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Any codes being set?

This reminds me - there's a guy in PA selling a 4.2L R2 with a 4406 manual shift attached. I just don't have a good way to go pick it up right now...

I can't remember what I used a few years ago on mine. Probably an angle grinder or oscillating tool. If I had to do it again when the transmission wasn't installed, I'd probably grab a jigsaw this time.

Yes, an electrically shifted 4406 (the part time version) can be shifted by hand/with pliers between positions.

I can't tell in the picture - is the oil coming from the oil sender, or the adapter threaded into the block that goes out to the adapter?

I'm jumping in a little late on the conversation here. Are we saying that by grounding this wire the PATS system is completely bypassed? Or is that just an additional step being taken after the computer was otherwise programmed to ignore PATS? Edit... just realized that there was a separate...

No, all 5.0 Explorers got the 4R70W.

Perhaps you could share the results of your tests with people you're asking to help diagnose?

Test your fuel pressure before cranking, after turning the key to start (but before cranking), and watch it again after you shut down to see if it holds.

From the little I read about them, they don't seem to be a problem. Mine are somewhere around 250k for what it's worth.

Thanks! 6.3 probably have worked great with the factory rockers. With the rollers they would have been just a hair short (between a quarter and half turn of preload to torque down). But the 6.35 got me right on target. Now I can move on to other things... Finally installed the Sport Trac...

The OP is asking specifically for feedback about silicone blades.

Note that I didn't say -anything- about buying cheap components. That was somehow inferred magically from things I never said. Is it not possible to have a difference of opinion without projecting ideas on the other party in the conversation?

For what it's worth, I also can't remember a single comment about issues after turning a flywheel or replacing a slave cylinder in the last twenty years at TRS...

Interesting. I've replaced individual ends of the clutch hydraulics and had the flywheel turned with none of those issues.

For what it's worth, I just dispensed with the condenser mounting bracket entirely. Still using the OEM V8 radiator, but the condenser is tucked into the core support and zip tied into place. Much, much easier to work with that way.

https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/2000-5-0-explorer-swap-into-98-ranger-4-0.174669/ https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/explorer-5-0-swap-in-a-2000-ford-ranger/ https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/swapping-an-explorer-5-0l-in-to-a-1998-2011-ranger/

Any specific questions? Mine is 4wd but I'm glad to attempt to help.

Totally different bell housings and they're cast with the transmission case rather than separate/removable pieces. The R2 is a larger but very similar unit to the R1. Even staying within R1 or R2 versions, there are different cases depending on the engine family they're designed for. I believe...

Do you have a preferred vendor/method for getting the ECM flashed to tune out the 4R70W control functions?

https://heatertreater.net/nail-fix

Are you talking about something like these? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fss-16866

I'm curious - is it really easier to do it that way vs lifting out the drivers side bracket assembly and changing the o-rings off the truck? It's definitely useful info, don't get me wrong!

That post is a decade old.

That's not... No. That's not how any of this works.

The ST is gone years ago. I found a guy parting it out online and got the rear axle, driveshafts, center console, and cluster off it. Not sure why I didn't grab the front end stuff - it may have already been gone. But the rear axle is set up now with new spring perches and shock mounts, and...

Picked it up from the shop and drove it to work with good power and cold A/C. They're hassling me a bit on the brakes, but that's pretty obviously just the rotors not wanting to bite against the pads because they've developed a bit of surface corrosion over the last few years. This weekend I...

https://superlift.com/4in-ford-lift-kit-98-10-ranger-4wd/2000/ford/ranger That should at least get you what you need for the front. Then handle the back separately with appropriate shocks and spacers or new springs.

Quick bit of closure... Everything is buttoned back up and the truck seems to run great now. I put a few miles on it yesterday and parked it at a garage for state inspection and to get the A/C vacuumed/charged. For the record, I did use the tool to line up the cam synchronizer this time...

For what it's worth, on my keys that compartment would need to be cut open. Maybe the OEM/strattec keys are different in the regard. I can definitely see where the module is though - the outline is visible through the plastic. It's a great tip

I'm a little curious about that too. It's not like DOT4 is particularly new, and I've never heard any manufacturer warnings before about compatibility issues, or horror stories from owners after switching.

Same here. I'm going to have to take a closer look at my keys.

Since his '99 is already set up for PATS, he can use his current keys/tumbler/PATS receiver as long as he imports the keys into the system using Forscan. He should just need the PCM and PATS module from the donor vehicle (that's how I imported my existing Ranger keys into the Explorer computer...

This thread should be merged with the one below and left in the modified subforum: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/5-0-swap-theft-system-problems.494782/post-3904310

Did you swap in a matching year 5.0 (or at least one with a matching PATS generation)? If you did, it won't be a problem to program your existing keys into the PATS module using Forscan.

I messed up the initial measurement, but the good news is that the original set of pushrods I had will work. 6.35" pushrods with .030 shims on both intake and exhaust.

What are the dimensions of that compared to the Ex radiator?

Correct cam is in place. Assuming I did the math right when checking pushrod length and preload, the correct pushrods will be here on Monday. Hopefully on Tuesday I'll have confirmation of that. It's a new area for me, and I couldn't lay my hands on the adjustable pushrod I bought a couple of...

Rear cats are after the O2 monitors, so no CEL.

Lowering the back of the transmission is definitely helpful. Unbolt the crossmember and support the transmission with a floor jack, then drop the exhaust and remove the driveshafts.