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It's definitely the front bolt on the mounting plate on my '99 engine. I think the harness across the front of the engine is secured on both sides of the timing cover on mine.

This doesn't sound right. There should be a shift motor on the case that rotates the position of a lever into the correct position from 2H-4H-4L.

Thanks for the encouragement re the core support. If someone else experienced the TFS cam mixup, I hadn't heard about it. But there was a thread here about my initial story with this three years ago, so you might be thinking of that. I really wish I'd sold, thrown out, or otherwise gotten rid...

Well... For better or worse, I can stop diagnosing the problem and start fixing. I really did hand the wrong cam to the shop - the right one turned up in a box yesterday. I'm seriously considering cutting a section out of the core support and rigging up a way to bolt it back in later so I can...

Thanks - I learned something new!

Is a '95 Explorer actually OBD-I? That was a transition year, but as the first of the new Explorer, I'd have expected it to be OBD-II from day one.

Right - I don't know what length pushrods were required this time, and I added roller rockers to the mix which could have affected that anyway. So it's kind of an open question... If I can't lay my hands on the other cam in the storage unit, I guess the simplest option is pulling a valve cover...

Not following on that - why would bet that direction?

Yes, the first time around when measuring everything it required a different set of pushrods from stock for the new cam (TFS). I don't remember which set I had to use with the replacement cam when that was shorter. The machine shop set things up this time and there were roller rockers added to...

There's one other potential problem here that I'm hesitant to even acknowledge... When I built this engine the first time around, it behaved very similarly. That was eventually diagnosed as having the wrong cam - I took off the front cover and raised the body enough to sneak the cam out under...

I'll do that. There's a dongle plugged in already, but I haven't fired up forscan yet. Torque doesn't work on my new phone so I've been poking around in a different app called Car Scanner.

The injectors were sent off to be serviced and balanced while the engine was in the shop, so presumably not that. I can try to pull plugs the next time I get to the shop. Probably Thursday at lunch will be the first opportunity. That would also let me do a compression test to see if the issue...

My understanding of the CPS was that it was primarily used for fine tuning of the sequential injection timing, but that ignition events could be handled off the crank sensor. That at least mirrors my previous experiences with an out of position synchronizer. It set a code, but there was no...

A camshaft timing issue was mentioned to me separately - that's definitely a possibility. I assume the shop put the timing set in straight up, but I can't guarantee that? I didn't have the tool handy for the cam synchronizer, but my understanding was that you could bring the engine to TDC...

Now that the (2nd) rebuilt 5.0 is in the truck (my '99 Ranger) and everything is connected, I was excited to fire it up again last week. Unfortunately, it idles like hot garbage and I'm struggling to nail down what's going on. If anybody wants to help solve the puzzle, here's what I know: It's...

Kind of mind blowing that it leaked enough charge for a noticeable decrease in cooling within a week but they couldn't find it with dye.

Thanks! I should be able to get a good look at it tomorrow and try that adjustment as well as seeing how long the arm is.

Have you run into any that wouldn't shift properly? I'm wondering if I've got something wrong with the linkage on my '99 Ranger. I can move the shifter at the case and it's very firm but does move properly. But the linkage itself is not smooth at all.

Does anybody have info on the linkage adjustment procedure for the 4406? I think something must be out of whack on mine - all the pieces move smoothly but the entire assembly doesn't shift cleanly at all.

Given that I've got nearly brand new Motorcraft wires that I bought before blowing the engine up a couple of years ago, they're worth giving a shot with the OBX headers before stepping up to Taylor/Magnecor?

Looks good! Any wiring, etc involved in the swap or just plug and play? I like that a lot.

I was asking about the steering wheel swap.

I assume that works on the '99 Ranger as well? That sounds like an interesting swap.

Thanks. Who's Tim?

Two quick questions... 1) Can you install the engine with the upper intake attached? I've never tried, but it would save quite a bit of time to have that prepped rather than doing it after bolting the engine in. 2) How do you tighten the passenger side motor mount bolts with the header in...

Thanks - I wasn't sure about bolt hole locations without having two sets of gaskets to compare. I ordered a set of the 7410G's and will follow up with the results.

I'm still frustrated sourcing header gaskets... The GT40P gaskets are different from the traditional 5.0 manifold gaskets, right? If not, I'm just overthinking it. Felpro only lists the 95954, and it doesn't appear to be anything beyond the basic manifold gasket. Rockauto shows a total of...

Do you see a part number on your current MAF?

Is there a good reason not to put a bit of copper RTV on under all circumstances (aside from the annoyance of cleaning it off the next time you have things apart)?

Thanks. I wouldn't put 'really good fitting' in a pairing with these, given that the belt sander was involved. But it should be close enough at this point.

They're the OBX headers, yes. At the end of the day they'll probably work fine, but I'm glad the engine is on a stand to sort out the fitment issues. It's mostly frustrating because they're welded together really well - it's a gorgeous set. But clearly whatever they're using to get everything...

What fuel pressure are you getting with the new pump?

And 180 is just fine (if not overly cool).

There's always the coil over conversion option. Hardly a simple adjustment though.

Ouch - that's a painful lesson to deal with.

Glad to hear that James is doing better! Take your time and focus on your family first.

This has been going on off and on for... Four years, I think? Had it running two years ago and lost the new rebuild with a thousand miles. Long story, but this one just about killed working on vehicles for me. I'd walked away from it completely until a couple of months ago.

After all this time, I'll be thoroughly content to never look at this thing again outside of oil changes.

Valve covers will clear the headers and EGR. BARELY.

Valve covers clear the rocker arms easily. I did have to expand the bolt holes slightly - they were just slightly misaligned. Nothing major. With the intake spacer, the upper clears the covers. Barely. Next stop is EGR.