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Your vibration might be from misaligned u joints. Especially on the passenger axleshaft. Easy mistake but requires removal of spindle (again) to correct.

If the hubs weren't 'turned in' (engaged, locked) then there wouldnt have been much load on the gears to heat them up. If they were turned i, you are most likely still ok. Put in fresh gear oil and consider changing it or sucking out a sample from the bottom of the diff in a couple months...

Just remember to lock BOTH hubs, even if you have a front locker. Front locker + one hub locked = new hub :-( (if you have a heavy foot). Ask me how I know.

I have run Mile Markers for 10 years, including in the picture to the left<

Jamie, if you want a collar, pm me your address. I have a few extra

Before you put the hubs back on, clean them out real good with brake cleaner or carb cleaner then pour in a little ATF and coat the internals well. Set them to draing for a while before installation

I would be tempted to eliminate the graphite washer on the back side. You still have autohubs so must not use 4x4 very much so those shafts probably get less that 5% of the vehicle mileage. More important for the shaft to stick out the correct amount to ensure the full length of the...

The issue is with the spindle bearing components and seal. Don't pry the shaft out to get the clip on. It rotates and the spindle doesn't so it will wear through. I forget the actual solution but work with the spindle seal. You might just have the graphite washer on backwards,

Wow! You are far more ambitious than me. Ive been delaying replacing rock lights.

So Rick, we were talking about the date during our run last weekend and unitedly prefer the 18th-19th for the EF run. We would head down on the 11th, arriving on the 12th. I haven't seen any other 'date' thread, have you?

https://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5153X-5-153X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B000CKN762

I posted part numbers for U joints earlier in your thread

There will be a run at Evans Creek ORV area near Mt Rainier next month but those trails are rated 2.5 and up on a scale of 5. Especially in mid-November when there might be snow. Sometime during the winter or early spring there is usually a run at Tahuya Stat forest by Belfair. I try to post...

Keep an eye on the NW Explorer forums ;North-Western Explorer Club We just got back from a run in Eastern WA but there will be more to come (if you're still interested)

You might benefit from this parts list; 1991-1994 Ford Explorer 8.8” drum and D-35 TTB Wheel bearings- Timken set37 - $10 requires 2 per side Bearing seal – Timken 4250 - $3.40 requires 1 per side Axel shaft U joints (3) - #297 - $14 - $19 requires 2 for right side, 1 for left side =3 total...

I just remembered I have a list of the part numbers; 1991-1994 Ford Explorer 8.8” drum and D-35 TTB Wheel bearings- Timken set37 - $10 requires 2 per side Bearing seal – Timken 4250 - $3.40 requires 1 per side D 35 Axel shaft U joints (3) - #297 - $14 - $19 requires 2 for right side, 1 for...

I have 371 and 297 in my parts box and they look pretty much identical. The drivers side just slides out since the pumpkin is attached to the same beam. The passenger side has 2 joints and you have to remove the pumpkin to get to the c clip to pull the inner section out so you can replace...

371 The retainer clips are inside the ears for the stub shafts whereas the retainers on the drive shafts are on the outside

Yes, 6.5mm 12 point. Turn the wheel all the way to lock for better access

There are 2 bolts for the ABS. One for the sensor and one fro the protection block. The sensor bolt is 10MM the other one is like 6.5mm. Both need to be removed before you can take the spindle off the knuckle and get to the axle stub shafts.

Wait, did you remove the ABS sensor and protection block? That may be holding it on. One of those little bolts is like 6.5MM. A weird size.

I know the aera well. I was born in Ilwaco. You may have to use something harder than a rubber mallet, thats why i suggest putting the bearing nut on.

If it still won't budge, put the rotor back on and bolt up a wheel to get more leverage.

No place to pry. Thread the bearing nut on and tap it all the way around many revolutions. It won't move much. Heat might help a little. 'By the River' is that Long Beach/Ilwaco, West Port, Ocean Shores?

Where in Washington are you?

That's the spindle. Put a nut on the outer threaded part (so you don't bugger up the threads) and tap/hit on it from all angles. The spindle bearing on the back side might be seized to the axle stub shaft meaning you will have to try to pry out the outer axle stub shaft with the spindle. The...

The passenger side inner shaft is held into the diff by a 'C' clip inside the diff. You have to pull the diff off the beam to get to it. Once it is removed there are several 'C' clip eliminator solutions. Just search for that on the forum. Unless you're talking about the spindle bearing? I have...

First gen's don't have double cardan rear drive shafts

Where did the replacement steering box come from? There is a pre-load screw on the top of the box with a lock nut. It sound like there is too much pre-load in an attempt to compensate for steering slop.

Also check pinion angle. 2" lift shouldn't change it but it may not have been correct to begin with. The pinion needs to be parallel to the output shaft of the transfer case. You can get leaf spring shims to adjust the angle. Where in Washington?

Maybe Longmire Meadows? 47.027413 x -121.154101

Trying to keep this thought alive. Bueller? Bueller?? Bueller???

So what about the 11th through the 26th?

I'm seeing a fair amount of interest in the Oct 13th weekend (at least it's not a Friday the 13th). We haven;t been to the Manastash trail system for quite a while so thinking about camping near Crow Creek.

OK, trying to get some traction on this topic that we discussed briefly on the Labor Day run so others in the NW can see it, chime in and participate (instead of coordinating via txt messaging. Evans Creek was mentioned (txt) but there isn't really any camping there. Liberty was also...

Hmm, pretty dead thread. Is no one form the NW, going to Moab next year??? (besides Joe)????

Why don't you send the oil in for analysis instead of simple visual inspection?

Uh, haven't we talked about this on various camping trips and runs? Mid to late May was the discussion. Remember, Dwight needs to request vacation a year in advance. (starting the dialog)

Pull your old shift motor sensor apart and tell us if it is a sealed unit or you can open it and see a post that used to have a clear 'bumper' on it. That is usually what gets hard and breaks causing misalignment of the sensor. Then you can look for a urethane replacement bumper, put it back...