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Who do you recommend for this? I've got a cam and headers in mine and would eventually like to swap to a manual transmission. I could mail in my spare PCM for that work if it's a better alternative than buying an SCT and having it tuned that way.

The PCM maintains a reflash count?

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/categories/classifieds-explorer-ranger-bronco-ii-parts-f.94/

What style do you have selected at the bottom left (mine says 'Shades of grey')?

Pics for sure. I've been waiting to see this come together for a long time. It's a shame you're so far away. I'd love to hand mine off to you to sort out a few lingering things on my own build.

Just wanted to reach out - have you gotten your Torsen diff yet? Thanks!

Can you do me a huge favor when yours arrives? I'd like to see the way Torsen's diff is set up to retain the axle shafts into the carrier. Powertrax has a very similar unit that apparently doesn't have the provision to do this. If there's a way to work around that issue, it may be another...

For what it's worth, this is who called me from Torsen: Rob Currie 585-464-5009 The voicemail indicated to call him to order. It's still showing out of stock on the website, so that's probably the only option for the time being.

That really should be in a separate thread.

Am I remembering correctly that there was a change in the cluster after '02 that complicates the swap? Seems like it became paired to the ECM after that so you have to swap it out to the older system to put in the 5.0 ECM.

Even on the later ones, the simplest option would be to pick up a PATS module to use with the spare PCM and pair them using Forscan. That way you could still have a spare computer ready to go (you'd just need to swap the PATS module in tandem with it). All that aside... no, you shouldn't have...

Yep. I was startled when I removed the hood of my '99 Ranger and the '99 Explorer that I used as a drivetrain donor - the Explorer hood was steel and easily twice the weight.

Can you chase the wires to a sensor? Or confirm the colors and match to a wiring diagram?

Just to confirm - you aren't running LED headlights or anything like that, correct?

Right, I get that. You're doing a swap and trying to keep your 1354 behind a V8 rather than the AWD case. I'm suggesting that instead of the headaches involved in making that happen (or sourcing a relatively rare manual shift case), you can use your existing 4wd controls with an e shift 4406...

If you have a 1354 electrically shifted case now, you can just use a 4406 e shift case with your existing wiring. Way cheaper and more reliable than adapting to keep the 1354.

No worries at all. Just agreeing with you.

That's what it looks like to me - it's the one i suggested a few posts back.

The injector connectors on my donor engine harness were the only brittle ones on the whole rig. I had to cut them all off and solder in new ones. Not a giant problem, but it was one i didn't expect. And you're right, it really does look like an injector connector. I'm just not confident...

Are you running stock headlights? I did have a similar experience years ago when testing a set of LEDs (though this was not on a Ranger/Explorer). What is 'LOM'?

FYI, this thread got necroed.

The more I think about it, the more i like Donald's solution of heat shrink tubing if you can unpin the wires individually to apply it. I do think it's worth it to get the marine grade version that's sealed/waterproof though. If you want to do an OEM repair, I'm pretty sure the kit you need is...

Click the Amazon link i posted above for a replacement OEM connector. Edit - let me check that again in the morning. I'm not 100% confident i posted the correct connector.

I haven't tried to shut down your opinion. You may need to back away for a moment and come back to this thread when you're in a different mood. It's perfectly fine to put on a generic connector. It's just not the route I'd choose, for the reasons stated. For the record, you can buy this...

This isn't that complicated... We both deal with RBV'S (old ones). We've had different experiences. Is it so hard to hear an alternate opinion?

I don't know what to tell you... We've both been dealing with RBV's for many years, but clearly have had different experiences.

I've never had trouble finding the correct connectors as needed. Often they're used in more than one place on the vehicle.

I understand your point. That would make me absolutely crazy though vs having the correct connector in place.

If you go that route, you have to put that connector on the sensor if you ever replace it... Imo, look for a wiring pigtail from a junkyard, eBay, etc and splice that on.

I'd be really curious to see how it could be done on mine. With the engine on a stand i wandered around with every combination of wrench, socket, etc that i could come up with and couldn't get anything into where those nuts sit on the plate. I believe it's possible if you've done it, but it...

For what it's worth... With the OBX headers it was clear that I wasn't going to be able to tighten down the passenger side hold down nuts after installing the engine. Instead, I bolted that plate to the mount before engine installation, and bolted the plate to the engine from underneath after...

I get that, but had anticipated the factory V6 radiator under discussion being smaller.

That wouldn't be switching him to a smaller radiator?

For what it's worth, at least in my Ranger swap the V8 radiator itself works just fine. But skip the condenser brackets. Just set it in place and secure it to the core support independently from the radiator.

Now that we've established that the truck is pre PATS, can you give us a little more info on the dash light that is flashing?

It may very well override -something-. But not the stock PATS system.

That's not factory.

What button under the dash on the driver's side?

Really - exact same sensor just exposed to ambient air?

That reminds me that i need to acquire one of them to install my console (plus a bit of wiring pigtail.