange year, as it was a new generation, but the only one that was obd1. I’d guess you’ll run into minor wiring issues.

YouTube retards? Super classy champ. I’m sure you’ve never made a simple error. I’ll go out on a limb and say he knows a hell of a lot more about Fords than you ever will, and he’s helped FAR more people than you ever will. If you don’t like his content, find your own.

Premium often lasts less long, due to it aging in the tanks before you buy it. As some Stabil, and start it enough to keep the battery charged. A healthy battery should EASILY last 2 weeks

4.10 is the best of the factory gearing. 3.73 would be much better as well. You could get a traction lok unit and rebuild it before dropping it in. I’ve seen several 8.8s on CL fairly cheap. I’d also add a large transmission cooler.

Isn’t that t-stat a little hot? It’s very possible it’s bad. Other than that, I agree get the front end high as possible and run it up to temp with the radiator open. Have to do the same thing with my Subarus, except you have to get the drivers side up high. Otherwise it just won’t purge.

Gears first. 3.27 and oversized mudders are asking for trouble, especially with the auto. Get a complete 8.8 out of a yard and swap it in(2nd gen gets you rear discs), and swap in a used front diff.

.10 worth of rustoleum later it’s “covered”.

Agreed. The driveshaft being out wasn’t the cause of the grinding.

Just ask the 5R...

It’s the check engine light of your 4wd system. Any other lights on? ABS?

Pretty sure it was an option, or standard on towing package equipped vehicles. I know on at least the next generation it can be added.

There’s also no mention of the neutral tow kit. I agree a factory Explorer or Mounty would need to be on a flatbed, or skates.

No. If the transfer case is ACTUALLY in neutral IE with a dealer installed neutral tow kit it’d be fine. Also, it doesn’t care about all 4 wheels, only that both axles are spinning the same.